Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Winner gets a prize for guess how many pallets



Who needs fords hey


Well heres the 90 in question. Didnt quite fit in the workshop


does now



First remove bonnet


Right the 90 has come with the following symptoms:

Massive oil leak...everywhere


Owner has installed an oil guage.
He said

cold idle 3 bar
warm idle 1.7
crusing 2 bar

I have pretty much dismissed worn engine, compression testing has confirmed this with
bore 1 = 217.5 psi
bore2 = 219 psi
bore 3 = 217 psi
bore 4 = 215.7 psi

My diagnosis is very poor...no.... shite oil. looks about 3 years old!!!! aNd a faulty oil pressure guage, its a cheapo after market affair, and ive told him its going in the bin wether he likes it or not.

The oil leak looks like head gasket failure which is about right/due at 150k anyway.


Its been loosing water, owner reckons its head gasket but I am 99.5% sure water loss is nothing to do with head gasket. Due to no abmormal presurising, no contamination in the water and no white smoke.

After a good drive and a few 1/4 sprints the temps were well up and running normal pressure, it was obvious where the leak was...on the header tank!!! A well known item to fail. mines on its 3rd!

Also found thermo return pipe rubbing on bracktet and close to aux belt, about to pop at any time!


Also the main concern is massive lack of power. not dont laugh, anyone who has driven one of these will know they are a lot quicker than you think. They are perfect for baiting keen saxo drivers at trafic lights!

The turbo vacum pipe which actuates the pitch of the fuel mixture rod is again rubbing, im sure there is a pin hole here resulting in poor fuel delivery on turbo boost. Also its rubbing on the fuel pipe which again will need replacing


My main diagnosis for poor performance is who ever did the last cambelt has got the camshaft a tooth out. It still runs but just drops of at the top end, when it should be pulling hard.


It definatly has had some fiddling. Landrover put a warning out several times on the 300tdi. The fuel pump is about 100thou" out of square, resulting in premature belt wear.

Many landys are simply upgraded to landrovers first "recall" buy simply shimming the pump. But this one has had landrovers 3rd yes 3rd recall when they finally got round to designing a new housing and pump.

You can tell this buy the yellow paint tabs. meaning its all been changed including the fuel pump its self and the crankchaft pully will have been ungraded to one with guide lips.


My guess is the valve timing is a tooth out and more importantly the fuel mixture is way too lean. On full throttle there is not a hint of black smoke at all. believe me a properly set up pump should chuck out black smoke on hard throttle. even landrover state this.


Grille off


nice intercooler


theres a lot of shit around the intercooler, I also suspect a broken/split pipe.


AUX's out



Remove aux belt, viscus fan (left hand thread!) and pulley


Aux belt is creamed


12 pc Timing kit, can be done with out it, but its a life saver when working buy your self. And gives full peace of mind when changine the belt.


flywheel and fuel pump pegs


Remove wading plug


fit flywheel timing peg to locate TDC


remove fuel sprocket cover


Fuel pin will only line up (if timing is correct) at TDC, about 110'clock.
If its doesnt your 180 out.


Remove cam cover bolts, ive numbered mine to save time as they are all different lengths





Fill intercooler with degreaser over night

tonytantrum

top project i love defenders! how do you remove the crankshaft bolt? i wont tell you how are mechanic does it!

YOREVOL

Are you in the right place?

Hman205

inspiring as ever Lee sure it will be a great runner when your done

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Landrover sell a special tool which is about Ł145

So I have fabricated my own one. There are 4 threaded holes on the damper/crank pulley which are used to attach the damper puller when you remove the pulley from the shaft.

It is bsically a big spanner with 4 holes in and I screw the spanner to the pulley = locking it against the chassis rail.

No please do tell. With the 300tdi this really is the only way, as the torque setting on the bolt is FT.

Nothing else will do

In gear
locking the flywheel
locking the fuel pump/cam belt

Only way is to use the bolted spanner on a 300!

Well lets hope so. The customer is from the South of France (10km from the spanish boarder) in the Pyrennes.

