6 Degree Beam - info needed
#1
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6 Degree Beam - info needed
im after some views and opinions from people with experience with 6 degree beams
im looking to get a 6 dregree jobby for my 2wd saph (road going car, i dont intend to do any track days i it) but im after
-pro's and con's of having half the arm rose jointed and the other half slotted
- pro's and con's of having both ends of the arms rose jointed
any help and experience would be great
im looking to get a 6 dregree jobby for my 2wd saph (road going car, i dont intend to do any track days i it) but im after
-pro's and con's of having half the arm rose jointed and the other half slotted
- pro's and con's of having both ends of the arms rose jointed
any help and experience would be great
#2
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cheers tony, i have already decided who is going to be making my beam, but i wanted to know was it worth replacing both standard joints with 2 rose jointed ones, would 2 of them not be over kill for a road going car?
#6
No, you can't get as much adjustment using the outer as a rose joint.
We have come across problems adjusting the adrenalin beam with the rose joint inner and outer
We only use a inner joint keeping the brilliant standard ford outer.
There is no difference in accuracy of set up
We have come across problems adjusting the adrenalin beam with the rose joint inner and outer
We only use a inner joint keeping the brilliant standard ford outer.
There is no difference in accuracy of set up
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#9
I'm with Jimbo, I thought adjusting the toe on the outer joint would possibly give problems where the wheel isn't central in the arch. And I'd have thought for road use, a single pair of rose joints would be slightly less harsh!
#10
slotting the beam to allow the correct toe adjustment changes the semitrail arm angle so is no longer a 6 degree beam
designing it properly and correctly with double adjustable rose jionts allows correct geometry setting without moving the pivot points from the set 6 degrees
designing it properly and correctly with double adjustable rose jionts allows correct geometry setting without moving the pivot points from the set 6 degrees
thanks mark
#11
hi tony just a thought ,this 6 degree have you or anyone that you know, done a 4 or 5 degree oneor any other angle to see what changes it makes through its arc because if you plot it out 6 is still a compromise ,i have noticed people seem to just keep doing the same things instead of trying differnt ways also do you not think that if it was designed perfect in the first place why make it adjustable ,just a thought mate
thanks mark
thanks mark
I would imagin that six degree's has been worked out to be a good compromise for road and track use. A zero degree beam would be perfect for drag racing though, similar to a live axle in that it would keep both wheels perpendicular to the track surface.
#15
jim the joints are expensive but your beams are made by another company with that cost plus scs tax and 20% vat your beams will be more than the ones I designed as there is no tony or scs tax or vat
I have nothing to do with the sale of the beam i designed people buy it direct from the manufacturer I was doing the guy a return favour when I helped him with it's design and he is not vat registered so no vat
I have nothing to do with the sale of the beam i designed people buy it direct from the manufacturer I was doing the guy a return favour when I helped him with it's design and he is not vat registered so no vat
#16
Double Spherical bearing all the way, 100% adjustment & security of a locking nut! Slotted works, but is less accurate IMHO. I have a Adrenaline beam on the Escos, and a Zoo beam on the Saff. Have to say I'm VERY happy with the Adrenaline one, very easy to adjust & lock off, had no problems at all getting the Camber & toe I wanted, with all the axle offsets correct & thrust lines correct. All the threads are well in safety with plenty of adjustment left either way.
Zoo beam is not the best quality ever, I would describe the welding as "industrial", and I threw away the crappy Alan key headed adjusters, and made some 42mm (don't ask!) barrel adjusters & locknuts for it, which has made it lots easier to adjust. It also has the Jag diff conversion, so I can't complain for the song I got it for .
The other two things that are VITAL to do is solid mount the massive car to beam joints, the standard ones are shockingly compliant as standard, let alone after 25 years of thrashing, environment & zero maintenance. The other is to fit a poly rear diff, as supplied by Rainbummer or MSD, it makes a world of difference!
For the non believers, jack your car up on the chassis, and get a mate to pull the rear subframe from side to side with you. You will find that the back end moves around like a fat birds arse on a bouncy castle!! The toe changes are scary for a standard beam, and then on top of that you have uncommanded movement from the bushes, I wouldn't be surprised to see over 5 degrees of toe change through the movement! No wonder most cossies feel loose at the back
Rainbum put some figures up for the modded beam, I will see if I can find them.
R4N S, you are doing EXACTLY the wrong thing, beam should be the first mod anyone does!! Everything else is wasted until you can put the power down properly IMHO!
Zoo beam is not the best quality ever, I would describe the welding as "industrial", and I threw away the crappy Alan key headed adjusters, and made some 42mm (don't ask!) barrel adjusters & locknuts for it, which has made it lots easier to adjust. It also has the Jag diff conversion, so I can't complain for the song I got it for .
The other two things that are VITAL to do is solid mount the massive car to beam joints, the standard ones are shockingly compliant as standard, let alone after 25 years of thrashing, environment & zero maintenance. The other is to fit a poly rear diff, as supplied by Rainbummer or MSD, it makes a world of difference!
