BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

I know theirs a million threads but most replies are with the engine in the car.

Mine is out and stiff as fuck - tried a bolt on the fly side and jammed against the engine stand and it bends the spanner tried a snap on impact gun and nothing.

Any tips - it's not an left hand thread is it??

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

It's a normal thread, not cack handed.

If it were still in the car I'd have suggested a big ass breaker bar with it in gear and someone standing on the brakes. As it's not I'll suggest reinstalling it then use a big ass breaker bar with it in gear and someone standing on the brakes.

If it's got threadlock on it you'll need some proper torque to crack it out, that or heat it up maybe?

JonathanJ

I would say use a proper flywheel locking tool and the big ass breaker bar as mentioned above with a couple of mates holding engine for good measure , it will be tight , but it will go , even if you have to put some load on it then get one of said friends to give the breaker bar a wack and I do not mean in direction of removal , I mean towards the flywheel , sometimes the shock does the trick

white2lsr

iTrader: (1)

He could strugle as he has none of the underlined

BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

OOOOoohhhhhh!!!!! you bitch - you'll come crying back in a couple of weeks when the Neds start picking on you for being English and taking their jobs

cozzy jeff

iTrader: (4)

brammer i took mine off when my engine was attached to the engine crane,i jammed the flywheel and used a ring spanner on the bolt and shocked it off with a mash hammer.

left hooker

clout the bolt head afew times to see if it shocks it lose

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

Drill a piece of flat bar and bolt it to the flywheel to turn it into a big handle, lock this against the floor or get someone to hold it and get a big breaker bar on the pulley end.

either that or a big impact gun.

v man

stop being a pussy and just undo it

tabetha

I assume the engine is out the car for some engine work ?, is the sump coming off, if so simply take off a rod cap off after removing sump, and put a strong piece of wood in the gap where the rod was so it lies across the flats of the block base, undo easy that way, done other engines this way.
Don't use loctite when reassembling, it's seriously not needed.
tabetha

BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

The sump is off but i can't picture what you mean?

The Youth.

iTrader: (1)

he means jam a bit of 4b2 into the engine around the crank to stop it turning

steve

richard youll

i have in the past put large breaker bar on pully bolt rest against the floor and just turn the ignition key all ways works a treat, was the quickest way on the 1.8 cvh sierras too when doing cam belt!!

botters

iTrader: (2)

aye ive done that a few times myself

BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

I'll have to have a look tomorrow but do you have to remove anything or just jam one of the rods?

botters

iTrader: (2)

tbh mate you shouldnt have any trouble with your electric snap on gun so long as your battery is fully charged as mine removes them no problem, just make sure you are using an impact socket as a lot of tourqe is wasted through non impact type, mine removes vw lt crank bolts easily and they are tourqed to 520nm!

tabetha

You don't jam one of the rods, imagine the engine in a engine stand upside down so sump is uppermost, remove the sump, rotate so 2 pistons are at bdc take off one of the big end caps of one of these, and push the piston down the bore by the rod, look straight across the block crouching down, now insert a really good bit of wood, hard wood is best through the gap where the rod went so it rests on the block bottom faces each side, then when you rotate the crank the big end JOURNAL of the "missing" rod/piston will contact the wood, this will stop it from turning, allowing much more force to be applied safely to the crank bolt.
tabetha