Caddyshack

Just typed carbon sheet in to ebay. It is a doddle to cut, you just put masking tap over the glossy side and then use a 1 mm cutting disc...or just drill it.

Caddyshack

Here it is zoomed in on Turbo boost instead of revs...the image on the camera is not sharp but in real life it is a crisp tft touch screen

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Looking good mate

stu21t

Love this.

smiley

Very nice job thier mate whats your final spec going to be for the engine mate? Should be mental when finished

Caddyshack

Thanks all.

My final spec will prob be the max the efr can run which is around 530 bhp, it is 470 now. Just needs cam n Pistons when I get it rebuilt but I love the idea of a long stroke engine for more torque and quicker spool up still.

The ally blocks can even run 2.5 or more.

I will need to check if it has been long studded and do that if it hasn't.

Caddyshack

Today I got the old front diff out which caused me a bit of head scratching as not done before but finally got it out without dropping the engine / beam....I managed to do it by moving the power steering rack forward as per suggestions on the search on here.

I managed to degrease and clean all of the casings, sump and crossmemeber so it will be easier to find any leaks.

New quaife atb diff is in, it has the strengthening plate and was built up by Bara to match the rear 3.9 ratio of the supra diff as the skyline is 1:1.

Tomorrow will see brackets being made to mount the skyline attesa pump under the car to run the 2wd / 4wd torque split.

Caddyshack

Attesa pump is in and mounted under the car on anti vibration mounts. I got the ets pro 70% wired in, just need to attach the dash controls and the pick up a 30 amp relay for the main pump but all the wires are ready and in place. I am off to pirtec tomorrow for the pipe work.
Ordered the shock proof oil for the gearbox and the diff oil from opie. Hope to get the props back this week.

Caddyshack

Pirtek should be finished tomorrow and I nicked coleys idea and have gone for a 500 psi gauge in the car so I can see what the torque split is doing. I got the other pirtek pipes in and the reservoir for the and fluid mounted up in the boot and this should help bleed the system as there is a good gravity drop for the oil.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Good progress mate
Trust me it's a pane in the ass to prime the pump you no my number

graham c

iTrader: (5)

Wots the shock prof oil ? I run 600 psi gauge

Caddyshack

Shock proof is a thicker oil with some "science stuff" to stop the syncros crunching, most of the big power skylines run it. You only need it in the actual gearbox. Opie oil sells it in 3 thicknesses, I went for the thinner stuff. Coley has it in his.

My gauge is actually 600 psi but I believe the pump maxes at 500.

graham c

iTrader: (5)

yes o told Coley it's 500 psi after a problem he had with his ill look for that oil as my syncs are getting worn

Caddyshack

Cool, we both thought it was 300 psi to begin with. At 500 is it fully front wheel drive or does it not work like that?

My gain knob on the ETS pro just says that the lock up will be more aggressive if on max and can feel like the car is locked up.

If you go to the Opie site and search "shock" then it will come up. If you use the code PASSION you get a 10% discount at check out which is nice as it is about Ł110 worth of oil.

Caddyshack

reservoir in boot, this will be trimmed professionally

Caddyshack

pump under the car on anti vibration mounts

Caddyshack

pipework to feed the pump under the car

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Have you got the gear box back in the car yet ?

Caddyshack

Not quite, just waiting on pirtek to make up my clutch pipe with the break in it like you advised, then I can bolt it back in for good hopefully. I put the flywheel back on today with the bush you kindly made for me, then bolted all the centre push on that you also did for me. Clutch is centred and I went for one of Reylands top spec clutch cover pressure plates as the ap ones do not have as good clamping.

I put the brake shoes in today too

Pirtek and prop shafts should all be ready on Monday.

I have ordered some front diff supports from GRahman Goode so I need those to arrive before I can put the rack back in.

Caddyshack

Coley, your post made me think.....I recently bought a Sykes pickavant master brake pipe kit and I nipped out to the workshop and knocked up a pipe that can connect to the reyland flexi pipe from the hydraulic clutch kit so Sunday will see me put the box back in hopefully for the last time and I can bleed up the clutch. I will need mk to finish the diff housing soon as I will be waiting on that unless I use the old one and then swap it out....I will sent him a pm now about the nuts I need for the supra flanges.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Good to no your pushing on and getting it togever . Trust me when you next drive your car in the wet with the skyline gearbox you will be so happy you bid this mod

Caddyshack

You know what, in nearly three years I have not driven it in the wet. I have given it death in the dry and never spun a wheel and now it has so much more mechanical grip.....sticky tyres should make it amazing....can wait to launch it up the strip to see what it does.