For the non believers, jack your car up on the chassis, and get a mate to pull the rear subframe from side to side with you. You will find that the back end moves around like a fat birds arse on a bouncy castle!! The toe changes are scary for a standard beam, and then on top of that you have uncommanded movement from the bushes, I wouldn't be surprised to see over 5 degrees of toe change through the movement! No wonder most cossies feel loose at the back
Rainbum put some figures up for the modded beam, I will see if I can find them.
R4N S, you are doing EXACTLY the wrong thing, beam should be the first mod anyone does!! Everything else is wasted until you can put the power down properly IMHO!
Last edited by RWD_cossie_wil; 26-10-2011 at 03:49 PM.
#17
Will, is your rear end on a wrc set up adjusting castor or do you mean camber
Tony. Our beam dosnt NEED the cut outs, the only reason it has them is when we actually went through development with them on a rally car after a harsh landing on the back the rear arms just caught the beam hoop. Obviously ott for the road but what happens if a rally car ended with it on the car and it smacked the beam, wouldn't look good right!
Ps I don't just stick up for our stuff for the sake of it, if I beleive its better Ghent I'll go by what I beleive.
Heres one, speak to AJC and ask him what beam he prefers single or twin. He's had the two "best" beams around and he gives his opinion!
Ps lol at dissin you ugly old git
Tony. Our beam dosnt NEED the cut outs, the only reason it has them is when we actually went through development with them on a rally car after a harsh landing on the back the rear arms just caught the beam hoop. Obviously ott for the road but what happens if a rally car ended with it on the car and it smacked the beam, wouldn't look good right!
Ps I don't just stick up for our stuff for the sake of it, if I beleive its better Ghent I'll go by what I beleive.
Heres one, speak to AJC and ask him what beam he prefers single or twin. He's had the two "best" beams around and he gives his opinion!
Ps lol at dissin you ugly old git
#18
Jim, you are quite right, I meant Camber ... I spoke to AJC at length about his Adrenaline beam, but he never had the car properly set up with it on IIRC, Adrenaline did all the adjustment using measurements? Hence why it never handled as he liked it? To be honest Jim, I would be more than happy with the SCS beam, I am sure they are fantastic quality, whichever one you buy it will make a massive, obvious difference.
The big problem is that, as with my Escos, the entire car is solid mounted bar the rear diff mount, sperical bearing jointed, compression strutted & totally adjustable.
If you do not have a 4 wheel laser alignment done, by a competant garage, it will NEVER handle correctly as there is so much scope for making a total mess of all the individual wheel settings, and thats before you get to the axle alignment & offsets, thrustline and chassis/ Bush deviations! I will post up my alignment results when I get back home, it shows pretty much every possible consideration, and is a very accurate 4 wheel laser system that has the weight on the wheels at all times, with floating beds to prevent incorrect adjustment due to the car not being settled on the suspension correctly!! Just observing the difference tightening a lock nut up makes in real time, or bouncing the car a few times after an adjustment is made to re-settle the car is amazing, the good thing is local to me this service is available for Ł60 an hour!
The big problem is that, as with my Escos, the entire car is solid mounted bar the rear diff mount, sperical bearing jointed, compression strutted & totally adjustable.
If you do not have a 4 wheel laser alignment done, by a competant garage, it will NEVER handle correctly as there is so much scope for making a total mess of all the individual wheel settings, and thats before you get to the axle alignment & offsets, thrustline and chassis/ Bush deviations! I will post up my alignment results when I get back home, it shows pretty much every possible consideration, and is a very accurate 4 wheel laser system that has the weight on the wheels at all times, with floating beds to prevent incorrect adjustment due to the car not being settled on the suspension correctly!! Just observing the difference tightening a lock nut up makes in real time, or bouncing the car a few times after an adjustment is made to re-settle the car is amazing, the good thing is local to me this service is available for Ł60 an hour!
Last edited by RWD_cossie_wil; 26-10-2011 at 04:03 PM.
#20
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thank you for your reply will, that's the sort of reply ive been waiting for
ive noticed recently that my rear end on my saph feels very very uneasy when im changing lanes at speed or i go over a dip in the road, so much so i dont feel confident driving it fast at all
so before anymore power upgrades get done my beam is getting sorted out along with a diff mount and new drop links as mine have seen better days
ive noticed recently that my rear end on my saph feels very very uneasy when im changing lanes at speed or i go over a dip in the road, so much so i dont feel confident driving it fast at all
so before anymore power upgrades get done my beam is getting sorted out along with a diff mount and new drop links as mine have seen better days
#21
so you didn't check full arm travel from droop to bump stops then and rectified the design by hacking a massive section out of the beam
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
tbh all the beams are copies of the Ahmed beam with a different name except some have deleted the cut out, because if they aren't the same there wouldn't be 6degrees angle when you intersect the lines from the bushes across the pinion.
