Caddyshack

I have texted you a picture....disaster struck. Gear box all bolted up to the block and as I was admiring the work I heard a crack and bell housing cracked around one of the top bolts.

I am tempted to still run the car to check the box is ok as I do not know if the syncros are ok or not and then get a new bellhousing made up.

What are your thoughts, will it greande the bellhousing straight away? The crack is between 2 webbing points.

Caddyshack

Here you can see the crack under the bolt at the top of the bell housing....thoughts? I want to run the car to make sure everything else works but how long would this hold even with gentle use? 500ftlb is a lot of twist!

Caddyshack

Atleast the diff cover looks good and should not break!

Caddyshack

I did a vry quick primer and repaint on the bay as was keen to get the engine back in, it can go to a body shop when the engine is rebuilt

Caddyshack

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

I would be repairing that first rather than taking it all out again later on Toby

Caddyshack

I am tempted to get a new bell housing done and swap it later, the engine out is only a couple of hours work.

I could repair this for now with jb weld like scooby slayer used on his truck engine.

I have found a close ratio kit in the states which gives a long first then tightly stacked 2nd and 3rd but retains the std 4th n 5th

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Hi mate as you no I bid reply to you today a bit slow as I'm on holiday in Crete and loving it . The more I think about it the more I'm hoping that this bellhousing was modded right as you no I did all my stuff my self so I had to check every thing I did . And Wots funny is it all bolted up ok befor all the clutch went in . I had to check all this out befor I started cutting the bell housings up as the skyline input shaft sticks out aprox 15mm and
A Cosworth one sticks out aprox 10mm all this has to be taken into acout when working out ware to cut and shut these gear boxes I just hope all this has been done right . As said I will ring you in the week when I'm home and see if we can sort this problem over the phone as if the input shaft is pushing hard against the crank shaft / clutch when the motor is started it could try and weld it self togever . We need to no 100% why the bellhousing cracked

Caddyshack

Good point, maybe it is too far in and I broke it bolting it up. I have a strong feeling i need a new bell housing. Thanks for taking time whilst on holiday. Have fun!

stu21t

You need this to repair your gearbox mate,

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=0&item=4197

http://youtu.be/SwyglwkZcCU

Ł30 in machine mart

I was just in there queuing for the tills and was watching the demo on TV. It's exactly what you need to fix it.

Caddyshack

Thanks for taking the time to show me that, if it is half as good as it says then could solve my problem.

Big thanks also to coley as he called me today to add some advice.

I have bolted the bell housing up today and it does seem that just the top corner ear is out as all other bolts faces sit flat and as you do up that corner the crack opens so the plan is to drill the end of the cracks to stop the split, bolt it all up tight with the crack open and fill the crack with a repair, then unbolt and reinforce from below, I will drill the crack a little in other places to let the repair fill the crack.

If this works as even a temporary measure then I can check the car runs fine on the new shafts, that the syncros are ok and the ets pro etc works, then mot the car and see if the box breaks....if it does then I will have to pay someone to make me a new bell housing whilst I get Bara to fit a close ratio 1st to 3rd kit n new syncros.

Thanks all, could not have carried on without the forum helpers!

stu21t

I hope it works for you mate.
It looks really promising in the video.

Is it weird that while I was watching the vid in the shop I was thinking I need to post it on here for you lol.
I did it in the car park before leaving so I didn't forget lol.

Caddyshack

I was just telling my wife that you had been really thoughtful...forums are great like this, instead of people arguing!

s1cosse

Check out dura fix on you tube for alloy repair good stuff you can get it of ebay cheap

Caddyshack

Thank You, it looks like there are a lot of modern solutions now. I was looking on an electric bike forum and it seems the Americans are glueing bike frames together etc with good results.

