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How much benifit is there with wasted spark?

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Old Feb 25, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Default How much benifit is there with wasted spark?

Hi all as above is there a big diffrence with wasted spark?
thanks for the info everyone
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 07:00 AM
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You get a stronger spark at the plugs.
No missfires.
Engine runs smoother too IMO .
A mod definetly worth getting.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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Ive always wondered this too.
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 11:21 AM
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Will be my next mod once i fix the niggles first
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Imo, it's a must on any Cossie, as above but engine runs cleaner too
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Old Feb 26, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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It is a great mod, makes ALS and LC a lot better aswell as more ign retard can be used.

If you do want a kit, drop me a pm and ill try and sort you a deal mate.
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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well worth the money,just fitted my kit and car runs great.closed loop maybe next for me!
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 09:48 PM
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how do you fit them? do they get wired into your ecu or what?
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:31 AM
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The 'driver board' needs fitting to the ECU, you then need an additional ignition amp and install the coil pack. I believe all this is included in the kit.

Martin
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 09:21 AM
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If you are not confident to solder in the ecu send it to msd to fit, then everything else is plug and play, a sub loom connects to the ignition amp plug and this has 2 plugs for dual ignition amps, a coil pack plug and a couple of wire to add to the ecu plug, think 21 for rev counter feed and 26 for 2nd coil trigger. May need to mod your rev counter but mine was ok. You also remove the capacitor from ignition coil feed and connect 2 original coil leads together, but that's about all there is to it apart from removing old distributor cap and rotor arm and leads. The blanking cap for distributor is worth getting as well.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by daz1968
If you are not confident to solder in the ecu send it to msd to fit, then everything else is plug and play, a sub loom connects to the ignition amp plug and this has 2 plugs for dual ignition amps, a coil pack plug and a couple of wire to add to the ecu plug, think 21 for rev counter feed and 26 for 2nd coil trigger. May need to mod your rev counter but mine was ok. You also remove the capacitor from ignition coil feed and connect 2 original coil leads together, but that's about all there is to it apart from removing old distributor cap and rotor arm and leads. The blanking cap for distributor is worth getting as well.
It's not as simple as that though, you first need to re locate the phase sensor and then it's not just a case of removing the dizzy. You need a bit of machining work as it also affects the oil pump.

Martin
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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! of the best mods i did to my saph!!!
as has been stated above, cleaner running, stronger spark, so smooth when idling! no shitty misfire when its raining! and no pesky hunting
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by James @ M Developments.
It is a great mod, makes ALS and LC a lot better aswell as more ign retard can be used.

If you do want a kit, drop me a pm and ill try and sort you a deal mate.
Out of interest how much would yourselves charge to supply and fit one of these to my Sapp cossie?
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:40 PM
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Ł500 drive in drive out

Ł400 for the DIY kit, and Ł35 if you would like us to fit the driver
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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Mmmmm not a bad price that..
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 04:22 PM
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You don't need to move the phase sensor as the distributer blank cap you can get fits over the phase sensor. Unless of coarse you want to remove the distributor all together then that is when you need to machining as you need one of the cams extending with a trigger and the cam cover machineing to accept a sensor to pick up on the trigger, which in my opion is to much hassle.
Just fit the kit open your plug gaps back up and enjoy.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dazzle740
You don't need to move the phase sensor as the distributer blank cap you can get fits over the phase sensor. Unless of coarse you want to remove the distributor all together then that is when you need to machining as you need one of the cams extending with a trigger and the cam cover machineing to accept a sensor to pick up on the trigger, which in my opion is to much hassle.
Just fit the kit open your plug gaps back up and enjoy.
I was just going to say that lol

Steve
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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I wouldn't run a Cosworth without it really, fitted in 2009 and never had a single misfire or issue since
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by James @ M Developments.
Ł500 drive in drive out

Ł400 for the DIY kit, and Ł35 if you would like us to fit the driver
Awesome, once ive sorted my turbo issue out ill be in touch.