#23
so you didn't check full arm travel from droop to bump stops then and rectified the design by hacking a massive section out of the beam
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
You Cnut!
Basically as below, it was ahmeds design, that was tested on one of our rally cars! not an issue, nor does it weaken it to any extent and like you say, should we have ever had any issues with the scalloped beam then for 99% of the users just leave the beam whole!
Ps what are mot testers like with your beams being ereis a massively visible modification with welds?
#24
so you didn't check full arm travel from droop to bump stops then and rectified the design by hacking a massive section out of the beam
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
my design uses a full section beam
You are more likely to hit the bump stops on a road car with owners super low ride heights and softy sprung compliant suspension and there 3 minging fat birds in the back chavin round Mcdonalds jumping over the speed humps
and you are ugly as well jim because you look like your dad, something you'll have to learn to live with
I said exactly the same thing myself in the last beam post that went on, except the part about mc d's
tbh all the beams are copies of the Ahmed beam with a different name except some have deleted the cut out, because if they aren't the same there wouldn't be 6degrees angle when you intersect the lines from the bushes across the pinion.
tbh all the beams are copies of the Ahmed beam with a different name except some have deleted the cut out, because if they aren't the same there wouldn't be 6degrees angle when you intersect the lines from the bushes across the pinion.
#25
Also. You say about a slotted inner joint being negative. Dependant on the cars body obviously our beam could be better or worse than 6degree.
The 6degree is made bang on the centre of the slot if I am not mistaken. And with it being toe adjustable on that slow a tiny tiny amount makes a big difference as it's across the arm. So if your being anal about it it could be a 5.8-6.2 for example
The 6degree is made bang on the centre of the slot if I am not mistaken. And with it being toe adjustable on that slow a tiny tiny amount makes a big difference as it's across the arm. So if your being anal about it it could be a 5.8-6.2 for example
#31
Jim don't get bitchy now
my beam design looks pucka and has full suspension travel
it is also welded by a coded welder not soneone that just has a mig the fittings are made by an aerospace company
I'm sure your dad has no problem mot ing your beams I don't do mot's
The mot tester who tested a car with my beam design was very impressed but he wasn't biased
My beam design is not a copy of ahmeds it looks nothing like his at least ours is exactly 6 degrees
and for less money you get two free extra high quality rose joints all rubber booted for road use and some free ring dings
Jay that feels so good don't stop the rimming I like it
my beam design looks pucka and has full suspension travel
it is also welded by a coded welder not soneone that just has a mig the fittings are made by an aerospace company
I'm sure your dad has no problem mot ing your beams I don't do mot's
The mot tester who tested a car with my beam design was very impressed but he wasn't biased
My beam design is not a copy of ahmeds it looks nothing like his at least ours is exactly 6 degrees
and for less money you get two free extra high quality rose joints all rubber booted for road use and some free ring dings
Jay that feels so good don't stop the rimming I like it
#32
Jim don't get bitchy now
my beam design looks pucka and has full suspension travel
it is also welded by a coded welder not soneone that just has a mig the fittings are made by an aerospace company
I'm sure your dad has no problem mot ing your beams I don't do mot's
The mot tester who tested a car with my beam design was very impressed but he wasn't biased
My beam design is not a copy of ahmeds it looks nothing like his at least ours is exactly 6 degrees
and for less money you get two free extra high quality rose joints all rubber booted for road use and some free ring dings
Jay that feels so good don't stop the rimming I like it
my beam design looks pucka and has full suspension travel
it is also welded by a coded welder not soneone that just has a mig the fittings are made by an aerospace company
I'm sure your dad has no problem mot ing your beams I don't do mot's
The mot tester who tested a car with my beam design was very impressed but he wasn't biased
My beam design is not a copy of ahmeds it looks nothing like his at least ours is exactly 6 degrees
and for less money you get two free extra high quality rose joints all rubber booted for road use and some free ring dings
Jay that feels so good don't stop the rimming I like it
Our welder is coded Tony, you think we'd have some muppet with a mig and tig weld it on?
I suppose its down to what people want, a tried and tested component or something a bit cheaper.
People can make their own minds up
#34
#36
Ps, tell them to hurry up with mikes if fed up of pushing it in and out already
#37
what ! are you younger in the mind than i think ? its easy jim i have had plenty of practice dealing with infants and imature sarcasim and talking to them at there level as i have had 2 kids so comunicating with you and you childish remarks comes second nature ! but if you want a adult conversation then please fell free to act like one as im sure Harvey didnt bring you up to behave like the normal chavvy arsehole hey
#40
what ! are you younger in the mind than i think ? its easy jim i have had plenty of practice dealing with infants and imature sarcasim and talking to them at there level as i have had 2 kids so comunicating with you and you childish remarks comes second nature ! but if you want a adult conversation then please fell free to act like one as im sure Harvey didnt bring you up to behave like the normal chavvy arsehole hey
Chavvey arse hole, nice!