500bhp how much?
17-02-2008, 05:43 PM
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500bhp how much?
how much would it cost to build a 500bhp reliable cosworth engine (estimate) from people who have done this..
not interested in top speed but a lot of torque and no turbo lag so was wondering what turbo would be best and also what compression would i want the engine to be?
any help would be much appreciated!
not interested in top speed but a lot of torque and no turbo lag so was wondering what turbo would be best and also what compression would i want the engine to be?
any help would be much appreciated!
17-02-2008, 05:53 PM
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thanks for the reply.. would be a self build possibly.. this is why i was wondering costs.. am interested in hearing from anyone that has done this. thanks
17-02-2008, 06:42 PM
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7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
17-02-2008, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
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17-02-2008, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
think i might shit a brick at getting it done by martin though money wise because he is so good, but could be wrong.....
17-02-2008, 07:33 PM
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do it once... do it right! Normally cheaper in long run as well
mine has been amazing. If you are local to Essex you can have a demo. You REALLY don't need any more... I had over 600bhp on a GT35... but this engine spec is FAR FAR better and faster 99% of the time
mine has been amazing. If you are local to Essex you can have a demo. You REALLY don't need any more... I had over 600bhp on a GT35... but this engine spec is FAR FAR better and faster 99% of the time
17-02-2008, 07:52 PM
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theres no tight budget, just dont want it to spiral out of control, i am also just about to get quaife dogbox which has been in a cossie running about 580..so that bit should be sorted...
17-02-2008, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
17-02-2008, 08:05 PM
#16
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i remember reading an advert a couple of years ago that quoted £12000 as a starting price depending on the condition of your existing engine for a complete 600bhp rebuild. no idea of how reputable the garage was.is that about right these days or has it risen drastically ?
18-02-2008, 01:51 PM
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Porkie has given good advice but doen bother with the old
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
18-02-2008, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by yardy2186
Porkie has given good advice but doen bother with the old
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
18-02-2008, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
18-02-2008, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Yeti Racing
Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
18-02-2008, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
)...
18-02-2008, 03:58 PM
#25
Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
Martin at Reyland. Job done.
18-02-2008, 04:47 PM
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The secondary question should be
"How fast can I afford to go?"
As with most modifications at this level..... the engine is only part of the equation. You could end up doubling or even trippling the price dependant on your intended use and what needs to be done to the rest of the car to cope with this kind of power level.
Nothing comes cheap..... you have been warned!
Don't skimp and do it right. It could all end in tears otherwise.
"How fast can I afford to go?"
As with most modifications at this level..... the engine is only part of the equation. You could end up doubling or even trippling the price dependant on your intended use and what needs to be done to the rest of the car to cope with this kind of power level.
Nothing comes cheap..... you have been warned!
Don't skimp and do it right. It could all end in tears otherwise.
18-02-2008, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by yardy2186
Porkie has given good advice but doen bother with the old
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
cossie ecu they are ok but technology has moved on too
much and their capabilities arent that great anymore
as to the inlet the escos small turbo inlet is going to give
less lag as the swedish inlket takes time to fill up due to size
but you could always stroke it to say 2.2 like rainbird has as
this give the best comprimise between response and being
able to rev other than that speak to martoon as he is a
reputable engine builder and seriously sonsider the skyline
'box conversion as it will give you twin syncros and is strong
too!
Closed loop, Launch control etc etc and they just WORK sooo well with Cossies as the transient fueling is funnily enough factory!
Disagree with the 2.2 bollocks as well.. over complicated and expensive! My engine is NUTS... you would never need more on the road.
Its been BOMBPROOF as well! feels like it could on forever!!!!
18-02-2008, 05:05 PM
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Ok then... to play devils advocate again. I have been told by a very well known tuner that you could get away with running a higher comp if you had Pectel T6 over say L8. I forget the reason; I think because it computes faster I guess so you have a more accurate map. This is a TOTAL guess though as I can't really remember
?
?
18-02-2008, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
Name me ONE thing you want that the Level 8 can't do!?!??!?
More if you want .... (No diss to L8 though, as I agree with what you say)
Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
Ok then... to play devils advocate again. I have been told by a very well known tuner that you could get away with running a higher comp if you had Pectel T6 over say L8. I forget the reason; I think because it computes faster I guess so you have a more accurate map. This is a TOTAL guess though as I can't really remember
?
?
18-02-2008, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
Ok then... to play devils advocate again. I have been told by a very well known tuner that you could get away with running a higher comp if you had Pectel T6 over say L8. I forget the reason; I think because it computes faster I guess so you have a more accurate map. This is a TOTAL guess though as I can't really remember
?
?
TOTAL bollox
18-02-2008, 05:17 PM
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NOT engine advantages! Arguably MUCH more reputable than them!
Like I said. dont pay any attention to the reason as thats my guess to it BUT I was told about the CR and ECU link!!!!!
Like I said. dont pay any attention to the reason as thats my guess to it
BUT I was told about the CR and ECU link!!!!!
18-02-2008, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
Ok then... to play devils advocate again. I have been told by a very well known tuner that you could get away with running a higher comp if you had Pectel T6 over say L8. I forget the reason; I think because it computes faster I guess so you have a more accurate map. This is a TOTAL guess though as I can't really remember
?
?
18-02-2008, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JAP CRAP
NOT engine advantages! Arguably MUCH more reputable than them!
Like I said. dont pay any attention to the reason as thats my guess to it BUT I was told about the CR and ECU link!!!!!
Like I said. dont pay any attention to the reason as thats my guess to it
BUT I was told about the CR and ECU link!!!!!
18-02-2008, 07:01 PM
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Given to me that sounds like a fairly basic spec for the power produced, does this mean the cost isn't completly silly? - I'd imagine the head work would be a grand, and a suitable turbo / to be roughly the same, but assuming you've got a decent breather / sump setup the above otherwise sounds like a standard, low comp bottom end rebuild? (sure i've probably got the wrong end of the stick - just trying to work out numbers in my head.... )
)
18-02-2008, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Rolls
Given to me that sounds like a fairly basic spec for the power produced, does this mean the cost isn't completly silly? - I'd imagine the head work would be a grand, and a suitable turbo / to be roughly the same, but assuming you've got a decent breather / sump setup the above otherwise sounds like a standard, low comp bottom end rebuild? (sure i've probably got the wrong end of the stick - just trying to work out numbers in my head.... )
)Can anyone give a rough cost? If it helps my engine is a strong stage 3 rebuilt 12k ago. Although it is a 205 block, so maybe a few more quid for a 200 block.
18-02-2008, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
7.2-1 comp ratio, std crank and rods, flowed head, GT30 preferably external gated. 4 big injectors using level 8. Swedish or small escos inlet and get it properly assembled with good gaskets and ancillaries and you get a monsterous 550bhp reliable ANIMAL of an engine...
On my gt-35 engine it comes on boost @ 2700rpm and makes full boost @ 3800 rpm, so real pleased.
Ecu wise, well have seen some sweedish cars on std p8 with over 500bhp, so would just use what u have now
18-02-2008, 07:17 PM
#40
Originally Posted by MadRod
Get a GT35 done correctly & it will kill a GT30 99% of the time. FACT.
not sure that was what porkie as trying to say rod , he said with the gt30 its fatster , probabbly as a overall driving package ,
more useable = faster round track ect .