Hi peeps,

Been doing a lot of work to my 4x4 cossie lately which includes new oil pump, sump gasket, front subframe and arb powder coated and a general clean up ect ect. I sealed my sump last week and did everything needed to just start the car ie I fitted the subframe but left everything else off and sat the car on a jack. Car started fine I was happy with it no leaks ect and made good pressure.

Now this week I finished putting everything back on including steering rack, suspension, brakes ect. I was under the dash board as I was fitting a new steering column bulkhead bearing. This gives you an idea of what has changed since it started last week.

Tried starting the car but nothing, doesn't turn over and the fuel pump doesn't prime? My battery has good voltage ect, the immobiliser is disarming as it should so I know it isn't that. My fuel pump is direct from the battery and I'm sure the fuel inertia switch has been cut out in the past as its not in the boot.

Any suggestions?

 

Check TPS gap.

 

Earth strap been disrturbed if its not turning over?

 

Good call... did'nt read the post properly.

 

Cheers lads I was thinking I have disturbed something, I was in about the oil pressure switch area aswell I think there's a little earth there but I checked it and it was connected. Fuel pump not priming is strange.

 

Is there an inertia switch like the 2wd cars that may need resetting (pressing button) for the fuel pump ?

 

That wouldnt stop it turning over, easiest thing is trace out the starter wires, once you've sorted that chances are you'll have found the issue and it'll be running again

 

If you turn the ignition switch to II, do all the lights on the dash come on? If you were working near the steering column, you might have disturbed the connector to the ignition switch. It would explain why the starter isn't turning and why the fuel pump is not priming.

 

Cheers for the input guys when I'm back from work I'll take the steering wheel off and all the plastics to give me a better idea.

 

You say you've been working in the drivers footwell, check the ford immobiliser module connection, it's on the rear of the lower drivers dash plastic, it stops the car winding over and disables the fuel pump if it's not plugged in

 

Cheers mate I'll check that when I'm home I don't get back from work until Friday. I defo think its something like that as that will be the only electricals I've toiched (bumped into) since it started fine last week.

When you turn the key to the start position the dash lights temporary go out till you let the key go.

 

that sounds like ignition switch.

 

Thats a flat battery....

Edit: Seen you say the battery has good voltage so maybe not...

 

 

Cheers mate I'll check that inertia switch once in home take its in the drivers side footwell?

 

Behind the drivers side kick panel, the inertia switch only cuts the fuel pump but it's worth a check

 

If it doesn't crank over you don't need to look at fuel cut, that doesn't stop it cranking over.

Check the starter has both cables attached, the large battery connection, and the small trigger feed. from there, check the trigger is getting 12v on crank over.

 

Thanks James I won't be able to check till tomorrow unfortunately, that wouldn't stop my fuel pump from priming would it? I'm thinking ignition switch area is a strong contender for a loose wire ect?

Thanks for your help.

 

You would still get an initial pump prime on ign, but then nothing until the ecu sees a crank sensor signal.
It's a weird one. Alarm unit maybe? The usual immobiliser cuts are starter crank feed and fuel pump on the cossie

 

I've got an autowatch alarm on it that's less than a year old and the blue immobiliser light goes out as it should when I disarm it so I'm gonna assume it's ok.

I couldn't help myself so went out to have another look, I fitted another ignition switch out my other saff to try it and no difference. When I turn the key I can hear a buzzing sound from under the dash area so I lay across the driver seat and put my head under the dash (wasn't comfy lol) while turning the key and I couldn't pinpoint exactly where the noise was coming from.

I recorded a video of it just waiting on photobucket now lol.

Thanks

 

Don't overlook the battery, the fact it 'appears' to have power means nothing, as that is without load.

Also check the said immobiliser (if still fitted) hasn't been disturbed, but this does not explain the lights.

FYI, you car does not have the cut out in boot, 4x4 had them in the kick trim instead.


Martin

 

Buzzing could be a knackered immobi relay or lack battery power as Martin has suggested causing it to not latch.
?
Starter and fuel is the 2 curcuits which are immobilised..

 

Cheers mate I'm just going out to give it a once over again I'll check the original imobiliser and battery voltage ect. The alarm installer told me if I have problems with the original immobiliser I just need to cut 1 wire and it's then disabled but I honestly can't remember what wire he told me lol brown or yellow rings a bell.

 

Little update, unplugged original immobiliser box and plugged in a spare one I had and it made no difference. Then tested the ecu voltage between pin 19&20 and its zero. Then used a link wire from pin 1 to 10 and I couldn't hear any clicking.

Am I right in saying the ecu relay is under the passenger foot well and is yellow in colour?

Only wire I seen knocked off was a red wire going from the ignition switch area to a new fuse box in the glove box. I couldn't work out what terminal on the ignition switch it had broken off so I've touched it off each of the four terminals and it seems less irratic on the black wire with blue trace so I crimped it temporarily and still no difference.

Again I've checked all fuses and battery is plugged into charger so getting 13v through that, with just the keys in the ignition I was getting battery volts to my starter which I thought would only happen when the key is in the start position.

Also couldn't find inertia switch anywhere and I've got the drivers side kick panel off so I'm guessing it's been bypassed as this car has had a lot of electrical work.

Please help its pissing me off its the last thing I need to do before I can mot it and kick its cunt in.

 

. The starter has a main power feed from the battery that is constant, and a small switch wire which is the feed from the ign barrel that's only live while you crank it over

 

Via the immobi, some alarm installers cut the main ecu feed too.

Seen some seriously bad wiring over the years.

 

The inertia switch is in the spare tyre well for 4x4's with the square dash. The facelfted 4x4 with the smoother dash has it behind the kick panel.

 

Connecting pins 1 and 10 together will do nothing as they are both grounds!

Check you have power at the ECU relay first.

Martin

 

I have power going to the ecu fuse and relay and the relay is buzzing ect, ended up just throwing in the towel can't be bothered looking anymore tbh I'm gonna phone the auto electrician out that fitted the alarm and see what he thinks.

Thanks for the input though it will be something stupid like the original immobiliser as the new alarm looks sort off piggybacked through that. I thought by plugging in a spare immobiliser unit it would rule that theory out but maybe not.

 

Forgot to add my car has a new fusebox in the glovebox where the ecu, starter and fans are fed through. This is all live and all fuses are fine.

 

Well there is your answer, the buzzing is it unable to close. This could be due to a bad connection, or lack of power, as I mentioned before.

As such, I would try the battery from the other car you have to eliminate it.

Martin

 

Just went out with my multi meter there to check battery voltage as its been on a trickle charger all week and the colts drop very say once the charger has been unplugged, my central locking has now stopped working aswell