updates????????????

 

they say the car is idling but cuts out. their looking at the fuel pump. i told them about air leaks and they said there arnt any. i havnt had time to go down and check it out because ive been at work, so im going to go down today and actaully see whats going on. their only spending a coupla hours a day on it in the evening so they dont have to charge me much, but theyve had it for 3 weeks.

 

Dont want to sound like a cu-t, but

Like hell they know anything about RST's. 3 x 5 day weeks x 2 hour = 30 hours , and they havne't checked the pump, and by sounds of it air leaks either. Ask how they know it hasnt got anyleaks?


Hope you dont get charged lots, but there time is still money, and all chargeable as they are a firm.

 

jokers!!

 

£180 later, got the car, starts pretty much 1st time with a bit of gas, , revs up a hell of a lot better and has tons more power. Idles aswell, just above 1000.

now another problem. got 40psi ish compression in cylinder 1 on idle, so idle is very rough. it missfires. still a lot better than before, but when car is revved up, it is fine.

got a tapping sound from the top, kinda comes and goes. when warm its a lot quieter...

heard its a valve burnt out. ..?

im going back to the people who rebuilt the engine.. any thing i should bring up apart from whats blatantly going to be bought up?

if so had enogh of this shit.

 

other 3 cylinders have good compression btw.

 

so................ that garage have been fart arsing around for weeks on end, and after all this you've forked out 180 notes, and still have a car which doesn't run right and has a severe compression issue.

I cant even be arsed to troll back through the pages but im pretty damn sure a compression test was one of the first things i suggested

 

coming out of the fresh rebuild, i had full compression on all cylinders.

Had nothing to do with the car starting.

 

starting issue was the FUEL PUMP and metering unit, which i both said right at the start and no1 agreed. bought a 2nd hand m .u, was just as shit as my one. The stripped my one down and rebuilt it, sorted out the timing and firing and replaced the injector pipes.

now a valve can be burnt out for a number of reasons. they wernt touched by any of the garages so far, so its happened over this time. maybe since ive been treying to start is so much with no fuel getting through, or cranking the engine with an obvious problem, maybe i burnt out the valve?

or not, but instead of telling me whats just happend in the garage, or what i should have done, why dont you tell me what to do next. or is it to another garage?

 

Don't see how you could have burnt out a valve without actually driving it. Unless a garage has been thrashing the bollocks of it. It might be something to do with the rebuild - i.e. a slightly bent valve not shutting properly. It could aslo be a missing rocker shim or something like that.

You might want to do a wet compression test too.

 

it was said it could be
Mu, fuel pressure, as well as compressions, air leaks, cam timing/wear, ign timing, mixture.
Which all above would take 3-5 hours to check/test.


And the metering unit you got off me, was a fully working unit, and if your garage didn't play around with it, you could of taken my offer up, which was to put it on a RST i have to prove so.


Me and Safe Chav have helped you alot, with alot of our time taken up.



I tried helping you, and offered to sort it out when it was running (b4 this thread was started), but you and 2 other garages have fiddle'd with it and since hasn't run.


But instead you do what a back street garage that doesn't know to much about RST's

Then you get the arse that we get fed up trying to help, as you dont listen.




And the compressions could be a few things,
rings, h/g, valve or cam issue.


All of which should of been checked before all this time spent.

All of which is a un run in car, been turn'd over on starter motor for hours on end, which is not good in anyway.

 

dont think i dont apreciate both your help!

 

When you say you Stripped down and rebuilt the metering unit.........what exactly did that involve!!

Never ever ever in a million years have you burnt a valve cranking an engine

 

Ive got the metering unit, ill take some pics and show you. I dont know what that involved. So how could i have burnt out a valve. unless it was like that from the 1st garage and as to why it was running shit from there, even though i was there when they did a compression test and it was fine...

 

Who's said your burn't a valve out?





Did they do a leak down test?

 

the guy whos got the car now took the head of to examine, but he already knew by how the car was running that it was a burt ou valve. hes already replaced them, just putting it back together. aparently it was an inlet and outlet on cylinder 1.

 

Have they been driving it?


Did they show you the head? have they kept the valves? so you can post pic's?

 

yea i told him to keep the valves so i can take them back. he hasnt driven it, got to work staraight away.

 

Someone is shovelling some major bullshit somewhere about this.

You can't just burn a valve out trying to start a car. The temperature required to do that is too massive - you just wouldn't be able to get it hot enough without thrashing the bollocks of it. If it had a burnt out valve it must have been like it before.

So this garage just knew that it had a burnt out valve without taking the head off? Has he just put in a new valve then? What about the valve seat because if the valve had got hot enough to burn out it would take the seat with it. A new valve on a burnt out seat is not going to last five minutes. Plus you still don't know what burnt it out in the first place.

Plus how did trhey strip down and rebuild the metering unit? That's a precision instrument - you can't just dismantle it on the bench. What did they find wrong with it and where did they get the parts from to rebuild it?

There's a lot of stuff here that makes no sense whatsoever.

So is it fixed now?

 

some more great news, head gasket is in a bad state apparantly and he says this is related to the bubbling in the coolant tank.

hes not going to do anything cos he said take it back to the original garage. If it was rebuilt it shoulda hae had a new gasket, this 1 looks old to the mechanic.

 

Well if the second mechanic has taken he head off you would need a new gasket and bolts anyway - you can't reuse them.