Thank you..
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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thanks for the info guys , and think i will get it when i get the off the shelf chip from msd and maybe get a deal on the two
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 11:55 AM
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I can get my hands on a brand new dizzy , is the system still open to problems even if the ignition system is in tip top condition? Were they missfiring when new?
Dont get me wrong i like the idea of WS but it seems alot of money especially when my car seems to run smooth anyway (could be better but loom is old)
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by opposite lock
I can get my hands on a brand new dizzy , is the system still open to problems even if the ignition system is in tip top condition? Were they missfiring when new?
Dont get me wrong i like the idea of WS but it seems alot of money especially when my car seems to run smooth anyway (could be better but loom is old)
When i read about WS some years ago i got the general gist that even if the OE system in tip top condition would still loose power as it passes through all the components before it sparks at the plug whereas you massively reduce/illuminate loss with WS.

Someone more technical would have to elaborate but i just got pissed off chasing misfires around - after spending big on New motorsport leads, a few set's of plugs, every sensor under the bonnet ŁŁŁ, grp A coil the fucker was still there so i ripped the lot out and fitted WS and it's never had a single issue since 2009
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by opposite lock
I can get my hands on a brand new dizzy , is the system still open to problems even if the ignition system is in tip top condition? Were they missfiring when new?
Dont get me wrong i like the idea of WS but it seems alot of money especially when my car seems to run smooth anyway (could be better but loom is old)
i thought the same as you as my brothers runs smooth but under load thats maybe where the problems would start i dont know but i guess its a more modern way of doing the same job so should be better just wish i looked into it a bit more before i bought my motorsport leads never fitted mind you as in the parts collection stage lol
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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When brand new no obviously they wouldn't mis fire but how many of us cossie owners these days run absolutely standard power and therefore standard/low boost pressures which won't blow out a spark in a standard ignition system???
You go for more power and the increased boost pressures associated with higher power and thats when the standard system fails and mis-fires start which is the spark being blown out.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dazzle740
When brand new no obviously they wouldn't mis fire but how many of us cossie owners these days run absolutely standard power and therefore standard/low boost pressures which won't blow out a spark in a standard ignition system???
You go for more power and the increased boost pressures associated with higher power and thats when the standard system fails and mis-fires start which is the spark being blown out.
spot on if you upgrade one part you better do the part next to it lol, and my brothers cosworth is around 330bhp and it runs fine but that said it may go alot better with WS
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Buy .. Fit and forget .. Simple as that .
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:09 PM
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Mines running a nms stage one gunship chip, as it is now its drive nice pulls very well and it reliable but its pulsing when idling and sometimes misfires and its boiling my p155, would I be able to get the wasted spark kit fitted to mine ? As someone said to me its only for stage 3 or big powered cars ???
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:13 PM
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i will be fitting WS and imo the better the spark is it must be better for any spec engine i would think
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:20 PM
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it CANT not be better than standard on any spec as there is far less gaps for the spark to jump!
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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Hi Guys,
Wasted spark is an absolute no brainer and I would have a Cosworth without one unless it was standard and I was running concourse.

The system is so much better than the antiquated mechanical spinning rotor arm and carbon brush system in so many ways.



  • For starters there are no moving parts. (Rotor arm)
  • There are no variable gaps. (Worn dist shaft means different voltages to every spark plug)
  • There are no rubbing parts to wear away and lose voltage (rotor arm - carbon brush in distcap)
  • There are no gaps to jump which loses a lot of voltage (rotor arm to cap)
  • The king lead that had to do the job of all 4 HT leads is gone. (king lead)
  • The alignment limitation for advance retard has gone. (rotor arm arc as it spins past dist segment)
But most importantly of all, you now have TWO coils running two cylinders each instead of one coil running four cylinders.

This allows us to spend twice as long charging the coil between spark events, which means we have a MUCH better spark at the spark plug.

