cheers fella.

i would happily mate but i shall be in the car monitoring fuel pressure like a hawk

if i get out and its still being mapped though i will try on my phone

 

well what a shit day ive had, got to the dyno at 830 this morning to see oil pouring out of it from the rear crank seal ! obviously didnt even think about running on the dyno and mapping. so i got recovered by the aa, phoned them at about 930 am they arrived at 1230 !

i got back at 3 pm straight on the ramp.
stripped out to find all bar 2 flywheel bolts have come loose and a small bit of damage on the crank, it appears a little bit of the face of the flywheel has fused to the crank ! it knockod of with a chisel but its left a tiny knurle thats caught the oil seal just right and sliced through it ! im thankful it did as much more driving and the flywheel would have departed, gonna have to loctite the bolts in aswell i guess.

thats the 4th time ive had this gearbox of in 2500 miles !

 

At least you caught it before you had it on the rollers, i bet if it you noticed the leak while on a power run it would have been catastrophic!

 

Christ this car really is fighting you!!! 2 steps forward 1 step back!!!

 

Sorry to hear/read this mate, that's a bloomin mare..

 

yes fella i consider myself lucky

it does feel that way, im still feeling the love though

it is mate considering ive only just put it in 400 miles ago ! bolts are rated to 60 lbft so i did them up to 65lbft, im gonna 75lbft and loctite now, i cant quite understand whats happened but there is a small hole in the back of the flywheel and a small lump on the face of the crank so it would appear a piece of flywheel has fused to the crank !

gonna be a tedious day tommorrow with a file

 

sell it and buy a cossie lmao
no seriously your very lucky you seen the oil pissin out,
also very lucky it didnt fuck all the threads in your crank !!

 

very lucky escape then!
total pain it never got spotted earlier but still at least you caught it.

onwards and upwards

 

Fucking cars!

Im sure you will have it right in next to no time

 

i consider myself lucky tbh could of been much worse, i can have it stripped now right down to flywheel off in 2 hours

so i should though the ammount of times ive done it lol

i fitted the flywheel last time, went by the book but anyways im grateful its not worse.

hopefully done next week, got the back box off now aswell yet another fuck up ive gotta sort out !

 

Don't you just love toys

Steve

 

very strange whats happened but it looks like theres an impurity in the flywheel, ive cleaned it up as best i can, crank looks ok should seal fine anyways and there both flat faces.




i think the hole you see above in the flywheel is the piece that ive had to remove from the crank, it had knurled over the edge and formed a sharp edge which then cut the rear main seal, so its all cleaned up and flat so im gonna just 75 lbft and loctite and try it again.

the exhaust back box has always bugged me aswell, once removed from the car when youy look at the top of it its been cut open and rewelded, and when i looked in it i could see through the perforated tube. so i cut the top open today



it had a bit of baffle in the top and sides, nothing in the bottom and a bit of wire wool rammed in for some reason ? it had also just been mig welded so im gonna get it proper stainless welded this time. got a 5kg bag of exhaust glass fibre baffle stuff coming looks like wool so should be able to ram that in and fill all the cavitys this time.

 

I'd be wary of over tightening the fly wheels bolts
Could do more damage than good that

Could over stretch them making them weak even though they won't appear to be

Can you not get a higher rated bolt

 

i have arp toyota 4age flywheel bolts and i can run upto 70 lbft according to arp anyways, i have got the exact data now from arp themselves, so im going 75 lbft and loctite. if it comes loose again after that then something is causing it but it all looks good to me.

 

Could you have the crank re tapped in situe for a deeper thread and bigger bolt if that's the case

Mabe drill the heads and wire lock them also

 

the crank is taped right through and bolts have 1 thread through the back so im 100% happy it will hold 75lbft would hold more imo, plus loctite should be good fingers crossed.

 

fair play to ya, 900 bhp jesus bloody christ let us know what its like when u hit the speed of light lol

 

Cant really lockwire into the crank, if they still come loose at 75lbft and loctite then no point trying to hold them on as clearly there must be a harmonic problem or something.

At least you spotted it in time, still shit luck it happening though!

 

i might be able to tell you if i can get it to hold together for more than 400 miles lol i shall not be defeated

yes mate i didnt even consider lock wiring, i used my old torque wrench the first time i did the clutch and it never came loose was running at pod also the bolts were tight id guess 70 - 80lbft, so im hopeful there isnt a harmonics problem and it will hold, will sdee soon enough im on it hopeing to be done by mid next week just waiting on the rear seals and baffling for exhaust.

i measured the crank end float today aswell it has 0.007 thou but i dont have any specifics for tollerance, on my cat engines they have 0.030 - 0.040 thou stock rebuilt lol

also i have just read through my paperwork and in my paperwork bolt tightness is listed as 55 lbft ! can understand them coming loose really 55 lbft with no loctite and 700 lbft of torque trying to break free

 

this car will be immense when done but you seem to have been fixing quite a lot!

