Focus RS ECU and loom into zetec turbo'd focus help!
#1
Focus RS ECU and loom into zetec turbo'd focus help!
Hey everyone, I've have a zetec turbo running mk1 focus rs management with the rs engine loom.
I'm having problems with the pats system, an auto electrician has told me that the transponder ring isn't getting power.
I know the standard focus 2.0l ecu's don't have as many pins on the ecu as the rs one, am I right in thinking that there is some wires that arnt connecting to the ecu from the standard interior loom due to the number of pins in the rs ecu.
Any help from anyone would be appreciated. Looking to sort it out tomorow, thanks, Dean,
I'm having problems with the pats system, an auto electrician has told me that the transponder ring isn't getting power.
I know the standard focus 2.0l ecu's don't have as many pins on the ecu as the rs one, am I right in thinking that there is some wires that arnt connecting to the ecu from the standard interior loom due to the number of pins in the rs ecu.
Any help from anyone would be appreciated. Looking to sort it out tomorow, thanks, Dean,
Last edited by De4n0; 12-03-2015 at 08:49 AM.
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t230 (03-02-2017)
#5
ok so basically ive attempted to fit a RS mk1 loom in to standard focus shell (which was running pectel) and was having PATS difficulty as above by OP.....
After more research i discovered that RS is prob completely different loom hence why the signal isnt going through system to allow keys to be recognised.
So i purchased an RS fusebox and loom BUT thats different at the bulk head also where there is two connectors RS has only one - so i am looking at having to get the rest of the interior loom to dash GEM module etc...
My question is there anyway around this - i suppose its either wiring diagrams and changing pins round OR RS loom and prob abs pump as ive just discovered plug on that is different...
After more research i discovered that RS is prob completely different loom hence why the signal isnt going through system to allow keys to be recognised.
So i purchased an RS fusebox and loom BUT thats different at the bulk head also where there is two connectors RS has only one - so i am looking at having to get the rest of the interior loom to dash GEM module etc...
My question is there anyway around this - i suppose its either wiring diagrams and changing pins round OR RS loom and prob abs pump as ive just discovered plug on that is different...
#6
Ok so the base car I am guessing from your old ecu was a 98/99 2.0 manual fitted with the 2.0 Blacktop ? This had the 60 pin eecv ecu.
As a road car keeping all the Oem bits the easiest route is the full Rs transplant. It's still not easy and it also means paying the Rs tax on all the bits.
The way I would do it is to cut the plugs of and connect the wires to where they need to go. You would need to add a few plugs, like map sensor.
The st170 uses the 104 pin eecv like the Rs and the looms are similar. In fact I've cut one up to use on my Rs hybrid as one breaker was knocking them out for beer money.
The pats is the easy bit. Just four wires.
The base car won't be can bus enabled hence the abs being differant and the dash on a pre canbus ecu won't work fulley either.
As a road car keeping all the Oem bits the easiest route is the full Rs transplant. It's still not easy and it also means paying the Rs tax on all the bits.
The way I would do it is to cut the plugs of and connect the wires to where they need to go. You would need to add a few plugs, like map sensor.
The st170 uses the 104 pin eecv like the Rs and the looms are similar. In fact I've cut one up to use on my Rs hybrid as one breaker was knocking them out for beer money.
The pats is the easy bit. Just four wires.
The base car won't be can bus enabled hence the abs being differant and the dash on a pre canbus ecu won't work fulley either.
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t230 (03-02-2017)
#8
hey -
ive put a 2.0l blacktop zetec engine and engine bay loom from a mk1 into a facelift mk1.5 and am having trouble getting it running, the 1.4 ecu lets the car turnover but isnt supplying any spark and the ecu from the 2.0l doesnt power anything up
i used the appropriate keys for the ecu's but its got mysself and my mechanic stumped - any idea whats going on so we can get it sussed ?
sorry to jump on the bandwagon out of the blue but this has been almost a 2 week ordeal so far and i miss the road :/
ive put a 2.0l blacktop zetec engine and engine bay loom from a mk1 into a facelift mk1.5 and am having trouble getting it running, the 1.4 ecu lets the car turnover but isnt supplying any spark and the ecu from the 2.0l doesnt power anything up
i used the appropriate keys for the ecu's but its got mysself and my mechanic stumped - any idea whats going on so we can get it sussed ?
sorry to jump on the bandwagon out of the blue but this has been almost a 2 week ordeal so far and i miss the road :/
#9
you might need the fuse box loom aswell - if so then you might need the rest of the loom
Doing a similar conversion (installing FRS mk1 ecu to Mk1 focus) initially thought i coud get away with just ecu and engine loom but no....i need the whole loom including interior loom to fuse box in the glove and to dash and also rs cluster...
on your dashboard , is the LED below hazard button flashing on ignition POS II?
since your car is cranking you have got one stage further than me. if you get an error that should point you n the direction. theres a cool free software available called FORSCAN which i am using on the laptop via elm327 bluetooth which helps , can add keys etc.
