hi in the process of rebuilding my 202 block yb engine and at the point of buying pistons!
im quite new to the ford seen. not sure wether to go low comp or standerd comp? my engine before it spun a shell was runing bd 10 cams inlet & exhaust port and polished head grey injectors t34 hybrid turbo mahle low comp pistons. been told its a stone age set up? never had it dynod but would of said it was around 350 to 370bhp.
any suggestions on what spec to build to regarding cams pistons?
i used to like the way the power came in with a bang. what is power delivery like with standerd comp?
been thinking of swaping the grey injectors for the new siemens 750cc injectors as i have been told that the grays dump so much fuel it contaminates the oil?
what set up have you guys got what power from it?
thanks for your help!

 

if i were u i would speak to a reptuble tuner and he will tell you what you want to make you your desired spec

 

First thing is don't take advice from the wanker who "educated" you about greys, it's complete bollocks, all tuners were using these for donkeys years before siemens even existed, no one has as of yet shown any difference in delivery that produced a different result in power/torque, or if they did I've missed it, greys are perfectly fine, however they are no longer made, and so any spares will start to dry up also, so a new kid on the block like siemens might be a better bet, can't see this becoming a problem for around 10 years or so.
99.9% of bad problems are due to the mapper, or mismatch of things, like your last engine for example, on those cams/turbo, std compression would have given far better off boost driving, the sudden kick that you feel is because there is nothing much there to start with, ie it's lost a lot of power off boost that it could have had there.
I'd have kept the std exhaust cam BD8, and run a BD15 inlet if you want.
I'd go for std comp, T34.48, keep your greys, unless you need to change, if wanting around 360-380 I'd keep the std cams, although a BD15 will certainly help upper power immensely with a small loss at bottom power.
I run greys, T34.48, std comp, std cams, boost starts around 1500/1600, full boost by 2600/2700, so it's not so on off, mine is mapped and on different ecu.
What ever you do I'd say you would be silly NOT to get it mapped, it really does make that much difference, when I was on "off the shelf" chips it was good, but never realised just how little bottom end it had, compared with afterwards when it was mapped, honestly like getting out of a 1L car into a 2L car bottom end wise, of course as it produced so much better bottom end, the big kick had gone when turbo came in, there's still a nice kick, but it doesn't have as much deficit to make up for in power now as off boost there is so much more, it doesn't increase by as much as before, still the same end figure, real life driving it's rapid with instant/ish boost.
As a comparison to my last chip before ecu swap, it now makes 23 bhp more on 10psi less boost, and it's not chronically overfuelling now either, can only assume they pulled the timing back shed loads on chip for that to happen, but it must be said it was a bad chip.
My car passes the mot on 1.7% CO, but it could be leaner just make it a little lumpy whereas now it's perfectly smooth.
The best money spent would imo be on mapping, whatever the spec, since mapped I have more off boost power, more on boost power, masses more mpg, better emissions driveability, but depends what YOU want power wise.
I picked up well over 150miles to a tank more range since mapping, but was a very bad chip with 10.3 AFR on lean cruise!!
I need to have bottom end as will be towing a caravan, NOT NOT at 40mph everywhere though!!
tabetha

 

Thank you Tabetha, will be getting mapping done by msd hopefully even tho its a long way from south wales. gonna run it in on standered injectors and standred chip from mat lewis. Was gonna buy pistons and some other stuff and get the mapping done with a1rallysport when engine was compete and run in, but keep on being messed around, promised to be rung back too many times now! have been offered by another supplier weitec pistons standred comp with valve cut outs for about £520 or mahle ones for £360 and about £90 for machineing valve cut outs dont know whats best to do? think i am gonna go for the set up you've got or very simular. think it will make the rear end a bit more useable lol. i have already been spending my hard earned on a cosworth high pressure oil pump collins engine mounts arp stud/nut kit wrc head gasket, all engine gaskets, gaz coilovers gonna get the arp main and big end bolts next, do you think its worth using arp stud/nut & bolts? took the block to have bores checked today before i order pistons.
what would be the next step in getting more power from it in the future when my funds rebuild? lol
thank you again Tabetha for your help.

 

what bhp are you aiming for?
what exhaust housing do you have on your turbo? .48, .55 or .63

standard mahle pistons are more than capable, they will easily handle 500hp, and get valve cut outs

standard head bolts are fine as long as genuine ford ones, alot of people dont like arp stud kit because there are loads of stories about them them cracking the block

i used arp with no issues however, they MUST be installed correctly

it looks to me like you wanting to go for stage 3. so i would have standard compression, standard cams, t34, siemens 55lb injectors, rs500 intercooler, decent breather, chip to suit

in an ideal world a live map is best, but its not cheap, circa £500.

 

I use ARP, but as said they do need checking as some are a tad longer than the ford affair, so the holes must be tapped out of all crap/congealed oil etc otherwise hydraulic lock can occur and crack the block.
I'd use a group a head gasket yb 0611, let it rest for a minimum of two hours before retorquing to final 120lbft, that's how I do it.
Having pocket pistons is very handy for future cam upgrades, but next step would depend on what you want power wise, remembering it is RWD, and even std ones have gone backwards sideways and forwards all in one go!!
You need the two cossie options of fan loom upgrade and fuel pump loom upgrade as well, even on a std cossie, so do these first.
tabetha

 

Lhd220turbo
aiming for around 380bhp its a t34.48 but i have got a .55 turbine housing spear. i've got the forge thicker core rs 500 intercooler forge ally rad not sure what stage chip was in it before but was boosting to 2 bar. got the forge breather on it to.
thanks for the help.

Tabetha
would you go for mahle or weitec pistons? i love going side ways and shameing people in my local area who love finannce and 20grand + cars its just the look on they're face when you pass them in a serria, lol.
where can i get the fan loom upgrade and fuel loom upgrade from?
thanks.

 

my old spec was this

t34.55
siemens 55lb
pace 500 cooler
magnex exhaust
msd chip
standard head with standard internals & compression
grp a head gasket
bailey breather
ap 6 paddle clutch

peaked at 30 psi and held 25/26 psi - makes for an awesome road car, i guess mine was around 370hp (never had it on the rollers) i set it up myself so maybe i could have got a bit more with a live map

Mahle pistons are fine, proven and tested, i would only move away from Mahle pistons if you are going for over 550hp, then i would have CP pistons

Mahle are forged as standard.

 

Think im gonna go with the weitec ones as i can get them for only £30 quid more cash deal than the mahle ones with machineing. cant wait to get the block back now to start building it up.

 

seriously, stick with the tried and tested pistons of Mahle, i wouldnt buy the ones you are thinking of

they are proven pistons!

 

I would defo go with MAHLE, as said tried and tested, easily capable of 500 all day long.
For fuel pump and fan loom, Ryan off here does them or DIY, dead easy, + satisfaction of your own work.
tabetha

 

Ok thanks again guys. Suppose i'll find somewhere else to spend that £30 for sure lol.