Caddyshack

I have just had a PM with a very kind offer from a well known trader on here to weld it up for FREE, top man and Thank you for the PM.

ajamesc

Far better to get it welded! At a guess you would have said something must have been bound up or very slightly out for it to have split as you did the bolt up. If you glued or bonded it it would just brake in the same way. Very kind offer for someone to weld it up for you

tkracing

if you weld it you can add strengthening webbs at the same time. but as said, you need to see whats put the strain on that bit of housing. it really should be able to take its weight, i think id recheck alignment and supports

MK MOTORSPORT

iTrader: (1)

HI
I think what has happened is ,toby said the guy he bought it off had it rewelded or something and I bet they never skimmed the face after welding ,which would have probably warped it ,so it was just a case of uneven surface trying to clamp to flat race of block


mark

Caddyshack

Yes, The top was defo not re-machined after he had the extra welding added and I THINK the top left bolt hole had warped a bit so as I bolted it up it just added a stress fracture. What I have done now is bolted it all home so the crack is exposed, multi drilled the crack so product can get in there and this way it will be repaired with the crack open so it will not pull open again.


Mark (MK) and I are working on a plan and I will temporarily trial fit the box as is until the new one is ready so that I can iron out any other issues (Try the Clutch, check the syncros, calibrate the ETS pro, bleed up the hydraulic clutch and check all is fine, check the new brakes, check the new propshafts, check front and rear new difs, diff fitting kit etc...) and then get ready for the MK 6 degree rear beam and then source the close ratio gearkit.


If it does not fail spectacularly then the new box can be ready for the engine rebuild at the same time which allows me to save up as this thing has been drinking money recently....in fact since I bought it.

Caddyshack

The box and engine are back together now, I used the ally repair weld stuff, it is very much like solder but you have to heat the metal for ages and get it really clean, I dremmeled a v in the crack and drilled right through in a few places, I welded it up from the inside and it looks pretty good, all bolted up fine, went on realy well.

I will refit the engine and box tomorrow and run it up.

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

Great news kid so should be ready to use Monday then ? Oh can I ask yet another favour can you take some pics of how your down pipe was modded for the efr please

ajamesc

Bet can't wait to drive it things going to be really fast lol

Mark Shead

Toby had a diff exhaust so it cant be compared, On yours it would be a couple of inchs longer and a V band end.

Mark

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

So have you got any pics then I don't care where they come from are you using Mike to adapt them ?

Mark Shead

Yes Mike has done them for me, Its about two inchs longer and about a inch or so off the downpipe flange and weld a V band on.

Mark

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

So the down pipe follows the same rout ect its the matter of fitting the vband?

Mark Shead

Yes manifold sits about 1 inch back and 2inchs higher.

Mark

Caddyshack

I have filled up the transmission with heavy weight shock proof and filled the transfer with atf fluid and started to belled the clutch and attesa pump.

I think the boost pipes will need some work due to the new hart inlet.

Front prop is in and rear will be in this afternoon, then oil change for the engine and reconnect all the wires.

When Mark mapped the car he found that the water expansion tank didn't have a pressure release, it popped the expansion tank....I have now noticed that my expensive high flow alloy pug rad is an oval shape so it must have really built up the pressure with nowhere to go. Just in case I am going to get the waterless flush and waterless coolant as that doesn't expand at all and have a new header tank made with pressure release valve. It would be nice to get a new intercooler in there soon.��

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like it's coming togever at last

Caddyshack

Yes, thank God. I think I will get another bell housing done as a precaution and might then take it to a company to see what cost to cast some using the new one as a guide. Billet would be great but a waste of material I guess?

smiley

Nice mate cracking on with it are you gonna run it or go for new build? Nice 200 block on bay studded

Caddyshack

For now I want to get the car running and get the interior trimmed and iron out any little niggles. Then consider the rebuild.

The 200 block would need to be very cheap for me to buy it right now and just store it.

niall_aus

just read through this whole thread. epic stuff.

Wicked car

Mark Shead

There is a few diff stud hole sizes don't buy the wrong one.

Mark

smiley

Ah learn somthing everyday which size is correct mark?

Mark Shead

Depends on make of studs fitting. My studs are the smaller o ring type.

Mark

smiley

Ok cheers mark

Caddyshack

Well my custom made exhaust was done when it had an mt75 box and 4x4 rear diff, it touched the supra diff on a corner, the mk mounting kit and one small part on the gearbox but after some heat and a persuading stick I managed to massage the exhaust and ground a small bit off each part. Now it fits better than it did originally...I even managed to polish up the rear box...will post pics soon.

Caddyshack

Rear box made as a replica of the original T16, it is upside down in the pic so the exit is actually on the passenger side of the car.