Credit to you The car is Stunning

 

Looks stunning

 

Stunning Chris, just perfect

Running in will be no problem with such a nice car, i've done 2200 miles in 6-7 weeks

 

Got the car home yesterday and all i can say is i hate the way it drives i remember the last time it was off the road for the winter it took me ages to get used to it again and this time it's worse

Still suffering from high tick over so i've taken the plenum off to recut every mounting thread as they are all shit, these Hart plenums are a joke.

 

Why do you hate the way it drives? In what way?

 

Just read through all 45 pages.
This car is stunning, truly one of the best I've ever seen!

 

that top pic looks stunning you cant beat a clean black car

 

Looks very nice.I hope you can sort the aay it drives out.Or is it cause you havent driven it for a while and cause its an old car.

 

How's the rear geometry settling now with the shims ate fitted ?

 

Cheers Craig

Old car mainly, felt the same the last time it was off the road for a while - i need the suspension setting up then some time driving it on the by pass to make sure everything is doing what it should be.

Until i can get some machine on it to get reading it's hard to tell as the shape of the car is rounded but it just seems the rear wheels sit perfectly straight with a little more toe in which can look odd against the car's body shape then comparing to the front wheels which sit with a few degree of -camber .
The car will be on the road as off next weekend so i'll be putting a few miles on then i'll see what settles.

Other than the above i've only been messing with the Hart plenum - all 5 threads on the top row were pretty much shot - the lower row were in good condition but i helicoiled the lot - TB end again the top 2 were shot, 1 was really bad and the other needed attention so again all 4 were done - just need to clean the plenum off and refit and test.

I will fit the Airtec throttle bracket for now but i'm still confused as to why i can't get full throttle like i did with the forward mounting bracket - the last reading i got was 0.35v closed & 3.09v open which is far from ideal - with the cable off the bracket will open to the required reading but theirs no way it can with the cable on. This confuses the fuck out of me as all cables are the same and looking at it to get what i need the spring would have to be shorter for when it's fully compressed Or get another forward facing bracket made.

But for now whilst it's running in i won't be needing full throttle so that can be addressed when it goes for live mapping.

 

 

still my favourite 3 door

 

Ive pm,ed you matey.

 

Sorry Glenn been on long shifts - the oil seals are from BRT bearings

The seals are
Small one BRTS17X28X7
Large one BRTS20X32X6

Around Ł20 the lot

Can't remember what type of grease went in them mate, maybe graphite as i did these the same time as the shafts

I have just been for my first real drive on the road, wound it up to 10psi and it pulls along nicely, not sure if i'm going to like the sound of the cone filter when it's running full boost as it's really loud - in fact i can't even hear the dump valve

Having a little idle problem and just set the warm idle at 900rpm with the iscv disconnected is this likely to be the cause of the issue as i have just rebuilt the whole inlet so i'm sure their isn't an air leak.
If i try to plug the iscv plug in the rev climb very quickly.
PF09 set to CT 0.35v

What's the best way to clean an ISCV? do i need to strip it?

 

Yes strip the ISCV and let it soak in petrol overnight.

Thanks.Lee.

 

or brake fluid

 

I'm going to do it tonight Lee, i've just been out in the car and it's starting to tighten up and settle in the chassis department and engine is starting to feel easier to drive - idle set at 900rpm without the iscv connected and pulls really well to 10psi

 

I use brake fluid mateu and it works a treat.Ive done this a few times now and the idle has always been spot on.

Thanks for the info on the bushes.

 

Well it's on the road and running like a bag of crap the idle is all over the place, when i set tps to a recommended setting which it has been before 0.35v Closed Thottle i can't get near WOT figure of 4.5-5.0v then when setting the warm idle it works the complete opersite when cold the car won't tickover and i've done all of 50 miles and i've had enough. i've cleaned the iscv which appears to be working.

I genuinely keep thinking of just locking away and leaving there.

The car handles well but knocks and bangs, kangaroo's, whines you name it and it's about a million miles from being a road car now which a couple of years ago was great but now i want to use the car with the family it's feels like i can't which is the enjoyment part straight out the window.
And top it all off it's done the last 25 miles to Ł25 of fuel, it's massively overfueling and i'm now where near anyone that can set up these.

It's booked in with James at MSD for live mapping in 5 weeks and i still need to put 750 miles on the motor which if i keep going this way will be fucked by the time i even make it there.

Totally disheartened with it if i'm honest and just want a basic car i can run in then enjoy after mapping

Question for any engine builder, tuner.......

One option is to drive it down to Blackpool 93 miles away but i wasn't sure if sitting on the motorway for that length of time is going to be idea for bedding a new motor in?

