what car will a st170 engine fit in?
ive just picked up a st170 complete engine and loom.
but i have no car lol.
what car shall i fit it in?
im thinking that as its got rear starter that it will be a job to fit into some models.
will it fit into a ka? fiesta? escort?
without too much modifying preferably.
focus is an option i spose but i was thinking of something lighter.
whats your opinions?
but i have no car lol.
what car shall i fit it in?
im thinking that as its got rear starter that it will be a job to fit into some models.
will it fit into a ka? fiesta? escort?
without too much modifying preferably.
focus is an option i spose but i was thinking of something lighter.
whats your opinions?
best gearbox for st170 is the 6speed it came with bud also why not throw it in an escort mk3/4 or 6 or even theres a clean mk2(mk4)orion on here for around Ł500 it will go in that
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Am sure you could use a rs turbo box a think it would go straight in no mods a think the puma has a gear linkage and not cables like the later ib5 and the mtx out of a focus.
Cheers marc
Cheers marc
We fitted an ST170 engine to my brothers missus Escort GTi (Mk6). It was NOT in any way a straight forward job. Everytime we overcame one hold up we fell straight into another, this may have been compounded as we wanted to retain the airconditioning. Engine mated up to an IB5 box and I think we used a standard RS Turbo clutch. At present the car is running on a stock 2 litre Mondeo ECU which oddly on the rollers at Evolve produced a very nice power and torque curve with nice fueling. Saddly only made 150bhp but with no cam timinng adjustment we were quite pleased. Have some throttle bodies and DTA management to go on at some point in the near future.
Bolts straight up to an RST box which makes it a front starter, which means it will fit in most things! In saying that, this means you can't use the ST170 4 branch manifold as this would foul the starter.
Its essentially a black top Zetec so the rear mount needs modded for whatever it goes into...nice conversion in a mk5 Fiesta Zetec S or something like that?
Its essentially a black top Zetec so the rear mount needs modded for whatever it goes into...nice conversion in a mk5 Fiesta Zetec S or something like that?
Mk1 fiesta, will fit with a few mods, I'm pretty sure I've seen a mk1 or 2 fiesta running a st170 engine and 6 speed box. Could always run rst box start motor is in the way a bit, but isn't really a major drama...
We fitted an ST170 engine to my brothers missus Escort GTi (Mk6). It was NOT in any way a straight forward job. Everytime we overcame one hold up we fell straight into another, this may have been compounded as we wanted to retain the airconditioning. Engine mated up to an IB5 box and I think we used a standard RS Turbo clutch. At present the car is running on a stock 2 litre Mondeo ECU which oddly on the rollers at Evolve produced a very nice power and torque curve with nice fueling. Saddly only made 150bhp but with no cam timinng adjustment we were quite pleased. Have some throttle bodies and DTA management to go on at some point in the near future.


its rear starter box so thats easy.
the engine mount is no issues.
the only issues i can forsee are water pumo and oil pump angles.
any more info on this escort conversion please?
i wont need aircon, will be a track day car you see!
i dont want to do loads of chopping and welding, plus it needs to have injection fuel tank etc so it gets invloved then
Bolts straight up to an RST box which makes it a front starter, which means it will fit in most things! In saying that, this means you can't use the ST170 4 branch manifold as this would foul the starter.
Its essentially a black top Zetec so the rear mount needs modded for whatever it goes into...nice conversion in a mk5 Fiesta Zetec S or something like that?
Its essentially a black top Zetec so the rear mount needs modded for whatever it goes into...nice conversion in a mk5 Fiesta Zetec S or something like that?
I use an ashley 4 branch and no clearance issues with it or starter
I am working on my shoe string budget rwd St170 at the moment.
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So why bother with the oem ecu when any after market ecu and a vvt delete will have it over 200bhp ? well its cheap its plug and play and anything other than WOT it drives much better.
When I say cheap I mean the ecu and loom will cost me less than an omex 600 plug.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-30124048.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psab3917ee.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2cfbf267.jpg
Next job, chop the loom up and remake it to fit a 7= done.
Now at this stage I hadnt bought an engine and I need to know if I can get the ecu to run an engine. So I test fired it on the silvertop.
Ive now bought an engine
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbf27e878.jpg
And ive picked up a spare sump to chop up to clear a front mount starter and a couple of single mass flywheels.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps00b9f11e.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps99eb6e66.jpg
I plan on mounting it up as a bench engine to start with like this one I did a few years back.
So the question I still need to answer is not if it will run but if I can keep the ecu happy to run full power ???
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So why bother with the oem ecu when any after market ecu and a vvt delete will have it over 200bhp ? well its cheap its plug and play and anything other than WOT it drives much better.
When I say cheap I mean the ecu and loom will cost me less than an omex 600 plug.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-30124048.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psab3917ee.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2cfbf267.jpg
Next job, chop the loom up and remake it to fit a 7= done.
Now at this stage I hadnt bought an engine and I need to know if I can get the ecu to run an engine. So I test fired it on the silvertop.
