having just fitted my secs/msd coilpack conversion, thought id post some pics up, it is very simple to do, the hardest part of the job was getting the new sub loom through the bulkhead


basically you do as per stus instructions, i dont need to eloborate in them,

ill just show the pics as i did it.

 

get rid of all the old stuff, chop the ends off and insulate them, re tape the loom so it looks factory.

i made a ally bracked to use the old coil mouting bolts.


coilpack in place



plug in the loom - you cant get it wrong...


run new ht leads

and tuck the connectors up out the way...


the hardest part was getting the new wires through the bulkead...

i pulled the water injectipn pipe through into the engine bay as far as i could, taped the new wires to it and then pulled it back into the car - hey presto they come through with it


push the wires into the empty sockets in the ECU connector. tape up loom and put ecu back up in its hidihole.

fire her up and away you go

finished.


not forgetting, god gave us hands, rs components gave us the skewdriver, the most usefull tool ive ever used for working on a car

 

excellant Dave - looking forward to fitting mine when the 2nd batch arrived

 

ditto that

good man

 

nearly forgot....

you also need to chop off and solder together the wires going to the old coil/tacho surpressor here...


and tape that into the loom when you are tidying/chopping the rest of the old coil wiring otherwise the rev counter doesnt work properley

 

so it really is getting tidier with all the old sh1te out of the way....

 

nice one dave have you re gaped plugs stu's doing my ecu next week

 

yep, to 1mm, they are a funny tip i have to say..... ive gapped them as per pic...
using motorcraft 071C's from stu...


should the gap be 1mm as above , or 1mm vetically from the bottom of the tip to the top of the electrode...

 

the gap should be 1mm exactley as per the picture


and a lovely picture it is too

 

i'm such an artist

 

Well pleased you took the time to do that tutorial, nice work Dave

 

dave i allways fort that the filla gauge was placed flat ontop of the tip but could be wrong what boost pressure are you running

 

alan,

i know what you mean like on a normal plug...


but the 071 tip doesnt actually come over the electrode, so the phisical gap is 1mm between the 2 edges. boost 1.5 bar, but ive got this missfire now that needs sorting

 

missfire is this since you fitted the coilpack

 

no no no,, the missfire has been since i did the head gasket, but until now had put it down to the HT system as it was cruddy and had green mank on most of the connections, the coilacpk conversion has totally eliminated all that wiring that was suspect.

 

have you closed the gap.

i have to run 0.6mm on 57 plugs with the same coil pack, if i open it up it misses and cough's.

 

err, champion c57 get some better plugs, they dont idle very well and dont last vary long, mine had them in when i first got it and it run like a bag of spanners

 

the 57's let me run a larger gap, compared to my ngk9's.

 

Dave, which pins on ecu one's 26 but the other is it 6 or 9????


cheers

Paul

 

You will need a second cossie ignition amplifier.
You will only need 1 new wire from the ecu to under the bonnet. (ECU pin 26)

COIL 1 drives spark plugs 1 + 4
COIL 2 drives spark plugs 2 + 3

ORIGINAL AMPLIFIER
This list includes the original ignition wiring denoted by a *
Colours if shown may not be exact so refer using pin numbers.

* Pin 1: COIL 1 -(green) - Pin 1 on Coilpack
* Pin 2: EARTH - (Brown)
* Pin 3: SIGNAL GROUND - Pin 24 on ECU
* Pin 4: +12 volts ignition (BLACK/YELLOW)
* Pin 5: No connection
* Pin 6: INPUT - Pin 25 on ECU
* Pin 7: No connection

NEW IGNITION AMPLIFIER
# denotes wires can be connected to original amplifer plug above directly

Pin 1: COIL 2 - Pin 3 on Coilpack (Green\Red)
# Pin 2: EARTH
# Pin 3: SIGNAL GROUND - Pin 24 on ECU
# Pin 4: +12 volts ignition
Pin 5: No connection
Pin 6: Pin 26 on ECU
Pin 7: No connection

Additionaly, Coil pack centre pin (pin 2) connects to ignition +12v which
can be taken from Original ignition amplifier pin 4.

This will work on WEBER P8 and SECS S8 ecus with correct software/configuration.

Other ecu's will require extra drive board. (L1,L2,L6 and L8)

 

cheers Dave, i'm using L8 so i will need to get a board done by stu.

I have the loom and leads got them both at a show cheap

got a coil pack and extra amp

I'm thinking theres another wire to connect to ecu plug as my loom has two wires numbered 26 and 9 or 6 depending which way up.

Think the boards are in production now just waiting for dosh to do it


cheers

Paul

 

YEP, 26 IS THE SECOND AMP TRIGER (THE LOOM DOES ALL THE REST OF THE WORK) AND THE 9 IS THE DRIVE FROM THE ECU TO DRIVE THE FACTORY REV COUNTER WHICH TAKES ITS TRIGGER FROM THE ORIGINAL COIL

 

Thanks

 

which wires? Im stuck at this point but the pic is no longer there can anyone post me a pic so I know which wires to join?

 

here you go - its the plastic bit that is screwed to the body near the coil, it has just 2 green wires to it... chop them off and join them together than tape them into the loom, the surpressor can then be unscrewed and put in a same place with your old coil and leads



whole pic set here...

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v125/apbms1/coilpack/

 

thankyou