So the second garage has taken the head off and found and replaced a burnt out valve...and now he's realised the head gasket needs replacing? wtf

Seriously - I'm starting to think this is a wind up...

 

Hav, becarefull to what the 2nd garage says, as will be biased against 1st one.

I cant see why anyone will fit a H/g twice, when they are cheap.

Also the headgasket wont be in bad stat, due to amount of abuse the cars Not had, and even if no Anti freeze was fitted, still wont fuck the H/G in the time your looking at. And bubble's story is bull.




Make sure either a Payden (£15) or a Ford (£38) item is used. both are the same item, as both made by Payden, just 1 hasn't got ford stamp.

Also Get non strench bolts. (£15 posted to you, pm me)

 

trust me its not a wind up! I dont have the energy or time to do this for fun!

Garages seem to though. I havnt actully seen the h/g, so i cant tell you the condition, i was told by my best mate who went and checked the car for me while i was at work. Dan, im going to take you up on your offer in a month or so, the cars coming down to you.

He said the car is still drivable, the h/g isnt complety buggerd but it doesnt look new to him as i told him its just had a rebuild, he was expecting a new 1. As for replacing the gasket.. thats a fukin good point! Ill ask him tomrrow.

Im just thikning, although these are garages, ive been using them for a while, they know who i am, so i dont think they have an intention of messin me around. but then maybe im too forgiving.

 

heres an update guys.

so the headgasket was complety hammered, obvoiusly he replaced it. Valve was burt out as i said and the starter motor was gone and the battery was completly finished, replaced all, car started, fired up perfectly, idled at 800, no missfire, plenty of power as compared to as before, everything works....

but me and my luck..

when i came back round from testing the car, i pulled up and turned it off. now...

wont even click over. starter motor got replaced as it was still under warrantee from the 2 days it had been on the car... nothinng. the DAMN engine wont turnover. Battery is fine and tried a jump.

what can it be now. this is my last last last attempt, then the cars being broken. almost half a year...

just sitting here thinking about it, i think it could be a problem i had ages ago with the ignition barrel thing. the black box on the left side, when i took it off and used a screwdriver, it worked every time... apart from this, me and the mechanic are compeltly stumpd as to why it wont start up.

 

Does the car turn but spanner on bottom pulley?


does starter turn when shorted?

 

Aparently he found the problem, havnt been down to see it and as im not trusting mechanics at all, i dont know if hes shitting. he has no reason to but he said it was just the starter motor relay or something that had come loose. was supposed to pick it up today but hes not picking up.

sound possible?

 

Sorry..........starter motor relay

The only cars to have relays interfering with the starter solenoid are the automatics which have an inhibitor relay. - short of that they are either bullshitting you or dont know what it really is.

 

im not sure at all if it was that. but was something like that and it had come loose. i was in a rush so didnt talk to him properly... what could it be?

 

starter relay?

 

starter switch?

 

Theres no starter relay.


Theres only 3 wires to the starter, Live and earth direct from the Battery, and a ign switched live from the 3rd click of the ign swith.


So if it was a issue with starter, could be anything to do with it or its wiring.

 

well ill find out tomrrow i guess will let you know!

 

right hes checked the entire starting / ign wiring and its all in place. Hes giving up i think as he (the 3rd mechanic) is also to pissed of with the car and has run out of what it can be.

im officially tired of seeing the car doing fuck all so any last suggestions, if not, im breaking.

 

Yeah, take it to someone with a clue.................................




So if whole system been checked and ok, it would start.

as it wont start, there's someone missed.


imobilizer??

 

i thought qualified mechanics with years of experience would have clue. obviously not. . do you want the car? i dont know any1 else who knows rs's inside out and tbh im not taking it anywhere else.

no immobiliser. he said the battery is dead, want me to replace it but i know thats not why the car isnt starting as he can easily use another/jump the car.

 

OMG i can't believe this is still on going

3 mechanics............

 

Well aprently the car is running 'sweet as' now according to the mechaninc, cso am going down to collect at 7. will let you know in the evening what the deal is. I managed to make him get me a new battery at his cost. ive got the worst feeling it was something as simple as low petrol...

 

If needs, i can do it.



but the time i spend on it, is what will be charged at hour rate agreed, plus parts, no freebee's like the others have done for you.

but i'll test things, rather than the guessing the other have done.

 

so the mechanic cancled on me, said he cant stay at garage till 7 today as hes busy. chances are its going to need looking at, i can highly doubt this guy has sorted it properly.

moneys not wasted if i can see it doing something. if you spend 10 hours and i can see youve spent 10hours there wont be any fuss ill hand over money, but as ive found out the worst way possible, the majority of mechanics do fuck all and charge days and days labour. all the money ive spent so far has been a complete waste (apart from actual parts).

i just calculated how much ive spent in the last 4.5ish months...comes up to just under £2000 ! that includes a new clutch, pads, discs, valve , followers, turbo, alternator, starter motor, fuel distributor, rad + rebuild parts (reground crank, gaskets, betls, n the little things missing like thermostat and a million bolts) i can probably bet one of you guys could pick all that stuff up for under £500, which means the other £1500 has been labour! DAMN!

Anyway will let you know sometime on saturday whats happning with it. Dan ill give you a call if i need your help... really want to give up with this car but something is pushing me to finish it...

hows that s1 in your drive going btw? sorted it?