Red_bull

Hello guys,

I'm despred for some help so please read this!

My car has been on the dyno quite a while ago putting out 181 bhp and 295 nm as you can see on the blue lines here



After the set up i changed my oilpump, because i thought to see that my oil pressure was a bit low (no oil light, but seen from a VDO meter)

Next oil pump same thing on the meter, but also it seemed that i had less power, so i thought that my timing changed by accident while the timing belt had been off.

To be sure about the oilpressure i orderd a new one which a recieved last week and so i went to the dyno yesterday.

1st run 151 bhp and 225 nm, so i thought yeah there is indeed power to gain and it wasn't just my thought that i was slower.

BUT here's the problem:

We just can't get a good set up on it! On high revs turbo pressure is dropping much more as it did during the first set up. Also the camshaft timing doesn't seem to change the peak in the powercurve, which i think is really strange

We have by passed the amal valve, but (with the much lower boost) it also seemed to drop on high revs

We have monitored the actuator pressure which seems to drop so the wategate should close op the moment that boost drops

We have measured inlet temps which seems to be fine

we have tried lots of camshaft settings with same timing, but the peak looks like it stays quite on the same place. I expecet much more movement in the power curve

Also lamba seems to be quite ok, not the problem i my view

I just can't get my head around what the problem can be!

We stopped at 5 o clock yesterday and we will continue on mondayevening, but i have no idea where to look for the problem

These where the first and the last run from yesterday


Is my camshaft fucked? Are my electronics holding him back on ignition?

Engine spec is
1600 8v
Chipped ECU
Flowed head
285t camshaft

Turbo spec
TOB32
T03B as
360degr bearing
exhausthouse .48
inlethouse Z32 + compressorwheel



As you can imagine i'm still on the dyno with a big bill waiting for me and no results. I hope somebody can give me the right tip where to look for this problem or what to try on set up

PLEASE HELP

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

So basically you are not holding boot pressure...
Yes it could be the camshaft, could also be the actuator, a cracked manifold, boost leak somewhere, etc..
What are you using for boost control?

Red_bull

i'm not holding boost, but it also looks like i'm missing lots of power on the lower revs

boostcontrol is by amal valve it's almost a std engine

You don't hear a leak from anywhere and also it's strange that it holds that peak everytime around the same revs. If it was a leak i would say that peak wouldn't be there

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

sounds like actuators weak and ive always thrown away the amal valve as they are crap and just fitted a bleed valve....

a mate of mine had a worn cam lobe and that made his lose power and if you had poor oil pressure it could be your problem mate also is it a rs specialist setting the car up as they would find the problem in 5 mins

Red_bull

actuator was brand new before the first set up..

So losing the amal valve is a option can't i connect it direct on the inlet part of the turbo?

It's not a rs specialist but we don't have any in the netherlands!

Also there has always been oil pressure but on my VDO with a 0 to 10 bar scale it was a difficult read out and i chose to put on a brand new one now

rsmark86

iTrader: (3)

ok the best way to lose the amal valve is to take it out and fit a 2 way bleed valve and then block the hose that goes to the metering head .and just not run a amal valve as not many tuners leave them fitted anyway.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Nothing wrong with the amal valve, and it keeps a bit of safety if the ECU see's knock or high ACT's and can then shut the boost down.
Besides which this has nothing to do with your problem lol

You may not hear a leak so pressure test the intake system to be sure.
Have you done a compression test?

It could be the ECU pulling timing back yes (again knock sensor, ACT sensor, or faulty ECU), put a timing light on it whilst doing a run and you will see.

Red_bull

i did a compression test a while ago and then it was good. Could it be a faulty knock sensor? Is it placed on all cvh's? i don't remember where it would be...

We took ATC with a fluke meter, so it's not a quick reading maybe going to do that again... it stayed on the fluke on 31 degrees maximum

i wouldn't know why my ECU would be fucked now. i have had a couple of wires which where bad, but i fixed that and that normaly would not fuck up my ECU

adduk

Is the rollers the same as the one you used when you first had it setup or have they changed at all, dont shoot me down here but could it not be a case of the first setup been abit healthy with the results and now the new rollers are giving you a more accurate result for your engine spec.

Just wouldnt a 180bhp car need a better spec? it doesnt have a uprated intercooler by the spec listed.

cheers adam

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I would agree, but it's a bigger turbo than standard (looks similair to a stage 3), ACT's are around 31deg and you can see the IC in his sig (I think thats his car) and the problem is it's not holding boost like it did before.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Knock sensor is on the right hand end of the inlet manifold (green plug) only later S2's have them.
The ECU is 20+ years old you dont have to do anything it could just be faulty.

As I said above, pressure test the inlet system, and check the timing when doing a run, then go from there...

Red_bull

ow now i see that i forgot to say that i changed from a GRS IC on the first set up to a Airtec new one on this set up.

I went to a other tuner because of a lack of cooling by my first tuner. The tuner i have now has a superflow dyno, so no mess and also better cooling.

Besides a dyno change the powercurve should change much more when timing is changed and my boost needs to be hold more!

I'm going back tomorrow with a other ECU; Ignition and going to set the camshaft roughly to make sure we are close to what it needs to be. Also i'm going to check for leaks



A other point that i would like a answer from somebody does the amalvalve control change when you pull off the connector?

adduk

is the intercooler new or second hand? could the intercooler have a hole in it?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

The new IC could be the cause of the boost drop, I dont know how restrictive they are compared to the GRS, might just need to increase pre-load on the actuator, different dyno's can make a BIG difference to your power (5-50bhp) depending on the operator too!
If you unplug the amal the boost should be lower yes.

Red_bull

Yeah it could cause a boost drop and i see that because my peak boost is 0,1 bar lower. I can solve that problem, but resistance can't increase in such a big way at higher revs in my opinion.

If i bypass my amal valve the boost is lower, but when i disconnect it nothing happens! Is my amal valve f*cked?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Why not? At higher revs you need greater flow, so the restriction would be amplified.
Sounds like the Amal is stuck open, not a problem really, just like having a fixed position bleed valve.

Red_bull

Just opent another thread to expand my knowledge about the system on the MFI

https://passionford.com/forum/ford-e...ml#post5118935

Think i can use that knowledge tonight!

Red_bull

Yeah that's true indeed, but i think the drop is to great for the revs that go past... Also it looks that it goes up just before the limiter...


So it would be better to fit a other amal valve then? I don't know his way of functioning. Is it that now my inlet en actuator are connected with a blowoff to the inlet by a spring and something that the ECU controlls?

Sorry but lots of this is difficult to understand for me because my english isn't that great

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

The Amal just bleeds a little air off to the metering unit so the actuator see less pressure and opens later.
The ECU can close this and so the boost pressure will drop because the actuator see true compressor pressure, and opens earlier.

Red_bull

and if i pull of the connector from the amal valve it should close and let the actuator see the real pressure, but that doesn't work then?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Correct, your Amal valve sounds like it is stuck open.