SafeChav

bursts of fuel where?!?!?!

its continuous injection!!!

havv

well ive just been reading from haynes and they say i should be getting bursts of fuel from the pipe what goes from the fuel filter to the fuel distributor.

i found a major kink in this fuel line, straighined it out with pliers, but made a small hole in the process so now am looking for another pipe.

i seem to be getting the fuel through now though as i have undone that kink.

i checked at the injectors if any fuel was coming through there as i bridged the relay and depressed the flap, i heard a whining noise, but very very little fuel came through (only check the 1st injector). but havnt tested this after straighnting out the fuel line... perhaps that was all it was??

the fuel pump seems to be woking and making the right noise, and the relay clicks on everytime i turn the key, so im guessing thats working..

i noticed that the black/red wire that the relay connects to was burnt a little, and also the plastic around the INJ fuse in the fusebox has melted a little... what does this mean?

SafeChav

As long as the pump is running there should be fuel coming from the main fuel line, the pump is working by the sounds of it so i can only suggest you disregard looking in that area now.

As i say aswell its continuous injection so not even the injectors themselves pulse the fuel. As long as the engine is running they spray fuel continuously.

burnt wire etc more than likely means your pump is old and is drawing a little more current.

havv

ok coolio

will keep you posted!

havv

just wondering... could it be the fuel distributor?ive heard these go... how can i test it?

Fiecos Dan

It can be many things mate.


But what have you done since it was running?

as i know you said it was running rough after rebuild, but it did run.

havv

i have changed nothing since the rebuild, just looking around the engine, doing a few tests. But have been very careful not to pull anything out of place.

It was running, but very badly. Have got some new leads so will change them and put it in the correct firing order with it timed up to tdc tomrrow. ! Hopefully it will start!

I really cant see what else it could be. The car is set to be very rich, how can i adjust that?

Will keep all posted!

Fiecos Dan

How rich is it set? Find this out 1st by asking the garage.

You can adjust it with the mixture screw in the metering unit, but your make it worse, as you havent got any fueling equipment.


This problem can be many things, and just looking at them dont mean your checked it.


It needs the cam removed, measured/checked and refitted/replaced and timed correctly,
Static timing set,
Pressure check the whole system, and leaks fixed,
Mixture set.
And check over.


Then get some miles on her.

havv

ok did some proper tests today.

have chekced every fuel line and have found

Fuel is reaching the distributor, and continusly spraying whilst cranking.

however, the fuel dies not travel to the injectors. It wont pass through the distributor.

I have also put cery small amounts of fuel in the air intake and the car begines to rumble and start very quickly... so im guessing it must be the fuel distributor????

any ideas? sound common?

Fiecos Dan

Yes common mate.


its called a metering unit.

havv

i knew that dont know why i was calling it that! lol

you wouldnt have one lying around would ya!?

Fiecos Dan

i have yes,

but its from a RST converted mk2 fiesta, so one of the mounts have been cut off, but easy enough to sort.

havv

well as long as it works properly and can be mounted decently it should be ok... how much you looking for? when can i collect?

SafeChav

So are you saying fuel wont spray out of the injectors or even the metering head itself if you undo the fuel pipes from it?

havv

fuel wont spray out of the metering head! Surely that means if found the problem... right.. please say yes!!

SafeChav

try unplugging the EMFPR first

havv

whats that?

Fiecos Dan

Its the (black or grey, depends on age) unit on the side thats near the rear on the inner wing side. usually 2x flat head or allen head screws.

havv

im guessing its got like an electrical connection part to it. what does it do if i d/c this? Is this part of the metering unit, or is this like on the drivers side? very new to me....

SafeChav

Its what controls the fuel mixture high up the RPM range, but there is a chance it could be cutting the supply to the injectors!

My mate converted a Mk2 XR2 and the muppet fucked the wiring up somehow and he had the same problem as you, as soon as we removed the plug from it the car started!

Worth a try you have nothing to lose

havv

right ive got another metering unit on the way (thanks again dan) hopefully thatl solve this problem. ive got another... an oil leak from the dipstick, the o ring has worn out from the bottom of the tube. do i just yank this out and put another o ring in or are there screws to undo?

willl let all know about the starting problem tomorrow.

hope this post has been helpful to people, seems like the problems ive got are quite common !!