So its got a fair way to travel to get back home

tonytantrum

ive seen a mechanic struggle like hell with a power bar getting the bolt out! one other mechanic locks the powerbar on to the chassis rail and cranks the engine over! it does undo but it seams really dodgy to me! if a jobs got to be done its got to be done right! good luck ill be watching your projects with interest!

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Well as said they are FT, and also loctited and you have the crankshaft which moves. Id say they are as tight as 2wd cossie front hubs which is FFFT

Your mate tho, Thats pure cowboy

If the belt slips or worse brakes (which is highly likley as thats the reason its been replaced) then its engine rebuild time
Not to mention a potentially 100mph wrench flying across to you head or the windscreen


And also for me part of the diagnosis/reason for the work is the engine is majorly lacking power. So if the belt does slip then you have no way of knowing if the timing was out before you started, as i suspect this 300tdi is!

As said some things just need to be right. I have to admit as we all have in the past done stupid things in the past and cut corners back in the early days (i started restoring cars at 10!!) But it really is false economy, only safe way to do it is, do it right, do it once, put the bill in and everyones happy.

Drizz

following this

JEEMO

my mate seems to love working on LandRovers! Looking at that its not a job I would like to do although must feel really satisfying when you have built it all back up.

Drizz

i have one and its addictive!

muz

Brothers just bought a landy 90. I'll be watching this. It's on a shortened Range Rover chassis with a V8.

Twins

iTrader: (18)

Cracking write up

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Right some bloody gorilla has been in here before and been swingin of every nut and bolt with a wrench. Not to mention not greasing anything

Finally got the crankshaft bolt off. FT is un understatment


Using the puller to remove the pulley



Rag on top as its FT


pulley off


Cover off, there not much shite in side so the reworked/recall noe casing has solved the allingment job. A lot of oil at the bottom tho, coming from the crank shaft oil seal




Some idiot never greased up the pulleys, and the woodroughs have rusted them self in. Sod to get out




I was RIGHT ...can you spot it


now?


now? camshaft is a tooth out as perdicted


Belt is marked up with tipex to be extra safe, and locking pins are in fuel pump and flywheel.

Idler and tensioner removed


Belt removed, and marked just in case


Using the pulley puller and adapted it using m5 bolts to pull the crank gear


Now the crank gear is the original one and should have been changed when the new altered housing was fitted and the belt last changed

The altered housing should be run with the new altered gear pulley. Why some one would go to all the effort of changing the case (Ł300's worth) and not bother to change the pulley is a mystery, as it comes with the kit anyway

The crank gear removed. Looks like this one was caught just in time. Sorry for the poor pic but hopefully you can make out where the wood rough key has worn its way almost a "tooth out" into the original pulley groove

Oh dear
Right some bloody gorilla has been in here before and been swingin of every nut and bolt with a wrench. Not to mention not greasing anything

Finally got the crankshaft bolt off. FT is un understatment


Using the puller to remove the pulley



Rag on top as its FT


pulley off


Cover off, there not much shite in side so the reworked/recall noe casing has solved the allingment job. A lot of oil at the bottom tho, coming from the crank shaft oil seal




Some idiot never greased up the pulleys, and the woodroughs have rusted them self in. Sod to get out




I was RIGHT ...can you spot it


now?


now? camshaft is a tooth out as perdicted


Belt is marked up with tipex to be extra safe, and locking pins are in fuel pump and flywheel.

