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Focus mk1 rear control arm totally seized so have gone to these lengths to get it out and still nothing. Feel like it could be the same story for every other bolt on the suspension as I'm replacing all the suspension components!

Anyone come up against this before and what was your best way of attacking the job as a whole?

 

your problem is its thinner at the other end so needs to come out the end its been cut off at

 

All the bolts do that on back end off the mk1 focus!

 

I have started to replace the nuts and bolts like this on my cars with titanium ones as the NEVER corrode! there are plenty of places that do them on the net! Ironically I started with the exhaust manifold ones! If I cant get titanium ones I use stainless steel! good old Henry Ford really knows how to save the pennies and cost us pounds!

 

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/se...ategory/page/1

Saved me hours of grief over the years

 

I use those too to take the original ones out!

 

Look at the rear discs, looks like there's none of the pad touching the disc as its rusted the whole thing. Brakes be interesting on that?

 

It's pretty common, total nightmare! What it is the bolt corrodes into the metal sleeve inside the bush. If you can get into it cut the bolt either side of the bush. Don't forget that the inner lower arm bolt that attaches to the subframe adjusts the toe/camber so will need setting up after.

Send a message to peevee on here, he has recently refurbished his rear subframe so should be able to give you some pointers.

 

These look really interesting! do you only use these to remove already fucked nuts or on the first attempt? I must of used well over 500nm of force yesterday trying to get off the nut with steelsons (steelson attached to a ring spanner attched to a huge long pole for leverage)

Those sets are a bit hit n miss with the sizes though

Might have to, although i don't think i'll ever replace anything again after this.

no they're fine, these are gold plated discs. Super performance! haha nah got a nice set of drilled and grooved discs with brembo pads sitting at the post office

 

If it slips once I tend to go to those sockets, or if you know it's gonna be a bastard cos of the other side, just go for it straight away. If they're on properly they'll never let go, had to do some rear subframe bolts on a BMW E36, ended up with the car on the ground, jack on the ratchet and jack the car up, use the weight of the car to undo the bolt. It's a bit of a con about sizes, you buy the plastic box which isn't full then you buy the other packet to complete the box, then you've got most sizes.

 

I had the same issue on my focus's but I found that its only those bolts on the arm that I had any issue with, I cut the head of and the nut then cut a 5mm centre piece out of the bush then battered the life out of it until it come free,.. you can pick up those bushes for pennies on interweb or just go to your Mr FORDS dealers

 

turbo sockets are the bollocks

 

Get gas torch and heat up bolts till glowing red, undo like new after that, if font work at 1st heat again undo lil bit n do back up a bit keep doing this till they loosen,
It's time consuming but deffo works
Took me 5 hours to undo nuts on my 4i manifold!
And still snapped 2 lol

 

I must say the heat worked best at first until one of the welds on the nuts snapped and then because the sleeve has seized to the bolt it pushed the nut out instead causing the metal frame to bend out of shape so have to snack that back now. I am really not looking forward to doing the trailing arm bushes!

Going to look into this. I watched a vid on how the old design of sockets is shit, all the pressure on the corners! What a wank idea.
Going to try this in the week. Got bolts still to cut. Everything I touch is destroyed or about to be destroyed. Never come across anything like it. Pictures to follow....

 

That's all well and good mate but the tensile strength of stainless bolts aren't as high as normal BZP bolts.

 

iv done all my rear end and had same probs as you. i removed whole subframe and disc cut where i could and hacksaw blades where i couldnt. nightmare job and drove me insane.

 

Yep as said remove the whole subframe. Will give you loads more access as you can then flip it over. Then its a cutting job I'm afraid!

 

If you have lots to do I would recommend one of these -
http://m.alibaba.com/product/5970303...on_heater.html

Because the heat is localised to just the nut or the bolt it's a lot more effective than using gas. I'm not sure where you buy induction heaters from normally but mine came from my snap on man.
There are a couple of vids on you tube about them if your not sure.

 

Brad, I was just about to suggest the same thing,excellent tools that just keep on giving back..

Ginge

 

Ginge , very true. i cant stress enough how much time it has saved.

Found one on eBay but I'm sure you can find one cheaper elsewhere.... if the link works.

http://bit.ly/17ANY5W

 

I've been doing the heads on a bentley, 45 hour book time...Thing's saved me at least 2 hours in undoing rusty bolts!

Ginge

 

I've already got a few parts off of one side, bits i've got left to do are the upper control arm inner bolt, the trailing arm bushes, and the trailing arm link outer bolt (cut out job).. oh and the shock..

Anyone have any issues with replacing the trailing arm bush (the one that goes through a circle in the trailing arm, with the two flat blades sticking out that attach to the subframe nearest the middle of the car)
Some are saying it needs to be pressed in and out, i reckon a blow torch should suffice for in and out though?!

 

Just chop the bolts at the bushes.
Bit late now though I spose!

 

probably looking to get a new knuckle now seeing as i have shaved so much material from either side of the lower control arm mount! don't want to risk it strength wise!

 

When removing bolts especialy suspension bolts I always cover them with copper slip before putting back in.

 

Always wise mate, although doesn't stop the nut/bolt itself corroding.

 

Knowing what this was like, I bought another subframe and built it up ready.







And then sold on the existing one. Of the 2nd hand frame I bought, on the bench / workmate, it was quite straight forward and only ended up having to cut a couple of bolts. Would not have liked to have done the work with it on the car.

As for the rear bushes, there is an extractor / installer tool.


I'd definitely go for the 2nd subframe method as I did, might cost a bit more but saves you so much grief. Swapping the subframe out as well on a disc braked version takes very little time. A bit more if you have drums as you have to piss about with brake lines and then brake bleeding.

 

That looks a ton easier! did you remember to set the design height?
That tool is what i need, but I can't bring myself to buy it for a job i'll never do again! There must be another way to do it....???

 

dont need special tools just push it in with a vice.

 

i agree. i put plenty of grease on the bolt and in the hole. stops it rusting to the inner bush sleeve i hope. also i plaster it over the head and the thread and nut thats exposed after fitting to prevent corrosion. all the dirt and grime sticks to it and it will look ugly but cant do any harm

 

So many tips in this thread.. Think this should be stickied haaha.

How do you suppose you do this in a vice, the vice would have to open up as wide as the thames, i've only got a vice that open about 6 inches lol

 

I thought i could heat the knuckle up so it fell out and then heat it up to slide the new one in..

 

Design height yes, set that even worked out what is was for the -40mm eibachs but have forgotten as it was a few years ago now

 

Ok well haynes say that standard design height is 130 so just get yourself a nice 90mm stub of wood

 

It doesn't work quite as simply as that.

As the change in height is way out at the end of the arms, a 40mm drop out there would mean only say a 10mm reduction where you measure the design height.

Can't remember what they were now are I did the calcs on the back of a fag packet. A tape measure and a calculator is all you need.

 

A very good point. Did not think of that! Well it won't be too hard to mock up hopefully can't wait to have it all replaced. Might even treat her to a lick of hammerite for the subframe lol

 

If it is work in progress and it is off the road, dropping the frame only takes about 15 minutes and those bolts will be fine.

You will find it so much easier to work on.

Getting the springs back in can be fun if you only have standard / DIY standard spring compressors. You really need the 'duck billed' type.

 

If I ever attemp the job again then that's what I will do. yeah they were quite fiddly but I found a way around that, put the spring compressors on the inside of the spring and you will be able to pop them in, this only works because of the hole in the seat of the lower control arms.