Ive now bought an engine
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbf27e878.jpg
And ive picked up a spare sump to chop up to clear a front mount starter and a couple of single mass flywheels.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps00b9f11e.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps99eb6e66.jpg
I plan on mounting it up as a bench engine to start with like this one I did a few years back.
So the question I still need to answer is not if it will run but if I can keep the ecu happy to run full power ???
I am working on my shoe string budget rwd St170 at the moment.
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep
This is the kind of answer i was looking for. top work.
The st has different sensors etc than a silvertop so suprised it worked.
What is the sensor on back of engine block near core plugs? Does it talk to ecu or is it just for dash guage?
There seems to be so little info about on the st lump.
The st has different sensors etc than a silvertop so suprised it worked.
What is the sensor on back of engine block near core plugs? Does it talk to ecu or is it just for dash guage?
There seems to be so little info about on the st lump.
I am working on my shoe string budget rwd St170 at the moment.
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So why bother with the oem ecu when any after market ecu and a vvt delete will have it over 200bhp ? well its cheap its plug and play and anything other than WOT it drives much better.
When I say cheap I mean the ecu and loom will cost me less than an omex 600 plug.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep http://youtu.be/4UMyy6HXvQ4
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-30124048.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psab3917ee.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2cfbf267.jpg
Next job, chop the loom up and remake it to fit a 7= done.
Now at this stage I hadnt bought an engine and I need to know if I can get the ecu to run an engine. So I test fired it on the silvertop.
http://youtu.be/lLuJS5KiboE
Ive now bought an engine
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbf27e878.jpg
And ive picked up a spare sump to chop up to clear a front mount starter and a couple of single mass flywheels.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps00b9f11e.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps99eb6e66.jpg
I plan on mounting it up as a bench engine to start with like this one I did a few years back.
http://youtu.be/Pxq4ks2Us_U
So the question I still need to answer is not if it will run but if I can keep the ecu happy to run full power ???
Ive been wiring up the oem ford ecu's into kitcars for years so the plan is to use the oem ecu to control the vvt and the dsi. I hope to get the full 170bhp with a decat and a dream science / Blufin remap.
So why bother with the oem ecu when any after market ecu and a vvt delete will have it over 200bhp ? well its cheap its plug and play and anything other than WOT it drives much better.
When I say cheap I mean the ecu and loom will cost me less than an omex 600 plug.
So first job before I spend to much cash is can I turn the pats on and of bassed on the work ive done before.
Answer=yep http://youtu.be/4UMyy6HXvQ4
Next job, can I work out the wiring.
Answer=yep http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...9-30124048.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psab3917ee.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2cfbf267.jpg
Next job, chop the loom up and remake it to fit a 7= done.
Now at this stage I hadnt bought an engine and I need to know if I can get the ecu to run an engine. So I test fired it on the silvertop.
http://youtu.be/lLuJS5KiboE
Ive now bought an engine
http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbf27e878.jpg
And ive picked up a spare sump to chop up to clear a front mount starter and a couple of single mass flywheels.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps00b9f11e.jpg
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps99eb6e66.jpg
I plan on mounting it up as a bench engine to start with like this one I did a few years back.
http://youtu.be/Pxq4ks2Us_U
So the question I still need to answer is not if it will run but if I can keep the ecu happy to run full power ???
Inlet or exhaust side ?
Exhaust side is just the crank sensor and its the same sensor as any other zetec.
The engine has no sensors for the dash other than the low oil pressure warning light as found on any zetec.
Infact there are no sensors for oil pressure or tempretue. I can only assume the ecu simulates these and sends the info to the clocks via the bus.
All the dash info comes from the ecu via can-bus.
The engine will start with very few sensors but in a limp home mode capacity.
Like I say its not if I can get it run but if it will run happy at full power. I will be using every sensor engine wise bar the canister purge so I dont see any problems.
The fuel pump is nothing special.
Exhaust side is just the crank sensor and its the same sensor as any other zetec.
The engine has no sensors for the dash other than the low oil pressure warning light as found on any zetec.
Infact there are no sensors for oil pressure or tempretue. I can only assume the ecu simulates these and sends the info to the clocks via the bus.
All the dash info comes from the ecu via can-bus.
The engine will start with very few sensors but in a limp home mode capacity.
Like I say its not if I can get it run but if it will run happy at full power. I will be using every sensor engine wise bar the canister purge so I dont see any problems.
The fuel pump is nothing special.
Inlet or exhaust side ?
Exhaust side is just the crank sensor and its the same sensor as any other zetec.
The engine has no sensors for the dash other than the low oil pressure warning light as found on any zetec.
Infact there are no sensors for oil pressure or tempretue. I can only assume the ecu simulates these and sends the info to the clocks via the bus.
All the dash info comes from the ecu via can-bus.
The engine will start with very few sensors but in a limp home mode capacity.
Like I say its not if I can get it run but if it will run happy at full power. I will be using every sensor engine wise bar the canister purge so I dont see any problems.