 

yep it is an annoyance but when it all comes together and works even if its only briefly it makes it all worth it.

ive started wrapping the silencer as its twin into 1 inside ive wire wooled between the 2 3" pipes then tight wrapped twice round with heavy sheet glass fibe baffle, waiting on 5kg of lose glass fibre baffle packing now to tightly fill the rest of the silencer and crank seal, postman had no treats for me today

 

Surely you cant have measured it that accurately? Ie to register it as 7 millionths of an inch?
So really you mean 7 thou, ie 0.007" I assume?

Based on that, 7 thou doesnt sound horrific to me, but I havent ever built one of those specific engines.

 

yes chip i ment 7 thou you knew i did didnt you

i do lots of measuring in thou i work on our lathe and milling machine alot i just never really type about it so never thought of typing it in 100% accuracy

im not sure either what crank float there is from new ive looked but cant find any info, 7 thou is feck all but still would be nice to know the 2jz specks.

 

7 thou doesnt sound overly high. Especially with a used engine.

What size are the flywheel bolts ?

 

im happy with 7 thou but it has only done 3k miles. ive just read on supra forums on the ge toyota reccomended float is 8 thou, 11 thou max.

flywheel bolts are arp m10 fine thread. thread depth is over 10mm.

 

Pretty small fastener, wouldn't get too greedy wit torque. I assume there are plenty of them, and flywheel doweled ?

Weirdly, the ls uses only 6 m11 bolts and no dowels

 

no flywheel dowels but 8 bolts, arp actually state 70 lbft anyways so there stronger than there normal m10 bolts, i just used there stock m10 bolt torque of 55lbft my fault tbh, with a
oil wet bolt which mine were slightly the torque should actually be 85 lbft !

 

well i got the silencer baffled today and took to my stainless welder guy.

checked with supplier about late delivery of my rear crank seals and dhl track shows deivered thursday and signed VAULEIN, christ knows who that is i have no neighbours for about a mile out on the farm, paul is looking into it so ive just ordered another one from toyota this time, time is running out harvest will be starting soon so need to get it done !

 

Cant you just buy an oil seal locally ?

 

thats what ive done now, ordered one from my closest toyota dealer, ive already paid for 2 that have vanished and i dont know how long its gonna take to sort out, ive now spent Ł200 just for an oil seal !
will either get the 2 i ordered last week eventually or a refund i guess.

 

I mean from a motor factors, bearing supplier etc.

Hayley, BRT, SKF or I'm sure there are countless smaller places. Ł5-10 will easily buy most seals and they'd be a stock item.

Only thing to mention for a rear crank seal is the anti-clockwise rotation

 

Can you not lockwire the bolts to each other? Genuine question, you don't need to lockwire to a solid point.

 

tbh fella i didnt even think about it

i have a bearing and seal guy aswell that supplies all my heavy duty agricultural parts

 

well i picked up the toyota rear crank seal this afternoon and started getting it together, tryed to turn the engine over by the front bottom pulley bolt in the crank and it was loose ! it unscrewed all the way out with my fingers easy ! and there was no sign of loctite on that either !

so ive done him up to 240 lbft and loctited, i dont know if that being loose may have contributed to flywheel coming loose or the flywheel caused pulley to come loose but at least its been noticed and sorted.

 

Its never ending!

Good progress tho!

 

good luck dude, sounds like you need some!

at least you know what you are doing tho!

ps id check the head bolts and main caps just to be sure

 

And big ends, and hub nuts, and pretty much anything else that has a specific torque setting

 

well im am hopeful i am nearing the end with it, i think if anything engine internally wise wasnt right it would of failed by now, its done 4 pod runs, 2 top speed loads of blasting about and 3 hours on a dyno pulling to the limiter in 5th 170 mph countless times so fingers crossed it will be ok.

picked the exhaust up today so thats ready to go on. i ran the car up today and it starts and idles like a stock new car again, its a tell tail sign ive learnt now when the flywheel is getting iffy and bolts are coming loose the hot start is bad and idle is noisyer.

ive run it for about an hour and i can see no signs of oil getting by the seal, all seems dry now, running it with just 24" of 4.5" downpipe sounds awesome would be good to have a straight through side exit and screamer for pod

ive booked in again for mapping, but im gonna drop the car off this time and leave it a few days so the cold start can be done properly and not rushed on the dyno, fingers crossed it goes to plan this time .......

 

drove it off the ramp tonight, clutch feels perfect again and cant see any leaks, exhaust sounds real nice now quieter but better, hopefully mapping will go smoothly next week and she will be ready to use again finally.....

 

Fingers crossed for you mate, hope it all goes well for you, you deserve it lol.