i have had probs with mine

got this from th rs owners club but it was from DAZC
have you had the timing checked as this and the dizzy is what was causing mine to conk out

if you remove the ECU plug to the silver ECU (which is the ignition ECU) all the pins are numbered with very small numbers....check the wires are continuous from the ECU to its component it connects to....an electrical type person will know what to do

Pin 1----should have a green wire from it to the coil negative. connect a test lamp to this and crank the engine...it should flash...if it stays constant you have a fault

Pin2----should have a brown wire to it and be connected to ground (earth or negative....vehicle body)

Pin6----ignore

Pin7----should have a black/red trace wire to it and go to a pin on the distridutor

Pin12----ignore

Pin13----should have a black wire from it and it goes to pin 87 on a relay which i think is the relay betewwn the 2 ECUs'.....this relay will have a red connected to pin 30 and that red has a battery live feed. pin 85 of that relay should be brown and to ground. pin 86 of that relay is fed from the ignition switch and this is the power up system for the ECU....basicaly when you switch your ignition on the ECU powers up (with igniton on it should have 12volts to it with the ECU connected

Pin14----should have a brown and connected to ground exactly like pin 2

Pin15----should be brown and goes to the distributor plug

Pin20----should have a green/yellow trace wire to to it and this goes to 3 locations....1 is pin 25 of the fuel ECU...another is the final pin on the distributor plug and the other is to pin 1 on the fuel pump relay

Pin25----ignore

all the pins used on the ignition ECU are listed up there...the ones i have told you to ignore are for coolant temp sensors and the amal valve...the rest are empty slots

so basically check that the green wire flashes with the test lamp when the engine is cranked over (with everything still connected) if it doesnt then check pins 2 and 14 have a good earth and that pin 13 has live to it when the ignition is switched on. if they have then make sure the green wire hasnt broken between the ECU and the coil by doing a continuety check with a mulitmeter. if thats ok then its time to look at the trigger (sensor in the distributor)....check that the wires from pins 7, 14 and 20 are all continuous to the distributor plug if they are then your looking at either an ECU fault or a faulty dizzy.......all this will only apply if there is NO spark from the coil at all when cranked

if the test lamp flashes(an even constant flash) with it connected in parallel to the green wire on the coil when the engine is cranked over that indicates that all the electronics are working and the coil should be sparking.

with the ignition on there should be a live to the positive side of the coil which is a black wire......(the green is on the other side)...if there isnt then there is a fault on that wire.......it is an ignition switched feed



a control unit???......not according to the wiring diagrams......the ignition feed just branches out in various directions to where it needs to go.....check there is feed on the black wire to the coil before you go hunting....and also that the ECU has power to pin 13 like i said in my first post........that little black box is a suppressor i think....however if you disconnect it and connect the 2 plugs together...basically bypassing it and cutting it out of the equation.....it MAY have become high resistance and is stopping power from reaching the coil

there are 2 ECUs......behind the heater box......the black Bosch one is the fuel ECU.....the silver Ford ESC 2 module is the ignition ECU....its the ESC 2 module that you need to look at

if the signal isnt getting from the dizzy to the ECU it cant tell the coil when to fire a spark....(check all 3 wires to the ECU)
at the same time if the coil has no igniton feed it cant fire a spark (check power to the positive on the coil)
and if the ecu hasnt powered up it cant do anything (check the 2 earths on pins 2 and 14 and also for live with ignition on on pin 13)
also if the ECU is telling the coil to fire a spark but the coil isnt getting that message the coil wont fire (check the green wire to pin 1)

also the dizzy....usually if i remember correctly the brown is an earth through the ECU...the black/red trace is a live fed from the ECU and the centre is the signal to pin 20........if the sensor in the dizzy isnt powering up it wont work and also at the same time if the signal isnt getting to the ECU the ECU wont know when to tell the coil to fire.....

get the wiring tested.......
Connect a test light to the positive terminal on the battery, remove the green (-) wire from the coin and put the testlight into the plug. Get someone to turn the engine over, the testlight should flash.

If not then you are lookin at a defrecive dizzy, ignition ecu or a broken wire.
phase sensor in the dizzy that had gone.
to prove it turn on ignition and fit a wire to middle wire out of 3 on sensor and keep dabbing it down to earth with a plug removed so that you see if it sparks. if it does the sensor is u/s.
hth