Caddyshack

I might have to try one of thos arb kits as would give me better ground clearance the way that fits, I wonder if I could get it to mate up to the 205 chassis without too much fabrication.

ajamesc

Talk to mk I'm sure it wouldn't be to hard for him to sort something guessing he may need the car though

Caddyshack

Thanks

He is a long way from me but once the car is mot'd I could drive it up there or even stick it on a trailer, if I can move my roll bar then I can tidy the exhaust as it has a big cut out to loop around the anti roll bar and it catches on speed humps sometimes. I could probably get him to resell the pipe whilst there.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cool as fook that matey.

adamski frst

James can't see from the pics but you should have a spacers either side as per earlier pics so: bolt-rosejoint-spacer-arm... Then other side spacer-nut...

ajamesc

Which bit do you mean mate. The suspension looks a little funny in them pics as the weight is not on the car. Each rose joint dose have a little spacer iver side. But not too sure which way the blades face some say up some say down

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

That's a nice looking kit!

The rose joint on the bottom of the ARB droplink seems to be at its outer position. I think if you would put the car on its wheels the rose joint would need to rotate even further, but is that possible?

ajamesc

As in the bolt for the drop link to the roll bar? All the rise joints do have a spacer iver side I think it looks odd due to camera angle and it hanging

ajamesc

I think as the weight is put on the car the compression strut will move the lower arm forward as it all moves inton its position with weight on it. The roll bar is mounted 200mm from the first cross member bolt as mk said. Plus it's all out of adjustment as it sits mate.

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

You're right in that the compression strut pushes the tca forward when the suspension is loaded up, I forgot that. I was thinking that the arb rotates away if the suspension is loaded up. But the effect of the compression strut should be bigger, so indeed it shouldn't be a problem.

ajamesc

I did my self think the same mate. Once the wheels are back on and it's all adjusted properly I'll see how it looks

adamski frst

Took this just for you lol

ajamesc

I see what you mean now. Mine has one of them spacers iver side of the rose joint? I can't see why you would have one behind the nut? Did MK say that's how they go mate

Caddyshack

The way they work on model cars is you have the spacer either side of the ball joint, not behind the nut. The spacers would stop the edges of the outer part of the ball joint binding.

I would also say the spacers are reversed in that pic if one side is smaller than the other, the smaller part would butt up against the ball and the large side against the arm and then the cap head...I cannot see why it wouldn't be the same on the Cossie.

ajamesc

I have one iver side of the rose joint. Thinner side faceing in I thought they went like that to allow full movement of the joint with out touching anything

ajamesc

Do your blades face up or side ways

Caddyshack

Yes that is exactly how it should be in my mind

adamski frst

You say that but the other end of the drop link fits on the blade direct with a bolt.... I was told this is how it's mounted.... However it's totally upto you. I'm sure it makes not much difference but with just a nut the other side surely it won't sit right with the slight recess... The genuine arms didn't have the recess if I remember correct the genuine ones I have are off being reanodised.

ajamesc

On a saff I don't think you would get a spacer then the nut in there with out it hitting the compression strut. There's very little room with the angle the strut sits at in relation to the arm

MK MOTORSPORT

iTrader: (1)

they have to have the recess as hole is not 90 degrees to arm

adamski frst

What's the correct way mark? , Ben told me he did his the way I said?

Caddyshack

I think my car will need some fabrication to get the mounts on for the roll bar as i have odd angles where the Sierra legs meet the 205 body, I will post a pic, MK thinks it will be fine.

ajamesc

Next time I take mine to work to fit my engine I'll line it all up on the ramp so the drop links sit right and weld the mounts on

Caddyshack

I guess I will need some fabrication here to make the mounts fit square?

Caddyshack

I am not 100% convinced there is enough room when the bar goes through, it is a lot of money to spend if it doesn't fit, I guess the safest way is to take the car to MK on the basis that if they fit then I buy them, the benefit of this is he can prob do my beam at same time, the problem being that it would cost me Ł200 each way to transport the car.

Caddyshack

Mine arrived yesterday but without the bits shown in the pic below, I will have to wait for Mark to come back off holiday to bolt them up now

ajamesc

O dear not good that's the worse nice new bits you can't fit I bet that's doing your head in! I've not looked at mine for ages now. Next stage with mine needs to be getting my engine and moving the car to my work so I can fit it all back together minus the turbo and exhaust system

Caddyshack

How close is your engine to being finished?

ajamesc

Not sure mate marks a very busy man and I think there flat out with rods at the mo. All the big bits are there it just needs putting together. I'm happy to wait I want it done right

Caddyshack

One of the reasons I am toying with an alloy block or other block is so that the majority of the engine can be built up whilst mine is still running....as long as nothing lets go like yours did on the road.

ajamesc

Popped in to see mark in the week had a chat and a nosey about. See my crank done block all done heads done bar doing the shims for the lifters should hopefully be able to get an engine in the old girl in a few months if all go's to plan. Picked up some bits this morning from rod as well.

Exhaust manifold just need to send it off for coating been meaning to pick it up for a while but been busy





The fuel pump I'll be using to fuel it it's rods old one so more than enough to fuel mine adequately.

costina

iTrader: (1)

Won't be long now Andy

ajamesc

Slow project but it's not going anywhere. My list in my head is engine in sort centre push clutch box in wire battery from boot to engine bay. Replace wire from alternator to battery fit digi dash. Turbo exhaust system get running new alarm mount front roll bar drive it lol

Caddyshack

I had tilton centre push and I much prefer the hydraulic on the arm for feel and lightness plus you can get at the slave without dropping the box

ajamesc

I mounted a slave to my box put my damaged block in and re fitted the box the slave was so close to the tunnel it's not good in my opinion. Think I'm going to go with a rayland one once I can get the block to clutch fingers measurement

Caddyshack

The reyland centre push is a very cheap one and low quality high production item imo, nothing against reyland as it is a lot of manufacturer parts built to a cost. I did try one on mine but didn't like that one bit.

ajamesc

What did you find up with it? I was thinking rayland as he has done many of them and knows what he's doing so I just have to supply my nose cone and a measurement and I get the bearing back ready to fit. Who did you get yours off if you don't mind me asking mate

Rod-Tarry

Mine was also better side push. Don't think I can get the kit now as mines a Tremec .

Caddyshack

I bought the reyland kit, just didn't like the quality of the centre push. Then I used a tilton but now I have side push with reyland slave and master, it is as light as my mums polo and I run a paddle and high clamp helix cover, all reyland supplied.

ajamesc

not done much on this old girl but I did get a heat shield for the alternator. Tip from rod it's off an Audi 100.