Caddyshack

Got my final pipes from pirtek today and those are now on the car, I put a little atf fluid in the reservoir and it flowed from the pump bleed nipple well and then dribbled from the bit that connects to the box so that looks hopeful. Gauge is in the car. My prop shafts arrive by courier on Thursday (tomorrow).

Should have the box in by the weekend, just need my front diff supports to arrive and my mk nut kit.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Sounding good mate

Caddyshack

Front ggr diff support hangers arrived today so finished early and fitted those and then put the rack back and reconnected the column. So tomorrow I should get the box back in if I can bleed up the clutch ready and bolt in my new prop shafts.....not much more to do then.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Have you drill the holes in the bell housing to get the bleed nipple out and the pipe in

Caddyshack

Yup, thanks....the bleed nipple you made seems perfect, you saved me a lot of pain there.

600 psi gauge is in the car too. Won't be long!

Caddyshack

So the gearbox wanted to cause a few headaches today. The first clutch slave leaked and literally fell apart. I am hoping the spare is ok or I will order a tilton and be done with it. The input shaft is a real bugger to get in with the clutch cover in place. I am considering dropping the engine subframe and the lift it all in as one piece if I cannot get it to go in tomorrow.....my biggest concern with dropping the engine is if I will be too tempted to repaint the engine and bay whilst it is down......

Caddyshack

I was toying with dropping the engine and then realised that I can just lower the subframe on the bolts and gain the 1 inch tolerance that I think I need.....sometime you just need stop and let the subconscious work on it for a bit.....I think it will work, tomorrow will tell!

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Don't tell me you tryed to bleed the the clutch up with out the gear box on as you never do that you do it when the gear box is on the car as all it will do is smash the the slave to bits

Caddyshack

Yup, found out the hard way lol

It is perfectly obvious when you think that it is fully extended without pressure from the clutch cover, by trying to bleed it you just blow the seals and the rest apart...oops.

The spare was 1mm undersized so a quick polish with a drummel and I was back in the game.

Caddyshack

I have now decided to drop the engine out, marry the two together and then lift it all in together, it was doing my head in as it did not want to slot in with the clutch cover and clutch in as it is a little too tight to get the engle right. I may well strip the engine bay and paint it but hat might wait for the engine rebuild as I am just keen to get on and use the car.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Sorry to here your having problems getting it to line up mate but you will get there . The big problem with this gearbox is it's so god dam heavy to lift even on a jack it's a pane

Caddyshack

Totally agree, normally you can grab an mt75 and wiggle it in to place but the skyline box has more weight and right at the back so you cannot man handle it so much. The 205 she'll is tight at the back so easier to just drop out the front sub frame.

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

Bloody hell Toby !! When do you hope to have it up and ready

Caddyshack

I was hoping to send it for trimming at the end of this month but now I will be very tempted to weld up any unused holes in the bay and repaint it but I might wait until the engine rebuild just so I can get it on the road.

I will pull the motor out tonight.....I am probably going to put threaded bar in to the subframe holes and lower the whole beam on those down on to my transmission jack so it comes down very straight, chuck the box on and then back up.

Cars eh...makes you go bonkers.

Caddyshack

Engine is out and mates nicely to the gearbox, cleaned up the block n sump and painted the block black, it is a 200 block.

I also cleaned the subframe / beam. Then cleaned and repainted the engine bay ready for it all to go back in. Also fitted the MK supra diff cover. Now I am worn out.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

So all most time to push it all back up into the car . Just check the front prop shaft first as I did tell you I had to grind a bit of the weld on my bell housing so it would fit right

Caddyshack

Thanks, I did trial fit before and all looked good but will check it on the floor. The one props haft services made me is the same diameter as the skyline front all the way through so it is much thinner than the cossie one, it is a brand new shaft right the way through.

The rear prop is going back for a mod to the flange as it isn't 100% right. They added a grease nipple to the slider for me too which is a nice touch I thought.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Sounding good then mate shame about the rear prop this is ware I'm very looky as I do most of this stuff my self so I no it fits 100%