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I got the exhaust back today, Barry at weldforce in Bordon did a brilliant job and turned it around very quickly. When he cut open the rear section a very sooty screwdriver dropped out LOL, it wasn't a snap on so cannot be Mark Sheads, I guess it was the company Mark used to make it.
I trial fitted but one of the v clamps on the down pipe was really close to bodyshell so seeing as I am nearly £1800 in to the exhaust I thought I might as well cut out a section of the lower engine bay and weld in some room, just in case.
I will finish repainting on Friday and the hopefully fit up the exhaust for the last time.
No worries, no harm done so wouldn't worry. I would only be bothered if a con rod fell out.
I will need to get it back to you soon for the toucan screen to be set up plus a check that the map is still ok with the exhaust mods. It would be good if we can combine with a new intercooler.
Engine is now ticking over at 3000 rpm so I think the hart inlet must have an air leak OR the servo is allowing air in to the inlet so all that is coming off this weekend to be checked.
Clutch leak is now a weep so I think I am close to finishing that.
My mate "the transplanter" on here is coming over tomoz to help out....it is beginning to do my head in now.
Engine is now ticking over at 3000 rpm so I think the hart inlet must have an air leak OR the servo is allowing air in to the inlet so all that is coming off this weekend to be checked.
Clutch leak is now a weep so I think I am close to finishing that.
My mate "the transplanter" on here is coming over tomoz to help out....it is beginning to do my head in now.
Clamp the servo pipe up and see if it changes, Did you use sealer on the bolts that go in to the hart as I have seen these leak.
Clamp the servo pipe up and see if it changes, Did you use sealer on the bolts that go in to the hart as I have seen these leak.
Mark
I did but I am thinking I didn't do enough. I have heard the harts don't have great threads so didnt tighten too much so guessing it is prob that. I will clamp the servo pipe as you suggest.
Thanks for the input Mark, I appreciate you keeping an eye on the thread.
My o ring was very poor! Plus I had to heli coil most of the threads! In the end I used a cosmetic gasket on mine.
Yeah, not impressed with the hart threads, will do overkill just to be sure. One thread has pulled out so will need to helicoil that or retap for m8 as there seems room for it.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 19-07-2015 at 07:26 AM.
Yes. It has a few odd vibrations from the exhaust still touching the bellhousing but only marginally. The brake pedal feels a little long so prob needs another bleed. I only have it in 2wd at the moment as I need to bleed the skyline attesa pump again but that will only take a few mins.
I have put the Evans waterless in now and that all seems fine.
Looking forward to using it in full boost, in anger very soon.
Yes. It has a few odd vibrations from the exhaust still touching the bellhousing but only marginally. The brake pedal feels a little long so prob needs another bleed. I only have it in 2wd at the moment as I need to bleed the skyline attesa pump again but that will only take a few mins.
I have put the Evans waterless in now and that all seems fine.
Looking forward to using it in full boost, in anger very soon.
Brilliant look forward to hearing back on the feed back on the gearbox
Yes. It has a few odd vibrations from the exhaust still touching the bellhousing but only marginally. The brake pedal feels a little long so prob needs another bleed. I only have it in 2wd at the moment as I need to bleed the skyline attesa pump again but that will only take a few mins.
I have put the Evans waterless in now and that all seems fine.
Looking forward to using it in full boost, in anger very soon.
It was odd driving it off the Ramps as I had the front anti roll bar dropped down to check the exhaust clearance and it caught making the rear wheels spin on the low grip garage floor...first time it's done that as only 2wd. The skyline box has been a frustration to get in the 205 she'll but I think the long term will be great.
I am please to report that it shifts through the gears nicely even when cold with shock proof oil in it.
Can't wait to get the skyline box fitted in mine but not gonna start that before ford fair incase there is any issues so will get in it soon as ford fair is over
I fitted orig skyline high tensile bolts to the props today as I wanted the best strength. Now I only need to finish the clutch leak and I am ready to put 500 miles on it before finishing silly little jobs before it goes for pro interior trim. I might try a roof vent before though.
All main bits now sorted, I am now tidying the wiring and will bleed up the attesa pump and calibrate the ets pro once I have glued the sensor in place. Not sure what to use as the ets instruction make it clear how but not what to use.
Ok, it is 2 part epoxy for the yaw sensor so that is easy enough.