 

Seems alot of disheartened cossie owners these days hang in there Chris..

Chris, don't you think of selling mate, it'd be criminal all that hardwork..

Edited to say.

This pic is epic mate...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...IMAG0002-1.jpg

 

That's shit news Chris
Can't you get it on a flatbed and go to MSD to solve the problem?

 

I know the feeling mate my 3dr is by far the worst car I have ever driven on the road in every possible way but as soon as I get it on track it comes alive so I would not have it any other way !

 

Put it on the back of a tow truck, 100 mile will cost about Ł100 and by the sound of it you would use that in fuel driving it. I'm sure MSD can set it up on a temporary safe map for you to run it in.

 

If you have a lambda meter in the car check the afr and see if its ok, If not you should be able to tell msd how far out it is and they could prob tweak the map so its closer to you engine spec.

Mark

 

Flatbed to MSD and it'll be sorted Chris.

 

Ps,where did you get the steering column bush/bearing from ? Would it fit on my saph column ?

 

Strange how we change about our cars.
I always liked my modified 3 Door the best, noise, speed etc, but now I am preferring my standard 3 Door, refined, quiet, no knocks etc.
Or maybe I am getting old now lol

 

Brammer my 3 door now knocks and bangs , since i fitted the UPRATED diff mount..... but i can live with it and use it most days . As for your problems i only use one tunner and he is spot on with these cars . he is in romford essex . Not sure how far up north you are but if you want the car sorted get it to him. He has told me he has a hell of alot of new customers from up north,birmingham etc with mk2 cossie escorts and 3 doors .

GSmotosport

 

Just get on with it and stop whinning ya big bitch

 

can easily be sorted out Chris, hang in ther mate, you have done the hard work now.

 

Trailer it or flatbed to MSD, once it's mapped it will transform car. My Saff started and drove perfect post live map.

 

As above - Live mapping makes such a difference, you really just need to take the car to a specialist now, they'll have all the problems sorted ASAP!

 

It was one of the parts on my list, i was actually trying to search for the thread that compared the different AFR dials but could find it, which one do you recommend and would use?

Flat would be the easy option if their were a company local but their doesn't seem to be.

Ebay mate, the info is in one of the later pages of this thread

Scottish border mate

Cheers mate, my missus has always stayed quiet about the cars over the ears but she's actually said that fucking car is doing her head in due the time and stress & money it's taken to get to this point.

The car will be livd mapped once i have the running in miles on it - i currently have a running in map it's just all the sensors etc need setting and making sure they all work as the car hasn't been on the road for 2 years i don't 100% know what does and doesn't work fully.

I'm going to have a word with James in the morning to see if i can get an emergency slot as i know he and Stu are both mega busy with the new RR unit and both have holidays coming up

 

As others have said Chris,
Best to get it to your prefered tuner.

Mine ran poorly to begin with and was using an obsene amount of fuel but after Harvey did some tweeks to the map it now revs more freely (Is still getting better as still only done 300 miles) actually idles when coming off the throttle and uses alot less fuel.

As with the knocks and bangs, best thing I did was remove the uprated diff mount.
I have however been informed the with the uprated mounts the bolts to the diff casing sometimes need cutting down shorter, however I have not even measured or checked mine and will leave as it is on the Escos till its worn out.

 

Give Will Pedley a ring. He will sort it out. He will come to you so it saves driving the car to a tuner. Ive got his phone number if you want it.

 

If you Want a road car. Remove anything that's designed to be for track. Coilovers etc.

Ring will p, he'll come to you and check it over so you can run it in. It'll need an oil change if it's massively over fuelling

 

Lock it away but don't sell up just becouse the way you feel you may feel different in a few years I promised my self I never will sell my saph I've had it the last 10 years now every time I take out not very often that boost spike does it for me and I've got coil overs lol good luck mate

 

I had a few issues with the inserts in the mount when i was fitting it - when bolted up the inserts were a little too long and preventing it from sitting flush - i tested the depth of the hole and their is enough for the bolt although they could do with a few mm off as they are a pain to fit.

Meant to speak to you regarding the prop bearing - how did you know yours had failed as i'm wondering if to replace mine, did you get your gearbox mount sorted?

Spoke to Will earlier, had a good chat and tried a few things - managed to kind of stabilize it more, another tweak with the idle should see it right. If you see this Will many thanks

Thought about that Andy and it may be something i do in the future, back to Koni & Bayjoo springs

 

You really need some form of fuel monitoring gear chris to see whats happening, even if the idle is poor you may find the fuelling is spot on a cruise so you can happily run it in like that untill i can sort it when it gets here.

 

Ive been looking at one of those monitors Mike is selling James is that the kind of thing your talking about?