JOHNS7SPOKE

HI everyone!

I have owned my beloved Xr2i for around a year now, and a few months ago after 6 months of (cough cough) almost problem free driving it conked out on me!

It does not want to start and when it does, misfire's terribly.. i can just about stop it from cutting out by taping on the accelerator...But the more i seem to press the accelerator the more the revs drop???
If I take the vacume pipe off the top of the EFI unit it will idle on its own at about 1,500rpm but still has no power...

Its got to the point where ive been soo peed off and tried eveything, i decided to rebuilt the whole engine,
The engine has been fully rebuilt, with all the gaskets, everything cleaned etc..im a 100% sure its nothing machanical, and i have a good spark alround...so the only thing i can think of is its electrical or one of the sensors (most of which i have replaced)
please any one with any ideas, or sequence i can go through to pin point the problem 'I will send you beer in the post!!!'

John.

tabetha

It certainly would seem fuel related, check the fuel rail pressure, and I would renew the CTS, ideally these should be done every so often anyway, not overly familiar with your set up, but I would also look at MAF, or map(which ever it has) sensor wiring etc.
The main corrective factor for the CO is the CTS.
tabetha

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Check CTS also how old is fuel filter?

Martin

JOHNS7SPOKE

Cheers for the help lads...
So far ive taken out the fuel rail, and tested that, fuel seemed to be coming out fine, but then another bloke sed turning the engine over well the injecters are out wont prove anything because there not under preasure... so i swapped the fuel pressure reg anyway, seemed exactly the same...

The vacume pipe coming off the top of the EFI unit goes straight into the MAP sensor.. and when i pop the hose off the engine seems to get the air it needs and runs fine (apart from lack of power).. I changed the MAP sensor but still no luck!

I baught a new dizzy pack, all the leads and plugs are good, with sparks all round..

Ive taken the Idle control valve apart and cleaned that...

What does the CTS stand for (sorry if im being dumb?)

Also would the thottle body sensor have anything to do with it? can i take that apart and clean it???

Cheers John

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If you pull vac pipe off MAP it will run richer. Fuel rail in or out will have no effect injectors either are pulsing or there not.

CTS= Coolant Temperature Sensor and will be situated in head this is one of the most important sensors, as it controls the base level of fuel injected from freezing to boiling and is also is responsible for correcting the CO. They can go out of calibration after so long as well, only thing is to replace it.

TPS is basically a resistor which is alters with the position of throttle, some have a switch as built in as well, and can be adjusted normally, I would think if this was out you would have more problems then you have.

Do you know what ECU you have, could try getting some diags from it?

Martin

JOHNS7SPOKE

Hi Mart
All the injectors are clean and fuel pulses out when i turn the engine over...

I will have a look at the CTS sensor tomo... is there anyway of checking it? or shall i just replace anyway? The car does smell quite rich when i do get it to start...

I can get the serial number off the ECU tomo as well, i have changed it before as i took out a clifford alarm and it needed replacing...Not sure if it is standard or not???

JOHNS7SPOKE

Cheers John

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

had a VERY similar problem with mine mate,take off the fuel return pipe on the bottom of the regulator and crank it and see how much if any fuel is returning to the fuel tank, at a guess very little or none?! another thing to try would be spraying carb cleaner/easy start in the throttle body when cranking and to see if it trys to at least fire up better.

On my old 2i it was something very simple!! Basically on the fuel pump theres a fuel pump damper that joins the pump to the metal oulet pipe, that has a rubber seal both ends and on mine 1 end had split which caused the pressure to drop to the point it was not getting enough fuel, but it took me ages to find out as when i disconnected certain sensors and pumped the throttle etc it would try and fire up/rev for a bit then stall etc!!

So basically checking this first will at least eliminate a fueling problem which im guessing it might be!! either the pump or the damper causing the problem.

T3ORA

iTrader: (1)

i was just about to write the same reply

i had the same problem on a rs1800

JOHNS7SPOKE

What do you call a man with no legs!

Alright buddy, just got some easy start and she started straight away, that stuff is officially my new favorite stuff!

Took the return pipe off the fuel REG and there is nothing at all.... not even a dribble...

So you think it could be the seals on the pump?? And got any tips or problems with changing them?

cheers John

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

either the fuel pump damper seals or pump mate then by the sounds of it!! ur problem is the same as mine was, fuel starvation especially if its not returning to the fuel tank, should literally be pissing out of there back to the tank if its not turning over properly.

Before u go buying a new pump get the tank off and have a look at whats going on, u should see if the damper seals have a split anywhere. Its literally a plastic thing with 2 seals both ends, the seals are part of it so u have to replace the whole damper.
Theres no real easy way to check before taking the tank off unfortunatly!! A quick test before u go buying a new damper is just use a peice of pipe to join the pump to the metal outlet pipe and then trying the car and see if it runs. You may even be able to get away with just a fuel pipe connecting the 2 and no damper?! i was going to chance it but decided to just buy a new pump damper instead!! but dont hold me to that

Least then if it fires up and holds good pressure then u know it was the damper and not the pump or visa versa

Shame u didnt post this a few months back as i scrapped my old 2i with the tank/pump damper etc still in it

JOHNS7SPOKE

Hi again mate...

Had the car turned up side down this weekend....
Had it up on axle stands, took the fuel tank out and cleaned everything replaced any 6mm fuel pipe replaced all the clips etc... even had my uncle round to blow through the feed and return pipes with his compressor....Replaced the Fuel filter... and all back in with no leaks...

Still no luck! So i called my mate who worx at Ford and he popped round.. checked everything id done, plus voltage/Earth on all the sensors and pump...

We managed to get the car started without any problems but as soon as i put my foot on the accelerator it just wanted to cut out, because of fuel starvation ...

He sed the only thing it can be now is the actual Fuel pump.. even tho its working and has good voltage etc the pump mite not be giving out the needed power to pump the fuel round through the feed and back round to the return pipe! ''As it is the original and 20 years old''...

Getting a second hand job from the scrappy next week hopefully and ill let you no how i get on!

John

Toe Knee

iTrader: (2)

Yea but did u remove the pump/sender from the tank itself?! and checked the turbo damper that connects the pump to the metal outlet pipe on the tank?! U havnt said anything about doing/checking that?! The damper isnt a fuel pipe its a plastic thing with a metal disc on it that looks like this inside the tank......

Could well be the pump but mine was the same and could get it started the same as u but as soon as i put my foot down the extra load from the pump caused the fuel to pass the split in the damper seal and lost pressure causing it to stall!!




If u have DEFINATELY checked this and its ok or tryed removing it and using a piece of pipe instead and it still dont run then deff get another pump to try but no point unless u have done either of the 2 as if it is the damper seals broken then fitting another pump wont cure it!