The biggest cause of poor ignition performance on the YB is the lack of charge time as the revs go up. This meant to maintain a spark we had to reduce the spark plug gap significantly in order to make sure the low voltage we had would make the jump. (The boost doesn't really blow sparks out guys... it just makes the cylinder pressure so high the spark cant make the jump as it hasn't enough voltage, so we either make the voltage higher / the gap smaller or the cylinder pressure lower... and we NEVER turn the boost down do we boys?! LOL)

On boost the decreased spark gap works to a point, although it does lead to quite high HC's (unburnt fuel) and often at idle, when combustion pressure is low, you end up with a fluffy idle misfire that just wont go away as the gap isn't big enough to correctly burn the fuel at such low combustion times.

One of the things a lot of owners say to me after fitment is "It sounds a bit more like a jap car at high revs now. Why?"
Well that signature fluffy, rough grunty sound the YB is famous for with big power and boost, is the sound of horrible combustion.
Wasted spark often picks up some good power at high revs and HC's come down from triple figures to double figures where they should be.

How many times have you guys sat at Santa Pod and watched a YB race a jap car and the YB be the only car with misfires and puffs of black badly or partially burnt fuel out the back?
The Japs have had wasted spark since the 70's. LOl

Think about this too...
There has not been a single mass produced car in the world manufactured since 1992 without wasted spark or coil on plug. This technology died over 20 yrs ago at best, and for most OE's, over 30 years ago, and for very good reason. Get rid of it.

All that said though, unless we find a solution to a problem we have right now of sourcing the connectors to interface the ign amp plug on the OE loom, there aren't going to be any more kits after we sell the last three in stock.

Last edited by Stu @ M Developments; Mar 5, 2013 at 10:24 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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Glad I got mine when I did then.
Your post would be great for a mag feature tech talk/tuning articles page

Last edited by kosienutter; Mar 5, 2013 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 10:47 AM
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Thats definately got me thinking now when you read information like above it makes it go from 'should I' to 'I must' lol.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
All that said though, unless we find a solution to a problem we have right now of sourcing the connectors to interface the ign amp plug on the OE loom, there aren't going to be any more kits after we sell the last three in stock.
Is that the brown one Stu?
Rich
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Hi Guys,
Wasted spark is an absolute no brainer and I would have a Cosworth without one unless it was standard and I was running concourse.

The system is so much better than the antiquated mechanical spinning rotor arm and carbon brush system in so many ways.




  • For starters there are no moving parts. (Rotor arm)
  • There are no variable gaps. (Worn dist shaft means different voltages to every spark plug)
  • There are no rubbing parts to wear away and lose voltage (rotor arm - carbon brush in distcap)
  • There are no gaps to jump which loses a lot of voltage (rotor arm to cap)
  • The king lead that had to do the job of all 4 HT leads is gone. (king lead)
  • The alignment limitation for advance retard has gone. (rotor arm arc as it spins past dist segment)
But most importantly of all, you now have TWO coils running two cylinders each instead of one coil running four cylinders.

This allows us to spend twice as long charging the coil between spark events, which means we have a MUCH better spark at the spark plug.

The biggest cause of poor ignition performance on the YB is the lack of charge time as the revs go up. This meant to maintain a spark we had to reduce the spark plug gap significantly in order to make sure the low voltage we had would make the jump. (The boost doesn't really blow sparks out guys... it just makes the cylinder pressure so high the spark cant make the jump as it hasn't enough voltage, so we either make the voltage higher / the gap smaller or the cylinder pressure lower... and we NEVER turn the boost down do we boys?! LOL)

On boost the decreased spark gap works to a point, although it does lead to quite high HC's (unburnt fuel) and often at idle, when combustion pressure is low, you end up with a fluffy idle misfire that just wont go away as the gap isn't big enough to correctly burn the fuel at such low combustion times.

