Bonnet off again, time for head gasket
disconnect fuel pump relay
remove oil breather and undo injectors
remove glow plug wires and water temp sensor
Remove boost top pipe, thermo to pump pipe, heater matrix pipes.
Undo rear engine lift ring to remove plug and pipe bracket
Remove water bar
Remove turbo heat shield
Remove inlet manifold
Remove exhaust manifold- you need to also remove the studs to get the head off with out removing the exhaust from the vehicle
use a mirror to detect lower nuts as there is no way t see them, or get your hand in to feel
Rocker cover off
rocker shaft off
remove push rods
Remove head bolts (you will need an extra long breaker bar as they as FFFT) Lay out all components in order!!!!
Even though the head bolts are to be thrown away, I still lay them out for refference as there are 3 different sizes and lengths!
Head should now simply lift off, be aware there are 2 dowels in the head to it may need a little nudge to free it. Its as light as a feather, so lift straight up to avoid scoring the block. place on a piece of clean well packed cardboard to avoid head damage
Well here are the problems, again as I predicted
very slight blow between 2-3 most likley incorrect torque procedure last time round.
The major issue was this - Blowing past 4 and into the oil way, which was atomising oil in the oil way, returning to the sump and finding its way in the oil breather system, which caused the symptom of having oil haze/smoke puffing out of the oil filler cap when removed and also then being drawn into the air breather and ultimatly in to the intake system. Basically reducing performance further more
The head is not in to bad a shape, considering some horror stories. Luckily this one was pressurising the oil way and not the water. it could have been a whole different story then. If these ally landy head get Too hot the ally goes soft and you can litterally dig your finger nail into it
Glow plugs and injectors removed to get better access to cleaning
After a througher clean and a basicl steel rule/feeler guage check the head seems fine, so no need for a skim. (landy heads have very little metal for skinimg so it really is a last resort on these)
Valves are all good as they were tested at the start with the compression /leak down testing during diagnosis
fit the injectors and glow plugs back in (in this case im using new items)
tip - use a dab of grease to stick the washer to the injector to stop if falling off when installing!
clean the block also, and use an airline to clear the stud holes of any water/oil/dirt
finally go over both block and head with degreaser/thinners to get it ultra clean
More expensive genuine goodness
This is the "3 tab" gasket the thickest of 3 that landy offer, the tollerences are so tight its always best to use this one. its also the multi layer steel type which is the better option on these engines due to the humongus 230 psi compressions
gasket on
head on and lightly oil the new head bolts
Torque the bolts to 40nm (29.5 lb/ft) using the correct sequence (center out) then mark the bolts on the 'knuckle'
Now tighten 60 degrees - anyone who went to school will now see that this is one knuckle on the bolt!
This removes the need for a guage dial.
Also marking the nuts is important incase you loose your thought track and eliminates missing a bolt
You are now supposed to wait 5 mins before more torquing but due to being out side and it being cold im waiting 30 mins.
Id advise this anyway to let the bolts stretch and settle, its also the pefrect ammount of time to get everything back on to rebuild the head
I start on the head internals then 'fuel' side
then the 'turbo' side
Once built back up (except rocker cover)
Tighten all bolts a further 60 degrees - so thats 2 knuclels clockwise from start position
Then tighten the center bolts a further 20 degrees (1/3) of a knuckle turn.
Next its time to check the valve clearances