See what errors you have and post on here please...but if your car is cranking - i think might be a case of changing pins somewhere...but that means testing circuits one by one - see with two different car loom its if and buts, however if you install whole loom you know its out of the question....someone perhaps knows more?
Doing a similar conversion (installing FRS mk1 ecu to Mk1 focus) initially thought i coud get away with just ecu and engine loom but no....i need the whole loom including interior loom to fuse box in the glove and to dash and also rs cluster...
on your dashboard , is the LED below hazard button flashing on ignition POS II?
since your car is cranking you have got one stage further than me. if you get an error that should point you n the direction. theres a cool free software available called FORSCAN which i am using on the laptop via elm327 bluetooth which helps , can add keys etc.
See what errors you have and post on here please...but if your car is cranking - i think might be a case of changing pins somewhere...but that means testing circuits one by one - see with two different car loom its if and buts, however if you install whole loom you know its out of the question....someone perhaps knows more?
#10
Ok so the base car I am guessing from your old ecu was a 98/99 2.0 manual fitted with the 2.0 Blacktop ? This had the 60 pin eecv ecu.
As a road car keeping all the Oem bits the easiest route is the full Rs transplant. It's still not easy and it also means paying the Rs tax on all the bits.
The way I would do it is to cut the plugs of and connect the wires to where they need to go. You would need to add a few plugs, like map sensor.
The st170 uses the 104 pin eecv like the Rs and the looms are similar. In fact I've cut one up to use on my Rs hybrid as one breaker was knocking them out for beer money.
The pats is the easy bit. Just four wires.
The base car won't be can bus enabled hence the abs being differant and the dash on a pre canbus ecu won't work fully either.
As a road car keeping all the Oem bits the easiest route is the full Rs transplant. It's still not easy and it also means paying the Rs tax on all the bits.
The way I would do it is to cut the plugs of and connect the wires to where they need to go. You would need to add a few plugs, like map sensor.
The st170 uses the 104 pin eecv like the Rs and the looms are similar. In fact I've cut one up to use on my Rs hybrid as one breaker was knocking them out for beer money.
The pats is the easy bit. Just four wires.
The base car won't be can bus enabled hence the abs being differant and the dash on a pre canbus ecu won't work fully either.
As for map sensor etc...i am using the RS ecu now, Rs engine bay loom and engine bay loom but as above where that connects to interior through inner arch n/s connectors ar similar but where FRS has one the others have two....thus why my PATS signal is not travelling through system and why i am getting B1681 1;1 LED error - PATS SIGNAL NOT RETURNED / PATS TRANSCEIVER SIGNAL RETURN ERROR - Yep ive tried different clusters, transceivers, ecus etc etc even called out two separate companies trying to sync PATS modules (Cluster etc) but to no avail.
So as my mate advised just gonna go with whole loom - just waiting for ST Breaker Leigh to come up Trumps...with the bits i need...oh i have a cluster on the way - i really need to put some fotos up....
#11
i dont have the led below the hazard lights otherwise this would have heen solved a long while ago im sure
ive got an ecu guy coming to take a look tomorrow afternoon and hes not afraid of loom hacking so ill let you know what he xomes up with and if we manage to get her running or not buddy
stay posted !
ive got an ecu guy coming to take a look tomorrow afternoon and hes not afraid of loom hacking so ill let you know what he xomes up with and if we manage to get her running or not buddy
stay posted !
#12
Some photos may help as I don't know everything and there are so many combinations.
As you say there is two engine loom plugs on the ns on an st loom. from memory most of this is the power supply side. Lights coolant fans ect.
There is a multi plug on the os footwell near the ecu plug where the dash, pats, obd2 connect.
If you where putting this in something where there was no existing loom I could tell you how to wire it up. You could have it running in a boat, a plane or sat on a pallet on your drive.
I don't usually put them back in a modern ford so I haven't done the work on the car side of the loom.
As a whole car the wiring is overwhelming. Broken down into circuits its very easy if a little time consuming.
