Basically, I've fitted a MK1 Focus TDCI MTX75 into my MK5 RS2000. The car has a bias pedal box, so I need a suitable master cylinder that will work with the cylinder in the box.

Does anyone know what size the slave cylinder is, or could advise what cylinder to use at the pedal end? What is the standard Focus set-up like?

 

I would look at the reyland type master sizes. I think 0.65 as a try but be prepared to experiment. Type in tilton UK in to google, the guy at competition supplies is really good on this stuff.

 

.700 works well with the mtx75

 

I was about to say a 0.7 although I have just ripped my hydraulic conversion off my cossie probably the worse idea I had fitting that shite to the car lol . Back on a GGR groupa peddle now ok the clutch is heavier but it is so much more reliable lol

 

I think tilton slave is the way to go...what were you using? Centre push or clutch arm?

 

I'm going to use a rayland set up on mine centre push when he said on the phone it was on his escort with 0 issues it had me sold lol

 

Side push and tilt on is the only centre push to use are the tilton ones pug ones are used by everyone else and they are bad . The tilton ones are lifted though normally change them after 30 hours use as they go a bit weak but never had one fail . I am happy with the cable it's not worth the expense imo

 

Jay what was so bad about it?mines really light but very little feel and bites near the top is there any way of adjusting the bite point?

 

Very little feel the rod ratios are all wrong so as you say the bite point is a massive fuck to set up
then even buying oem items not powerfull enough so the slave would only last 500 miles if I'm lucky so a it became just such headache and like a knocked up bodge I just ripped it all off and chucked it in the bin Jeff . With a cable you can get the bite just right you have clutch feel and the downside its heavy but it works and I am not thinking every time I go on a journey I'm not thinking it going to pack up lol .

Tbh just the biting point and the no feel already put me off without the reliability issues mate

 

I think you have been unlucky with the set-up on yours, I have got the Reyland one and there was some experimenting to get the length of the push rod just right but its the best thing I have done to my 2wd Sapphire in 21 years. I have a 6 paddle clutch and with the standard set-up it was awful,heavy, no feel and with only less than an inch between it being engaged or disengaged. In slow moving traffic it was a nightmare.
It is now light, plenty of feel and control and just in my opinion 100% better.
It was done 18 months ago and I have had no problems at all.
Mine was installed by Richard and Malcolm at Tremona Garage in Southampton and their attention to detail to get it right is what has made mine reliable.

 

Mate I work building race cars for years have plenty of knowledge and seen a good few of these conversions over the years and believe me they are all like how Jeff and I have described and if I thought it was just me then I would persevered with it !

 

Interesting on the life of the tilton...I don't want to be pulling it out after 30 hrs of road use although that is about 120 years use or more if I base it on how many miles my pug has done since I owned it. I think I am close to 1000 miles in nearly 3 yrs! DOH!

 

I'm sure it will be fine Toby if you think a race car will get very hot and will have a lot harder use in 30 hours or so than your road car will see in a year of regular use lol

 

Oi you lot, this isn't a Cossie discussion

Is that with the standard slave cylinder in the box? Fortunately I think I have a .700 somewhere. Unfortunately my pedal box uses the short AP cylinders with the offset bolt lugs so don't want to do too much experimenting, they're not the cheapest things ever!

 

Yes mate , the only problems I've ever had with converting to hydraulic is using cheap cylinders they always end up leaking .i only use girling cylinders in my kits and never had one fail yet

 

Sorry about the discussion about the superior Cossie stuff lol.

If I was using AP masters then I would go for AP slaves and ask AP for some direction on the size. Expensive experiment but they would work better, probably give a lighter pedal and last longer with no leaks.

 

I am not doubting your skill to install the set-up but I can only tell you how its been for me. So far so good.

 

I really don't know now weather or not to go hydraulic or not after reading this... :
Only recently thought I'd better go hydro but have read reliability issues???

Is it best to stick with girling or AP slaver and masters then ???

What's the reyland kits ???

 

All modern cars use hydraulic because the effort is less on the leg and it IS better, just don't try to do it cheap and do it right.

 

I'd rather spend a little more and it work and be reliable...
Thing is if u go centre push reyland and u have an issue at box end its a box out job .... !!!

Reyland side push u could adjust/adapt without a box removal... HELP !!!

 

Thanks mate, I'll give it a go. As i say, the Grp A pedal box in my car forces the use of the short AP cylinders, so I'm pretty well forced into using decent quality parts, which is no bad thing.

I'll try out the .700 and see how it goes.

 

Hello mate, I thought you was going side push?.. Thought I saw some post pictures up on here.. I maybe wrong I was talking to sonic boom (Richard) off here recently and he had a reyland centre push that only gave trouble. However it was brought second hand off here !...
He went reyland side push after that it was as good as gold


Are you on side or centre push ?

 

I was going to but after mocking it up the slave was about a fag paper away from the gearbox tunnel lol. And I'm not denting the tunnel in. Plus I've been told the clutch I'm going to use is better suited to a centre push. Plus looking at the set ups matin and rod run with out fault it's a better way to do it

 

Are you going to use sintered 7.25 clutch

 

I've a 7.25 helix I think. It's at marks I've not looked at it yet same clutch rod runs I'm told

 

I have an after market group 4 tunnel in my mk1 escort, I wonder how close the reyland side push would be to that...

 

I dare say it will be fine give him a bell and ask he knows his stuff. Lots of people use that kit

 

Centre push. The only thing That took a bit of experimenting with was the length of the push rod. That has to be spot on or you may get the clutch slipping or dragging. Once that was sorted its been 100% reliable. Whoever is installing it will sort it all out. The rod that comes with the kit from Reyland may be spot on for your set up and wont need any modifying.
I know there has been some people saying they dont like the hydraulic clutch conversion but I can only say from my experience its been one of the best things I have done.I have the Helix 6 paddle clutch and it is very light and controllable.

 

Do you know the clamp pressure on your helix??

Do you know the clamp pressure on your single plate??.. Did you buy your helix clutch from reyland cosy nut ?

 

I am not sure what the clamp pressure is on the Helix 6 paddle clutch which I got from Reyland but it handles the 450 bhp with no problems.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1300gt
I have an after market group 4 tunnel in my mk1 escort, I wonder how close the reyland side push would be to that...



Any people out their using this type of kit with that type of gearbox tunnel?

I'm trying to gauge if it's likely to clear that's all ?? ... Also when it comes to removing and fitting the box .. ?? :