Idler and tensioner removed


Belt removed, and marked just in case


Using the pulley puller and adapted it using m5 bolts to pull the crank gear


Now the crank gear is the original one and should have been changed when the new altered housing was fitted and the belt last changed

The altered housing should be run with the new altered gear pulley. Why some one would go to all the effort of changing the case (Ł300's worth) and not bother to change the pulley is a mystery, as it comes with the kit anyway

The crank gear removed. Looks like this one was caught just in time. Sorry for the poor pic but hopefully you can make out where the wood rough key has worn its way almost a "tooth out" into the original pulley groove

Oh dear



Anyway at least Im on the case now before its TOO late

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

good work there mate .

tonytantrum

all he does is marks the pulleys with paint! i thought it was not the correct way always seemed abit cowboy like!
ive always said theres only one way to do a job and thats right first time if you cut corners it will bite you later on!
excelent thread again and im watching it with interest!

tpaul

Hi Lee
excellent work again mate, must have been fun getting that pulley off as the shaft was totally dry, hard work.
Cracking thread though
Well done
Paul

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Yeh I paint mine too, but only for if it all goes wrong/loose concentration I can go back to the belt and start again.

Theoretically paint marks can be used, but belts do stretch, and if the timing is out (as this landrover is) to start with then with out TDC you have no way of ever knowing if its right.

Send an email to rogue traders

Understatment mate I fannied around for hours trying to get the pulley and crank gear off with out damaging them. (damper pulley Ł200 gear pulley Ł100ish) only to find they were fucked to bits on the inside where the woodrough key was soooo rusted it had cut its own groove into the pulley

It was litterally rust and the FT bolt holding the timing in place

Just wish the bloody timing kit would turn up sitting here waiting. I may even have to get the beetle out.

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Degrease Case


Clean shaft, check for burrs etc




Remove crankshaft oil seal


new seal


Using old gear to drive seal home


These pulley mounts have to be spotless


New and old woodroughs


Grease up shaft and fit new o ring


Hammer in woodroughs, damp blow with rag



Timing belt kit, note im using all Genuine landrover stuff, its really the only way to be safe with these.



The old and new crank gear (note the new gear is modified with shoulders)


Look how worn the old gear was inside


Using old gear to drive new gear home


Tweaking the timing, as the camshaft was a tooth out



Fit belt


and mark it, and tension pulley/idler


These three bolts can be loosened to get the fuel pump timing spot on


fit damper pulley and tighten nut and turn over buy hand


If happy run engine for 1 minuite


some muppet also reused the old gasket and silicone



cleaned


old outer oil seal

new




pulley dated


cover and pulley back on


high strength thread lock


Lock crankshaft and to bolt up to FT lb/ft


Leaking intercooler hose


new hose


rad in, then run engine with intercooler to inlet manifold of. put rag on intercooler and boost up the turbo to blow out any degreaser which may still be in side from cleaning.



All fitted except for water hoses and aux belt, as head gasket is next

clarke5700

kooooool lol

clarke5700

o yea was also going to say we look after one of thease at work and they do go VERY well for what they are . i had to remove the engine to change the clutch as i didend fancy putting it on the 2 post ramp and could not be assed to be rolling around on the ground trying to get the box out lol

Hezz

comprehensive as normal

katluke

Interesting thread . Look forward to the rest.

TimC

iTrader: (1)

Doing well Lee.
There is a guy up here I used to work for who is mad about landrovers at the mo. Hes on LandyZone I think if your on that forum.

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Bonnet off again, time for head gasket


disconnect fuel pump relay


remove oil breather and undo injectors




remove glow plug wires and water temp sensor



Remove boost top pipe, thermo to pump pipe, heater matrix pipes.


Undo rear engine lift ring to remove plug and pipe bracket


Remove water bar



Remove turbo heat shield



Remove inlet manifold


Remove exhaust manifold- you need to also remove the studs to get the head off with out removing the exhaust from the vehicle


use a mirror to detect lower nuts as there is no way t see them, or get your hand in to feel



Rocker cover off


rocker shaft off


remove push rods


Remove head bolts (you will need an extra long breaker bar as they as FFFT) Lay out all components in order!!!!

Even though the head bolts are to be thrown away, I still lay them out for refference as there are 3 different sizes and lengths!


Head should now simply lift off, be aware there are 2 dowels in the head to it may need a little nudge to free it. Its as light as a feather, so lift straight up to avoid scoring the block. place on a piece of clean well packed cardboard to avoid head damage




Well here are the problems, again as I predicted
very slight blow between 2-3 most likley incorrect torque procedure last time round.


