shaun

Hi,
My RST cut out today and after a few checks I found that there was no spark at the spark plugs and no spark at the coil HT lead but there IS 12V at the coil '+' , I tried another coil but it was the same as the other one No spark, Im now thinking it may be the distributor ?? or maybe the silver E.C.U ??? , anyone had this problem before?? cheers.

gavintwopies

yes m8 i have....................

try this check the continuity of the green wire from the other side of the coil to the main plug that goes to the metal ecu as the ecu controls the earth for the coil to fire.
My m8s had this problem this week and we couldnt get it to start simple fix if you take the rubber boot of the back of the ecu main plug you will see it its the pin with a green wire and green with red stripe wire coming out .
The green and red strip wire goes to the purple fuel pump relay plug while the green wire runs round the engine bay all the way to the coil, taped to the out side of the loom so its easy to cut out and throw away once fixed.

shaun

Cheers mate i'll check that

rst steve

I had this problem with mine turned out to be dizzy. Bought a new one never had it since

bassboy

yep same problem not so long ago...changed distributor and no probs since touch wood lol

bassboy

shaun

Is there anyway the check the distributor ? and does anyone know how much roughly a new one is?

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

Take the cap off and check the spring loaded pin in the centre is still okay and making contact. Chect the rotor arm on the dizzy is okay and not worn out at the end too

rst steve

Mine was Ł77 plus vat from local motor factor

davidreader5

HI,

IF YOU NEED NEW HALL SWITCH (INTERNAL PART) FOR DIZZY , EASY
TO FIT A COUPLE OF SCREWS I HAVE A NEW ONE AT 1/2 THE PRICE ABOVE.

DAVE R,

davie0146

i have had probs with mine

got this from th rs owners club but it was from DAZC
have you had the timing checked as this and the dizzy is what was causing mine to conk out

if you remove the ECU plug to the silver ECU (which is the ignition ECU) all the pins are numbered with very small numbers....check the wires are continuous from the ECU to its component it connects to....an electrical type person will know what to do

Pin 1----should have a green wire from it to the coil negative. connect a test lamp to this and crank the engine...it should flash...if it stays constant you have a fault

Pin2----should have a brown wire to it and be connected to ground (earth or negative....vehicle body)

Pin6----ignore

Pin7----should have a black/red trace wire to it and go to a pin on the distridutor

Pin12----ignore

Pin13----should have a black wire from it and it goes to pin 87 on a relay which i think is the relay betewwn the 2 ECUs'.....this relay will have a red connected to pin 30 and that red has a battery live feed. pin 85 of that relay should be brown and to ground. pin 86 of that relay is fed from the ignition switch and this is the power up system for the ECU....basicaly when you switch your ignition on the ECU powers up (with igniton on it should have 12volts to it with the ECU connected

Pin14----should have a brown and connected to ground exactly like pin 2

Pin15----should be brown and goes to the distributor plug

Pin20----should have a green/yellow trace wire to to it and this goes to 3 locations....1 is pin 25 of the fuel ECU...another is the final pin on the distributor plug and the other is to pin 1 on the fuel pump relay

Pin25----ignore

all the pins used on the ignition ECU are listed up there...the ones i have told you to ignore are for coolant temp sensors and the amal valve...the rest are empty slots

so basically check that the green wire flashes with the test lamp when the engine is cranked over (with everything still connected) if it doesnt then check pins 2 and 14 have a good earth and that pin 13 has live to it when the ignition is switched on. if they have then make sure the green wire hasnt broken between the ECU and the coil by doing a continuety check with a mulitmeter. if thats ok then its time to look at the trigger (sensor in the distributor)....check that the wires from pins 7, 14 and 20 are all continuous to the distributor plug if they are then your looking at either an ECU fault or a faulty dizzy.......all this will only apply if there is NO spark from the coil at all when cranked

if the test lamp flashes(an even constant flash) with it connected in parallel to the green wire on the coil when the engine is cranked over that indicates that all the electronics are working and the coil should be sparking.

with the ignition on there should be a live to the positive side of the coil which is a black wire......(the green is on the other side)...if there isnt then there is a fault on that wire.......it is an ignition switched feed



a control unit???......not according to the wiring diagrams......the ignition feed just branches out in various directions to where it needs to go.....check there is feed on the black wire to the coil before you go hunting....and also that the ECU has power to pin 13 like i said in my first post........that little black box is a suppressor i think....however if you disconnect it and connect the 2 plugs together...basically bypassing it and cutting it out of the equation.....it MAY have become high resistance and is stopping power from reaching the coil

there are 2 ECUs......behind the heater box......the black Bosch one is the fuel ECU.....the silver Ford ESC 2 module is the ignition ECU....its the ESC 2 module that you need to look at

if the signal isnt getting from the dizzy to the ECU it cant tell the coil when to fire a spark....(check all 3 wires to the ECU)
at the same time if the coil has no igniton feed it cant fire a spark (check power to the positive on the coil)
and if the ecu hasnt powered up it cant do anything (check the 2 earths on pins 2 and 14 and also for live with ignition on on pin 13)
also if the ECU is telling the coil to fire a spark but the coil isnt getting that message the coil wont fire (check the green wire to pin 1)

also the dizzy....usually if i remember correctly the brown is an earth through the ECU...the black/red trace is a live fed from the ECU and the centre is the signal to pin 20........if the sensor in the dizzy isnt powering up it wont work and also at the same time if the signal isnt getting to the ECU the ECU wont know when to tell the coil to fire.....

get the wiring tested.......
Connect a test light to the positive terminal on the battery, remove the green (-) wire from the coin and put the testlight into the plug. Get someone to turn the engine over, the testlight should flash.

If not then you are lookin at a defrecive dizzy, ignition ecu or a broken wire.
phase sensor in the dizzy that had gone.
to prove it turn on ignition and fit a wire to middle wire out of 3 on sensor and keep dabbing it down to earth with a plug removed so that you see if it sparks. if it does the sensor is u/s.
hth

shaun

All sorted now , it turned out to be the distributor after all it now runs sweet as a nut Thanks for all the advise everyone

Martingray1988

I have a similar issue to this if I take the fuel pump relay out so the fuel pump does not work I have a strong spark but when the fuel pump is working the spark goes very weak

OAP Pete

Hear is the Test you can do......Have the King lead out of the Distributor set up ready to view the H/T spark..ie close to the car frame...unplug the Distributor 3 pin plug, you will see a "Brown wire" thats earth".....a "Black/Red wire" thats live with ignition on ...but only 4/5 vots.....important to check this [test this with meter as if this is "low"...then fault in ECU ]....and a "Green/yellow wire"...thats pulse to the ECU, to test you need a 12v test lamp..with the ignition on test lamp on earth...probe the Pin of Green/yellow..off & on..quickly..you should see a strong spark and Hear the Fuel pump relay "click in"....Pump buzz ....this says...ECU all OK..wiring all OK...you have fault in Distributor...i suspect this. hope of help ... Peter