RoscoesRS

Hi Folks, hope you can help. RST S2 driver.
Coming back from work the other day my oil light was flashing when a stopped at lights and stuff, when a picked away the the light would go off.
Next day when a stared the car, oil light was on and engine was noisy. Turned the car of and left it.
I have changed the oil and made sure it is at the correct level, started the car and still no better.
Please help
Thanks Roscoe

cozzfather

iTrader: (1)

mate, the first time a red oil light comes on i would of shut it off and investigated it first and not let it go off and come back on.

RoscoesRS

The oil level was a bit low, thats the reason i changed the oil and started the car again.
Apart from that the car has not been ran.

Trist

I would say oil pick up gauze in sump is clogged up. had that before

Aaroncast

OIL LIGHT ON -ON A RUNNING ENGINE-----------DAMAGE DONE ALTHOUGH BE IT MINOR -ITS DONE THE BUISINESS-------------------FIT A LOW WARNING LIGHT SENDR AS USED IN RALLY CARS ETC ----------------
LIGHTS UP BEFORE DAMAGE IS DONE ---------IN THE OLD DAYS I RALLIED A MK1 --ETC ETC AND HAD TWO BIG INDICATOR LAMPS ON THE RIGHT HAND DASH ONE RED FOR ALTINATOR AND THE AMBER FOR OIL-YOU DONT MISS THEM WHEN THEY COME ON!!!!!!!!LOL-
WONT LOOK NICE ON A ROAD GOING CAR THOUGH--------HE-HE

RoscoesRS

Thanks folks, a will remove the sump and check for blockage.
Hope its not to f****d.
Should a be checking anything else when am under?

Thanks again

Moonie

You may aswell have a look at the oil pick up pipe gasket where it bolts to the pump while you have the sump off.

Does the noese sound top or bottom end? I would be tempted to take the bid end caps off and have a look at the condition of shells whilst the sump was off.

SillyFezzaMk1

iTrader: (1)

the red warning oil light means damage is BEING done to your engine by low pressure. Shut the bloody thing off and get some oil in it!

My mother did this in a civic type R and ended up having a full rebuild dozy muppet...she was on the phone 'Dan can you put some oil in my car its getting noisey & the lights been on for a while'

OIL light on = Damage being done

Dan

fonfe

check the gauze, and clean it, if thats fine your oil pump is most liley on its way out. i had mine go and apon removal discoverd it had snapped into 2 pieces.

RoscoesRS

The noise sounds like it was coming from the bottom rather than the top(i.e. tappets).
Hard to tell though,only let the car run for a few seconds once a changed the oil and made sure it was at the correct level.
Can the shells be replaced via access through the sump?
Going to have a look at it on Sunday( if shes not got any plans for me).

Moonie

Yes, the big end shells can be repalced with the sump off (no need to remove head/take out pistons). Obviously if the crank is damaged/scored then it becomes a little more serious.

RoscoesRS

Hi folks,
I removed the sump, and the gauze had a little crap on it, didn't seem blocked tho.
Had a look at the big ends and main bearings, little wear tho not sure how much wear is acceptable. Crank looks free from damage.
Can anyone advise on wear limits please?
Next step i assume will be to remove and inspect the oil pump?
Open to any advise as this is a bit of a learnin curve.

Thanks Again

turbozvh

it might be worthwhile changing the big end bearings while the sump is of you will be surprised have little movement you need in them for a knocking noise better to change them before they score the crank

RoscoesRS

Can anyone suggest a seller for the bearings?
Would the big ends cause low oil pressure aswell as noisy engine or am i just aswell checking the oil pump? Not sure what esle it could be.

mechanic28

iTrader: (5)

can u get a pic up of the shells

fonfe

id be just taking the pump out and looking at that first to be honest as putting in new shells is pointless if the pump is at fault, al youl do is put new shells in it then cause damage to brand new ones if its the pump at fault.
to take the pump off, take the o/s/f wheel off, set the timing as thought you were doing a cambelt, support the engine with a jack under the sump (put a block off wood in between to stop damage) take the engine mount off, lower the engine down so that you can see it remove the cam belt, remove the bottom pulley, the oil pump ois held on by a series of 10mm bolts i think, well wotever size they are, remove these and the oil pump should come off,
if you dont know what it looks like look here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-CVH-Oil-P...2em118Q2el1247

take it off an have a look! but fit a new gasket when you refit it, and it will make life a lot easier if you pack the rotor full of vasaliene as they can be a bit fo a pain to line back up again onto the keyway on the crank, but then drain a put fresh oil in the car once you have it sorted

RoscoesRS

Sorry cant post attachments, must have to pay for that a think.
The shells look like they have worn through to a goldie colour, at points.
I have removed the pump and all looks fine apart from a few metal shavings inside the pump.
What sort of wear should a be looking for?
Thanks folks

RoscoesRS

For future ref, the oil pump came out without dropping the engine.
By pushing the engine to one side the oil pump will drop free.
Saves a bit of time and effort.