Fiecos Dan

is it leaking from top or bottom of the dip stick tube?


if its the bottom, it will pull out by wiggleing it out, but you will need to glue it back in to stop it turning.

havv

cool/

fitted the new metering unit, but got exactly the same problem. i think im going to give up soon this is taking too long!

any more ideas? again, fuel is reaching the top of the metering unit, but when we tested if there was any fuel out the injectors (at injector side) there was nothing during crank or 1st click, and tested at the metering unit and nothing again. makes me think my other unit was compltly fine.

i dont know if i took out the right EMFRP plug, the 1 i took out was connected to the metering unit, was a little grey plug, but didnt do anything.

in the haynes manual the only thing left is major mechanical fault like the camshaft...

but i can see how that will affect any fuel getting in. can it be ecu helppppppppppppppppppppp!!!

SafeChav

Theres no o ring on the dipstick tube its just an interference fit

The system is fail safe so even in the event of a fault you should still be able to start and drive it, obviously it run like a pile of poo but it should still start.

hmmmmm.........

havv

so have i got the best of evryone... any more ideas. was told to do a fuel pressure test, but apparently cant do that with a normal carb one as itl explode or something, so i need to get it to a garage. unfortunaly i live on the worst hill. so pushing is outa the question.

what should be my next step.. ive gone through the whole fuel system pretty much. expect electrical... but i think everything is connected.

SafeChav

Could possibly be the fuel pump, you could try clamping off the return hose from the fuel pressure regulator and seeing if you get any fuel up then, although if it works leaving the hose clamped off isn't an option.......

havv

yea lol that is a bit pointless. can you describe what this EMFRP connector looks like and where exactly it is. i dont know if i did the right thing.

SafeChav

The bit all the pipes bolt onto has a gray or black box on it with a 2 wire plug on it, the plug varies in colour again.

Fiecos Dan

if your sure everything hasn't been touched, and as it was when it last run, then you need to check pressure b4 the metering unit as i said in the text.


but you need a inj fuel pressure kit, or make your own, but will need a 100psi gauge, banjoo's and bolts in different sizes, fuel line and hose clips.

havv

ok will look out for a pressure kit. i think ive found a few on ebay that go to 100psi, but i think theyr only for carbs. am sure therl be some around though. motor spare shops dont seem to do them...

was reading this on another site...

Diagnosis:

Check for a spark using a spark plug wire and a paperclip near ground. If you have a spark, then your fuel injection system is a candidate for further investigation. If not, then your ignition system is at fault.

I have a spark so its definlty not this.

Next, you could replace (or use a spare) the fuel pump relay. Normally, when you switch on the ignition, but just before you actually crank it over, you should hear the fuel pump working, (a faint whine) then it stops (i.e. it is priming the system to pressure) If you hear nothing at all, then the relay could be bad (it is a green bastard stuck in the row of relays (usually top left as you look at it) behind the ash tray. You should remove the little shelf panel to get at it.

Relay is working fine!

Another thing you can do is undo slightly one of the unions in the fuel distributor, using a 12 (or 13mm) mm ring spanner. Normally, undoing one of these, there will be a spurt of fuel. If there is nothing, you have no fuel pressure.

Here i have no fuel. AT ALL !


So far it could be the relay or the main pump. You could buy a new relay, slot it in and the car should go. If not, then it is your main fuel pump (or pump wiring, but that is less likely, as the connections to the pump are very solid and durable) You could disconnect the pump wires (you can do this without removing it completely) and get someone to crank while you test voltage across the connectors.

So these guys are pretty much certain its the fuel pump...

what should the readings be on the fuel pump while cranking and while just priming.? worth a test.

Fiecos Dan

A fuel inj pressure kit will be around £200-300.

SafeChav

readings?

havv

whoa! i was looking for fuel pressure gauge, and there were a few around the £20... obvioudly im looking for the wrong thinkg... if their that much im just going to have to get it to another garage ...

readings as in voltage across the connectors...

Fiecos Dan

from memory, main pressure = 82 - 87 psi, injectors open @ 43 - 60 psi.

havv

alright..

is this what im looking for ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Pressure-Gauge...QQcmdZViewItem

Fiecos Dan

thats a gauge, but you then need to make a fitting kit.

Fiecos Dan

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Fuel-In...QQcmdZViewItem

havv

£200 is too much money just to find out whats wrong when i can replace all the parts within that price range (pump, acumulator and pressure reg are left).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CORSA-FUEL-PRE...QQcmdZViewItem

what about this??
same thing?

Fiecos Dan

Yep.


also cheaper to send it to someone who can find the fault, with out replacing everything.

SafeChav

Doubt very much thats your problem mate, but the voltage across the pump should be pretty much the same as the battery voltage while its running