The major issue was this - Blowing past 4 and into the oil way, which was atomising oil in the oil way, returning to the sump and finding its way in the oil breather system, which caused the symptom of having oil haze/smoke puffing out of the oil filler cap when removed and also then being drawn into the air breather and ultimatly in to the intake system. Basically reducing performance further more



The head is not in to bad a shape, considering some horror stories. Luckily this one was pressurising the oil way and not the water. it could have been a whole different story then. If these ally landy head get Too hot the ally goes soft and you can litterally dig your finger nail into it



Glow plugs and injectors removed to get better access to cleaning


After a througher clean and a basicl steel rule/feeler guage check the head seems fine, so no need for a skim. (landy heads have very little metal for skinimg so it really is a last resort on these)
Valves are all good as they were tested at the start with the compression /leak down testing during diagnosis


fit the injectors and glow plugs back in (in this case im using new items)


tip - use a dab of grease to stick the washer to the injector to stop if falling off when installing!


clean the block also, and use an airline to clear the stud holes of any water/oil/dirt


finally go over both block and head with degreaser/thinners to get it ultra clean


More expensive genuine goodness


This is the "3 tab" gasket the thickest of 3 that landy offer, the tollerences are so tight its always best to use this one. its also the multi layer steel type which is the better option on these engines due to the humongus 230 psi compressions



gasket on


head on and lightly oil the new head bolts



Torque the bolts to 40nm (29.5 lb/ft) using the correct sequence (center out) then mark the bolts on the 'knuckle'


Now tighten 60 degrees - anyone who went to school will now see that this is one knuckle on the bolt! This removes the need for a guage dial.

Also marking the nuts is important incase you loose your thought track and eliminates missing a bolt


You are now supposed to wait 5 mins before more torquing but due to being out side and it being cold im waiting 30 mins.
Id advise this anyway to let the bolts stretch and settle, its also the pefrect ammount of time to get everything back on to rebuild the head

I start on the head internals then 'fuel' side


then the 'turbo' side


Once built back up (except rocker cover)

Tighten all bolts a further 60 degrees - so thats 2 knuclels clockwise from start position

Then tighten the center bolts a further 20 degrees (1/3) of a knuckle turn.


Next its time to check the valve clearances

Weaver

Hi Lee, Excellent thread as always

Did you get the Landy running again? How did she go if you did?

I haven't worked on one for a while. Well since my Dad got of his Landys which was a few years back. I have still got a very soft spot for them. Fantastic vehicles, it's just a shame that they are finally going to stop making them soon

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Yes running, i have more updates just not had time yet.

Its like a completly different vehicle, feels like a new engine. Marked improvment on previous performance.

Im currently removing the gear box to do a clutch change.

Finally come to a decision on mine (the dark grey one at start of thread). Im putting her up for sale. Been taking pics today, so expect a for sale thread soon. Its a tough decision as I never thought id sell her, but It is a business vehicle for me as well. Im now running two businesses, so if I want to develop sadly the landy has to go, as I will be making several trips to eastern europe and also need a larger load area.

jonny s2

iTrader: (12)

just where do you find the time lee, great read as always

Weaver

It is always nice when you transform a vehicle with the work you have done to it. you should be used to that feeling by now

I look forward to seeing the pictures Lee.

It's a shame about having to sell your trusted old Landy. Still needs must and it's a good reason to have to sell it. Have you considered buying a 130 wheelbase chassis cab and fabricating your own body for it? You could still have a Land Rover and have the extra carrying capacity.

Zetecfiesta

excellent stuff as always lee!

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Top work as usual.Did you get many people phoning you since you put your phone number in Fast ford.

Drizz

The Landy's going

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Im self employed, Im run a building and landscape business. And now I have a second business restoring cars. After the intrest I got restoring the 1949 beetle and Aston Martin DBS (both 40k+ cars now) I realised I could make it into a second business.

