boost problem
i was wondering if anyone could help im havin a problem with my car boosting its been fine the whole time ive had it but recently the turbo seems to stop boosting. normal driving it fine but if you boot it up its boosting ok but then when u go to the next gear the boost is severly reduced and some time wont kick in fully again unless you take it right up the revs. its like its lagging severly. the car is running a stage 1 tune. it has a full stainless exhaust, panel filter, chip, -31 actuator, relocated dump valve and its usuing a bleed valve for controlling the boost. any help would be appreciated.
well i know there is slight play on the shaft of the turbo and slight blue smoke on boost sometimes. im thinkin my turbo might be on its way out but been like tht for a while didnt think it wud cause this problem. u think maybe the bleed valve cud cause a problem? was going to run a pipe from the turbo to actuator and bypass the bleed valve and try tht
Yeh I would try bypassin the bleed valve 1st. My mate put a bleed valve in his Ibiza and it made it laggy as hell between gears and not boost right......took it out and it was spot on
wayne
wayne
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cool ill try tht tonite. i had the valve fitted a while ago and was fine but looked quite an old one. thinking maybe the spring has gotten weak or sumthin. thanks for your feedback.
i removed the bleed valve and put a pipe straght from the turbo to the wastegate actuator. car boosts fine now. any sugestions for a better way to adjust the boost to what it should be?
get rid of the bleed valve completely, i assume you still have the amal valve?
you really need to know what the chip allows you to run before you set what the boost should be
i'd start from scratch with half preload on the actuator, just for piece of mind if not anything else, then adjust the actuator rod (shorten for more boost) as needed
you really need to know what the chip allows you to run before you set what the boost should be
i'd start from scratch with half preload on the actuator, just for piece of mind if not anything else, then adjust the actuator rod (shorten for more boost) as needed
get rid of the bleed valve completely, i assume you still have the amal valve?
you really need to know what the chip allows you to run before you set what the boost should be
i'd start from scratch with half preload on the actuator, just for piece of mind if not anything else, then adjust the actuator rod (shorten for more boost) as needed
you really need to know what the chip allows you to run before you set what the boost should be
i'd start from scratch with half preload on the actuator, just for piece of mind if not anything else, then adjust the actuator rod (shorten for more boost) as needed
yeah still got the amal valve. all i know about the chip is thts its a stage 1 and i read stage 1 should be set to 15psi so had it set to that. and had the actuator rod set so that half the hole at the end of the rod was over the wastegate lever so that i had to pull the rod over the rest of the wastegate lever. thats what i was previously told to do.. do i need to modify the amal valve at all or just connect it back up and adjust my actuator rod to the boost im needing?
I would open the ecu and see whose chip it is, then adjust to thier instruction, most stage 1 are around the same, the amal is a perefectly good way of controlling the boost, for good measure I'd also check the fuel pressure and co to instructions to, but need to know whose chip it is then just contact them.
tabetha
tabetha
yeah still got the amal valve. all i know about the chip is thts its a stage 1 and i read stage 1 should be set to 15psi so had it set to that. and had the actuator rod set so that half the hole at the end of the rod was over the wastegate lever so that i had to pull the rod over the rest of the wastegate lever. thats what i was previously told to do.. do i need to modify the amal valve at all or just connect it back up and adjust my actuator rod to the boost im needing?
yeah that's right with regards to the preload, but as tabetha has said below you really need to know who's chip it is and the parameters for the chip, e.g. what the idle CO% should be
if its stage one, most will peak at 14-15psi and hold 12ish psi.
if the chip manufacturer is unknown, i would set it up to 14psi peak by shortening the actuator rod then get a fueling check done by someone with wideband. just be careful you dont max out the injectors if your on yellows
a simple set up would do it the world of good, should cost no more than £200.
get the basics done and you should be trouble free, its when these things are guessed you get problems
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