Hey Guys

I was wondering if ANYONE can get to the bottom of my problem?

History:

My 1.8 Zetec Silvertop failed it's MOT on emissions. Apparently a couple of valves were to blame. To save money (and to gain some experience) I decided to strip the engine then hand the cylinder head to the garage to replace the valves. Which they did and gave me the head back. I got new head bolts, head gasket, oil (5w30) and oil filter. Bolted it all together in the reverse way from stripping and tentatively started it up.
Immediately there was a problem. Everything was fine except a loud ticking from, what sounded like, the tappets.
I stripped the head down as far as removing the tappets, had a good look and refitted them. Bolted it all together and started it again. Same problem.
The one thing I was really worried about was setting the timing. After checking various websites I made sure the cams were locked, using the correct bar, and that Piston No1 was at it's upmost.
I've stripped the engine at least 6 more times, changing things again and again. Tappets, head gasket etc. Still ticking. I've even taken the exhaust off to make sure it's not leaking from the exhaust manifold.

I'm really stuck now. I've even contemplated changing the whole engine but know it'll be a ball ache and I'm moving house soon.

The thing that bothers me is that I can't get into the front of the engine to look at the timing notches on the crank pulley and the sump mark properly because it's a kit car and feckin' tight. I can just see that the first notch is almost at the line that I think I should be using and not the second notch when Cylinder No1 is TDC visually! How is this possible? I've read that the marks are what you go by, but that'd mean Piston No1 would be an inch or two from the top! ie not TDC!

Is this what's making the tapping noise and not the tappets? Should I go by the marks or when I can physically see Piston No1 at the top of it's stroke
?Can anyone help?

Grantee

 

check no.1 is at TDC by removing the spark plugs and resting a long screwdriver/extension bar on top of the piston then turn it over by hand

 

Yeah Fraser I tried this, but this is where the marks in the pulley DON'T line up with the mark on the sump???
Is this right? I'm assuming that if the No1 Piston is physically TDC and the cams are locked (they can only be locked one way) then everything is ok as far as timing is concerned?

Anyone else any idea what could be causing so much noise after the tappets have been stripped cleaned and refitted? Could it be oil pressure as the engine sits at about 70psi at idle then 80+ once going. Maybe the tappets not getting the right amount of oil?


Grantee

 

I'm confused, on the silver tops, you insert a locking pin into the block, along it's exhaust side at the bottom of the block you will see a 10mm headed blanking bolt, a pin goes in here, and the crank web, has a flat on it that contacts this pin, it is a BLACK coloured pin, get the engine to tdc, rotate about 15 degrees or so COUNTER clockwise, when looking at pulley, the insert pin in crank case/block, rotate till it(crank) contacts the pin you'll hear a definite ping sound if the plugs are out, now check bar fits across cams.
As for the noise, were the tappets empty to start with, they should have been anyway, how may mile shave the tappets done ?, why not take the tappets apart and clean them out ?
tabetha