Ive been restoring cars since I was 8, my first a 1950 international tractor for Ł50, which was then bought for a lot of money buy a tractor museum in scotland. That paid for my first beetle restoration. Think ive restored about 25 cars? Its what I love doing.

Yeh my mate was selling one, a 130 crew cab hi cap and also a 150 single cap flat bed!!! He drove them to spain every week, so they are reliable enough, but if im honest I fancy something with a bit more comfort, I am 6'4" and a landy isnt exactly roomy. especially the amount of times Ive slept in there. Spent 3 days and nights in it in the waste lands waiting to be rescued buy my old chap when my front propshaft blew up causing my gearbox to strip it self. Couldnt leave the truck as I had a fully restored mk1 escort on the trailer

Yeh ive had quite a few texts asking for restorations. Not that I need the work busy with building till new year and have these 2 beetles to finish

Weaver

I agree that a Landy isn't the most comfortable of places to spend a long period of time. I am 6'2" and I can never get the seat far enough back to get enough leg room. Then there is "Land Rover elbow" just thinking about the lack of room for your right arm makes my elbow ache

I wouldn't fancy spend three nights in truck cab Landy. I am surprised you can still walk!

Something van based is going to ideal for what you need. Or maybe larger you could go up to a light commercial based on a 7.5 ton platform. That'd give you plenty of room then.

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

Water pump


remove belt


remove water pulley and powersteering pulley (may need to keep belt on to slacken nuts







clean with out marking surface


new pump on






VALVE CLEARANCES - 0.20mm / 0.008in

rocker shaft 5nm / 3.6lb/ft +50 deg , also double check the head bolts are '2 clicks clockwise' before fitting rocker cover


valves
8 open check 1
3 open check 6
5 open check 4
2 open check 7
8 open check 1
6 open check 3
4 open check 5
7 open check 2


rocker gasket


Then a good oil and filter change, as it will all be comtaminated from removing the head


New Clutch


remove interior and cowlings


remove gearstick


unbolt and swing hi/low gearbox selector foward to give clearance on seat box


slacken off gearbox and front diff breather pipes


unbolt front and rear propshafts (worst job on a landy)



undo the rear gearbox mountings


Use a suitable lift ()




Take weight of box and remove bellhousing bolts and nuts


swing box back to remove clutch etc


new clutch


this is the cause on a new clutch!!! see coin next to for size.
Was totally missing from the thrust bearing looks like the same chap installed this as who did the timing belt last time


new thrust bearing and sliders


Then its just a case of reassembling everything. Not easy when a certain tiger takes shelter fomr the wind next to you


take for a drive up to temp and give it the once over for leaks etc


done


Well that it folks, she is going back to france/spainish boarder on friday.

Thanks for reading

(ps dont forget my grey landy is up for sale now)

Drizz

Link to the Ad Lee?

Weaver

Excellent job as always chap

Was the old thrust bearing completely actuating arm because the clip was missing?

I'd be interested in seeing the spec of your Landy as well.....

jammy86

Loving all the Landys

What you need next is the bored and stroked version of that engine, some IR head lights and V-hull. Keeps you safe from all those landmines in Essex :P

JAmes.

Lee Ivatt

iTrader: (1)

The white clip fixes the bearing to the arm, so when the clutch pedal is realsed (engine ideling or in gear) the bearing is pulled back and sway from the lever spring plate.

What had happened on this one was the clip either disintegrated, or as i suspect was never put it as there was no trace of it and the bellhousing is a sealed unit!. So the bearing was making contact with the spring plate under ideling and driving and bouncing around the shaft.

Its basically worn a groove into the spring forks on the clutch pressure plate. Will post a pic tommrow of the damage.

Why the hell landrover used this pathetic plastic clip anyway is beyone me tho.

steves24V's

iTrader: (7)

Great write up, just change the engine in a 300 tdi disco took the head off 1.5 years ago to find out the head was scrap and the bores scored so put in a second hand engine, only prob now its cruching into second so go a second hand box on the way, got to love it tho, are you a member on landyzone too see one of your trucks on there.

mercury grey minter

What did you charge for this excellent service??