Just waiting for the ets pro tech to get bck to me as attesa is giving no more than 250psi and appears to be staying in manual mode. Should be simple to sort though.
Yes, exactly, I think 250psi is giving some 4wd but very rear biased. It should be 500/600 fully locked up on the centre diff. I bled the gauge and I puked a load of air and I have loads of fluid at the 2 attesa bleed nipples but some of the ets functions are not right so I will re check all the wires on weds as I will take most of the day off.
I think I have the clutch leak sorted...in the end I cut off an 11mm spanner and welded it to a lengthy of steel bar, when I ran out of movement I cut the bar and welded at an angle....6 cuts and welds later and the connection was all the way done up.
I'm so pleased that your getting there now Toby you have had your fare share of bad look with this mod but trust me when you drive it you will love this gearbox . Just a quick one as you say the pump is only making 250psi dose the pump run for about 10 seconds then cut off or dose it keep running as the pump should run for about 10 seconds witch in that time the pump will build up to about 550/600psi it hold that back till the solinod is told to open to a set psi 0 to 550/600psi when the pump is told to give 100% it will run again for about 10 seconds to get the psi back up . You could tack the wires off the solinod and put 12 volts to it witch gives it 100% but as said remove the wires as you could back feed into the gearbox controler if you need to chat to me you no my number Toby
Ossie and Mk, I will help in any way that I can...just ask away.
Coley, it runs for about 10 secs and then shuts off, it gets to 250psi in seconds. I am pretty sure this is something odd on the ETS pro as I have a solid blue LED on the auto / manual switch and it should reset to constant colour change (auto) for safety at every start up but it just stays blue. I am waiting for their tech support to reply but will tear down the wires and double check and might fire up the solenoid as you say to check it....I am sure it will be a niggly, silly issue and can always send the ETS for checking / repair as they seem pretty helpful from what I have read on line.
I have been reading all of the ETS site and they seem to think that the centre diff only needs max 250 psi to lock the centre diff even though it is capable of going much higher....Coley, what would you say your 4wd was like at 250psi?
I have been reading all of the ETS site and they seem to think that the centre diff only needs max 250 psi to lock the centre diff even though it is capable of going much higher....Coley, what would you say your 4wd was like at 250psi?
I found a bad Earth on the 2 wd drive switch so that is now sorted. Still waiting on ets to get back to me on the solid blue led issue, it is supposed to change colour the more you dial in manual adjustment or gain in auto mode....I am sure I will fix it soon though.
May have missed it but are you on track at ford fair mate? Or at least going?
I was going but need to cancel, I thought it was Saturday and got a "wife pass" as she is off horse riding as long as I promised family time on Sunday as I have been in the garage a little too much recently. So I am going to spend the Saturday trying to finish the main jobs whilst she is out.
I THINK I may have found the problem by reading all the ets instructions a million times. It say " use the pressure switch to interrupt the voltage on the low side of the relay. "
I think I need to earth one side of the pressure switch and the the other side can earth the relay to drop it in and out...either that or the live side but I think I may have it incorrect at the moment as I wired it ages ago but didn't finish and oddly I forgot to label it all with my dymo..I will check tomorrow.
Still doesn't explain the solid light but maybe the poor earth on the 2wd switch will fix that....check, check and check again as they say in the SAS.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 28-07-2015 at 08:51 PM.
You deserve a medal mate you've sure worked hard for this
Thank You, I often wonder if my lack of mechanics experience causes more work...this, my Grey 205 and my Mk1 Golf Caddy 1.8t have been a steep learning curve. I have got a 944 sitting in my garage waiting to be the next project.
I have been reading all of the ETS site and they seem to think that the centre diff only needs max 250 psi to lock the centre diff even though it is capable of going much higher....Coley, what would you say your 4wd was like at 250psi?
I ran mine at about 120 psi usually (left it on that setting on track), would dial in a bit more if launching (never needed to go above 200 psi), but when fully locked I found when you came on power it would torque steer (6.5" Quaife ATB front diff) which wasn't a pleasant experience when the old T4 came on boost with a bang
My controller was basic though and wasn't "active", I'll be getting either one of the ETS pro controllers or the MapDCCD.com items in the near future.
16-07-2015, 06:29 PM
Not mine I will kick there arse tomorrow.