The fuel pump is nothing special.
Exhaust side is just the crank sensor and its the same sensor as any other zetec.
The engine has no sensors for the dash other than the low oil pressure warning light as found on any zetec.
Infact there are no sensors for oil pressure or tempretue. I can only assume the ecu simulates these and sends the info to the clocks via the bus.
All the dash info comes from the ecu via can-bus.
The engine will start with very few sensors but in a limp home mode capacity.
Like I say its not if I can get it run but if it will run happy at full power. I will be using every sensor engine wise bar the canister purge so I dont see any problems.
The fuel pump is nothing special.
also what about the oil cooler? do people still run them? i would like to keep it as i think it must be there because its needed, makes for tight space with the long oil filter though.
i think im going to do a full write up on these engines when im done as it seems that there isnt much info out there on these as of yet!
i want to strip engine completely but not sure how to do it correctly, how does the timing work and what about the thingy on the top of the rocker cover, what does that do and how do i remove it?
Last edited by 16vzetec; Feb 27, 2013 at 08:47 PM.
Ah gotya,
That is the knock sensor and the ecu uses this to listen for detonation.
The vvt works on oil presure. The valve on top of the valve cover is the solenoid that lets the oil into the vvt pulley. The ecu knows where the cam timing is by the cam phase sensor.
I havnt done the belt yet but it looks like its the same as any zetec except you have to hold the vvt pulley with a spanner.
The oil cooler is as much an oil warmer as anything elts. Its designed to get the engine up to tempreture quicker to reduce emissions on warm up.
Having spoken to a few people, most arnt bothering with the extra plumbing. As there are lots of zetec's out there over 200bhp with out one.
That is the knock sensor and the ecu uses this to listen for detonation.
The vvt works on oil presure. The valve on top of the valve cover is the solenoid that lets the oil into the vvt pulley. The ecu knows where the cam timing is by the cam phase sensor.
I havnt done the belt yet but it looks like its the same as any zetec except you have to hold the vvt pulley with a spanner.
The oil cooler is as much an oil warmer as anything elts. Its designed to get the engine up to tempreture quicker to reduce emissions on warm up.
Having spoken to a few people, most arnt bothering with the extra plumbing. As there are lots of zetec's out there over 200bhp with out one.
Last edited by big_wasa; Feb 28, 2013 at 06:48 PM.
Ah gotya,
That is the knock sensor and the ecu uses this to listen for detonation.
The vvt works on oil presure. The valve on top of the valve cover is the solenoid that lets the oil into the vvt pulley. The ecu knows where the cam timing is by the cam phase sensor.
I havnt done the belt yet but it looks like its the same as any zetec except you have to hold the vvt pulley with a spanner.
The oil cooler is as much an oil warmer as anything elts. Its designed to get the engine up to tempreture quicker to reduce emissions on warm up.
Having spoken to a few people, most arnt bothering with the extra plumbing. As there are lots of zetec's out there over 200bhp with out one.
That is the knock sensor and the ecu uses this to listen for detonation.
The vvt works on oil presure. The valve on top of the valve cover is the solenoid that lets the oil into the vvt pulley. The ecu knows where the cam timing is by the cam phase sensor.
I havnt done the belt yet but it looks like its the same as any zetec except you have to hold the vvt pulley with a spanner.
The oil cooler is as much an oil warmer as anything elts. Its designed to get the engine up to tempreture quicker to reduce emissions on warm up.
Having spoken to a few people, most arnt bothering with the extra plumbing. As there are lots of zetec's out there over 200bhp with out one.
so far a black top exhaust manifold fits direct, not that youd wanna fit it lol.
got a silvertop 4-2-1 to try on tomorrow.
ideally i wanna fit a silvertop water pump but we'll see........
I can save you the time looking at that one.
There is no chance of the silver top water pump crossing over.
Inlet manifold will bolt up but the ports are ~10mm higher on the st so anything like a weber manifold would need porting.
Fly wheels will swap over.
Sumps, its easier to put the silver top on the st than the other way around.
cheers
There is no chance of the silver top water pump crossing over.
Inlet manifold will bolt up but the ports are ~10mm higher on the st so anything like a weber manifold would need porting.
Fly wheels will swap over.
Sumps, its easier to put the silver top on the st than the other way around.
cheers
i just brought my mrs a 1.3 mk3 fiesta and its an injection with a 5 speed box.
i was thinking would the st170 lump fit in that?
will the fuel pump be ok for st170 lump?
i think the engine mount would be pretty simple, the box is a straight fit except the starter and the exhaust wouldnt be a problem, maybe the only issue i can forsee would be the inlet manifold wont fit but i could fit a custom one?!?!?!?
any ideas?
i was thinking would the st170 lump fit in that?
will the fuel pump be ok for st170 lump?
i think the engine mount would be pretty simple, the box is a straight fit except the starter and the exhaust wouldnt be a problem, maybe the only issue i can forsee would be the inlet manifold wont fit but i could fit a custom one?!?!?!?
any ideas?
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