This is a test loom I made to make sure the ecu I bought came with a matching key and not just a random.
I then added a few wires so I could check the dash I bought showed the millage it was sold as. The dash wont work with out an ecu but they are not paired or synchronised, I also plugged the st170 dash in I had.
The immobilizer is easy, four wires. Pats led just two more.
https://youtu.be/F48cpRHf5jA
Last edited by big_wasa; 04-02-2017 at 10:42 AM.
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t230 (18-02-2017)
#13
right - im thanks for the reply firstly
im not good with pins and stuff so i just went with RS fusebox and interior loom thanks to Leigh in Guildford....however i think a butcher was involved at sum stage removing the loom n/s passenger foot well onward to rear so i just need to solder rear lights indicators etc
im using a random ecu a random key and cluster however i didnt need to sync them!
Behold I HAVE PATS SIGNAL!...CAR CRANKS whoop whooop THANKS FOR all your help
!!!!
im not good with pins and stuff so i just went with RS fusebox and interior loom thanks to Leigh in Guildford....however i think a butcher was involved at sum stage removing the loom n/s passenger foot well onward to rear so i just need to solder rear lights indicators etc
im using a random ecu a random key and cluster however i didnt need to sync them!
Behold I HAVE PATS SIGNAL!...CAR CRANKS whoop whooop THANKS FOR all your help
!!!!
#14
No problem,
I've bought a few bits from st breaker. Mostly good stuff.
As prices on the cars go up, less Rs's are getting broken and the Rs tax on the parts is going up as well.
As long as the key is paired to the ecu then happy days. The dash and gems are not paired to the ecu.
I've bought a few bits from st breaker. Mostly good stuff.
As prices on the cars go up, less Rs's are getting broken and the Rs tax on the parts is going up as well.
As long as the key is paired to the ecu then happy days. The dash and gems are not paired to the ecu.
The following users liked this post:
t230 (18-02-2017)
#16
No problem,
I've bought a few bits from st breaker. Mostly good stuff.
As prices on the cars go up, less Rs's are getting broken and the Rs tax on the parts is going up as well.
As long as the key is paired to the ecu then happy days. The dash and gems are not paired to the ecu.
I've bought a few bits from st breaker. Mostly good stuff.
As prices on the cars go up, less Rs's are getting broken and the Rs tax on the parts is going up as well.
As long as the key is paired to the ecu then happy days. The dash and gems are not paired to the ecu.
I use a program called FORSCAN its free to download and you can use it with almost any good interface (pls check first though i am using VGATE bluetooth) so i will be able to add extra keys..
Yeah some people said u need to pair cluster etc but i didnt think it was necessary
Thanks for the reply though
#17
Afternoon - right im at the point where almost everything at the rear works but the rear fog stays on looool
anyone have a deciphered wiring diagram for rear fogs,indicators lights etc Focus 98-04 2.0 & 02-04 RS comparison /both diagrams?
ive been looking at this but i dunno what the hell im looking at .....
ftp://ftp.idm.ru/pub/ffclub/2003_5_Focus_WD.pdf
anyone have a deciphered wiring diagram for rear fogs,indicators lights etc Focus 98-04 2.0 & 02-04 RS comparison /both diagrams?
ive been looking at this but i dunno what the hell im looking at .....
ftp://ftp.idm.ru/pub/ffclub/2003_5_Focus_WD.pdf
#18
#23
St170 rs loom
I'm trying to Install a rs engine loom in a st170 but having problems getting my head round the 2x plugs in the ns wing any help would be great cant find a rs interior loom for sale so can i work with what I've got?
#24
What bits have you got to play with ?
There is more than one way to go about it. The only wrong way is the one that doesn’t work.
Easy way is the full Rs loom, have you tried Leigh @ St Breakers ?
I think I would modify and use the st170 looms. It will save messing about with the car side of things. And avoid the Rs costs.They are cheap and easy to replace. Just don’t short or reverse polarity the ecu as this is not as cheap and easy to replace.
Explaining it is harder than doing it. But I chop up St looms for mine.
There is more than one way to go about it. The only wrong way is the one that doesn’t work.
Easy way is the full Rs loom, have you tried Leigh @ St Breakers ?
I think I would modify and use the st170 looms. It will save messing about with the car side of things. And avoid the Rs costs.They are cheap and easy to replace. Just don’t short or reverse polarity the ecu as this is not as cheap and easy to replace.
Explaining it is harder than doing it. But I chop up St looms for mine.
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