One of the things a lot of owners say to me after fitment is "It sounds a bit more like a jap car at high revs now. Why?"
Well that signature fluffy, rough grunty sound the YB is famous for with big power and boost, is the sound of horrible combustion.
Wasted spark often picks up some good power at high revs and HC's come down from triple figures to double figures where they should be.

How many times have you guys sat at Santa Pod and watched a YB race a jap car and the YB be the only car with misfires and puffs of black badly or partially burnt fuel out the back?
The Japs have had wasted spark since the 70's. LOl

Think about this too...
There has not been a single mass produced car in the world manufactured since 1992 without wasted spark or coil on plug. This technology died over 20 yrs ago at best, and for most OE's, over 30 years ago, and for very good reason. Get rid of it.

All that said though, unless we find a solution to a problem we have right now of sourcing the connectors to interface the ign amp plug on the OE loom, there aren't going to be any more kits after we sell the last three in stock.
you only have two in stock now as i now owen one lol
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Old Mar 6, 2013 | 08:34 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Sonic Boom
Is that the brown one Stu?
Rich
Yes mate.

Originally Posted by matthewpickup
you only have two in stock now as i now owen one lol
Good man, thank you for your business.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #36  
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money well spent for me to,got pissed off trying to fix misfires.changing this checking that.got even more pissed of when i went to track days only to spend half the day flying about and the other chasing misfires.
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:31 PM
  #37  
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WS came today thanks msd
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 05:32 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Hi Guys,
Wasted spark is an absolute no brainer and I would have a Cosworth without one unless it was standard and I was running concourse.

The system is so much better than the antiquated mechanical spinning rotor arm and carbon brush system in so many ways.



  • For starters there are no moving parts. (Rotor arm)
  • There are no variable gaps. (Worn dist shaft means different voltages to every spark plug)
  • There are no rubbing parts to wear away and lose voltage (rotor arm - carbon brush in distcap)
  • There are no gaps to jump which loses a lot of voltage (rotor arm to cap)
  • The king lead that had to do the job of all 4 HT leads is gone. (king lead)
  • The alignment limitation for advance retard has gone. (rotor arm arc as it spins past dist segment)
But most importantly of all, you now have TWO coils running two cylinders each instead of one coil running four cylinders.

This allows us to spend twice as long charging the coil between spark events, which means we have a MUCH better spark at the spark plug.

The biggest cause of poor ignition performance on the YB is the lack of charge time as the revs go up. This meant to maintain a spark we had to reduce the spark plug gap significantly in order to make sure the low voltage we had would make the jump. (The boost doesn't really blow sparks out guys... it just makes the cylinder pressure so high the spark cant make the jump as it hasn't enough voltage, so we either make the voltage higher / the gap smaller or the cylinder pressure lower... and we NEVER turn the boost down do we boys?! LOL)

On boost the decreased spark gap works to a point, although it does lead to quite high HC's (unburnt fuel) and often at idle, when combustion pressure is low, you end up with a fluffy idle misfire that just wont go away as the gap isn't big enough to correctly burn the fuel at such low combustion times.

One of the things a lot of owners say to me after fitment is "It sounds a bit more like a jap car at high revs now. Why?"
Well that signature fluffy, rough grunty sound the YB is famous for with big power and boost, is the sound of horrible combustion.
Wasted spark often picks up some good power at high revs and HC's come down from triple figures to double figures where they should be.

How many times have you guys sat at Santa Pod and watched a YB race a jap car and the YB be the only car with misfires and puffs of black badly or partially burnt fuel out the back?
The Japs have had wasted spark since the 70's. LOl

Think about this too...
There has not been a single mass produced car in the world manufactured since 1992 without wasted spark or coil on plug. This technology died over 20 yrs ago at best, and for most OE's, over 30 years ago, and for very good reason. Get rid of it.

All that said though, unless we find a solution to a problem we have right now of sourcing the connectors to interface the ign amp plug on the OE loom, there aren't going to be any more kits after we sell the last three in stock.
good bit of advice stu, defo going to think about it for my cossie along with LC and AL
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