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Not if you are coming in and out of a big sideways lol
(Not that i condone that on the road)
I have had the car sideways quite a few times, a couple of times it was just under power and hit a wet patch.
My dad made me get our 528i BMW e28 sideways in the wet all the time with L plates on when I was learning to drive...his theory was teach me to control a car when he was there to help me and teach me than let me learn after passing my test. We used to also take our 16 sport mk2 escort on to army land and get that very crossed up.
Proper WRC breather will do away with un sightly hoses-tanks in the bay, thats what i have, i had a funky breather twin tank made by spec r to replace my original PS tank on my escos for my rack and gearbox, im running corsa EPS
Im also on a 7670 efr internally gated unit with turbosmart actuator, so i could retain my oe heatshield (moddified a little for turbo positioning) MAD manifold Zircotec coated
MIS inlet on the cold site
I understand that the WRC breather may not be up to the stroker unit but I may have that the wrong way around. I don't like the breather on my car now as I sometimes get smells in the car even though I made sure the bulkhead was really well sealed.
I also have a mad exhaust although mine was made a little different I think to fit the 205 engine bay, I had it zircotec coated too.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 10-01-2018 at 07:38 PM.
If your sticking at around 600 then the WRC breather (proper made one) should cope no problem, i have my atmos line hose routed a good distance underneath, plenty people run them at that power with no issues
Also i presume your car is prodomently road used and not a track car, that would be the deciding point for me
Its far too easy to get caught up with all this fancy stuff that really isnt needed for what the car is intended for
If your sticking at around 600 then the WRC breather (proper made one) should cope no problem, i have my atmos line hose routed a good distance underneath, plenty people run them at that power with no issues
Also i presume your car is prodomently road used and not a track car, that would be the deciding point for me
Its far too easy to get caught up with all this fancy stuff that really isnt needed for what the car is intended for
hi robert
all these parts that are not needed is that a mis plenum ,sequential gearbox ,trick dash etc lol
and its not the hp that dictates the breather a stroker moves a lot more air around plus its the rpm
mark
hi robert
all these parts that are not needed is that a mis plenum ,sequential gearbox ,trick dash etc lol
and its not the hp that dictates the breather a stroker moves a lot more air around plus its the rpm
mark
Personal preference on my parts Mark, as i was starting from scratch, see it time and time again and have been in that boat myself with all this WRC stuff etc it ended up ruining my project due to various reasons and something i would never do again as quite simply its not needed for road purposes, yes i have a few spunky parts on my Escort but i have drawn the line there with the car now and what it has now will be its final spec, the sequential box may even come out.......
This Pug is a great little car but i see it changing spec on a weekly basis
You are right about my spec changes, the problem as I see it with modified cars is that life is always a compromise. Manufacturers now spend millions of pounds developing cars to make them easy to live with. I want my Pug to be great to just jump in and drive all the time...at the moment I cannot as there are things that niggle me.
The shell is much smaller than a Sierra or Escos, not just shorter, it is much thinner so packaging is hard. for example the track width caused me a night mare, it was running huge camber (like over 2.5 degrees neg) just to get the front wheels tucked in the top of the arches, that was daft on a road car and after trying lots of different things I went with the WRC front to allow me to put the wheels where I wanted them.
The 6 degree beam improved the car massively but I would still like to tuck the wheels where I want them and as my coilover strut towards are basic to say the least and by doing a Cradle I can run front shox on the rear and have proper adjustment and get the track how I want it.
I expect my spec will move many more times yet.
The big engine is actually a cost effective way of avoiding a rebuild, my stock engine is pretty good but ideally I want head work, cams and long studs by the time I put some pistons in it and a crank it is easier to sell mine and buy the new one.
The reason I have gone elec power steering is to get me more space around the pulleys for better cooling as the fan was struggling in the very hot weather, I want to be able to sit in traffic jams without looking at the temp every 5 mins in full summer.
Also the biggest thing for me is having fun building it.
I suspect your gonna have some traction issues lol
Yes, that has already raised its head in the cold and wet weather. I have recently bought 8x16 comps to replace the 7x16 so that I can go from 195 tyres up to 215 and then swapped from Toyo proxes to Yokohama track day rubber in the hope that the sticky, softer tyres are better. (I have another set of 8 inch comps to try some tyres better suited for winter)
The 8's are really tight on the rear to fit under the arches and I am still trying to get the spring rates and geo where I want it before tackling the damping.
The 6 degree beam helped traction massively though.
A project car is sombodies personal vision of what they want to build and achieve its a journey i n my case a very long distance one lol will be epic mate i want a ride
A project car is sombodies personal vision of what they want to build and achieve its a journey i n my case a very long distance one lol will be epic mate i want a ride
Thanks, you totally get it and can have a go whenever you want
I think curiosity will make me go for the 7670, do not worry mate, if I do not lose much response I will want to know what Maclaren F1 power to weight ratio feels like.
I had a quick measure up today and if I cut 10mm out of the back of the lower part of the bumper and fill what is left with fibreglass to put the strength back I can shunt the intercooler 10mm forwards, I then can shave 10mm off the front pulley on the crank as no longer needed as have deleted the power steering hydraulic set up, I then need to cut a tiny bit of the front panel and can then fit the spec r top feed intercooler along with the much bigger rad that the 2.2 was run on with twin slim line fans (I think it is spec r too), this still leaves a gap for the air filter to sit right inside the front grille sucking fresh air.
Not 100% sure yet. Mark is making me a big wing sump for it at the moment with all the connectors on it (the one that was on it has been liberated) he has found me a mint sump to start with too so I can keep my one on my engine for when I sell it.
Will do, I plan to repaint the block and also weld up any holes in my engine bay that are not used and then have the engine bay painted as it was the only bit of the shell not done when I repainted it as the engine was in.
What’s your opinions on these wheels, personally I think I need to have the outlets made silver like the old fronts. These are Yokohama Road and track tyres, pretty sod 205/45/16 on 8 inch rims et28. I tried 215s but they were too big as the 45made the diameter too large. I prefer they way they look from the rear as the 195,s on 7 inch looked too skinny and the new engine is going to need all the rubber I can get.
I think there look good in white but you would end up cleaning them all the time lol
Funnily enough I have a set of the same wheels in white, they are et25 so need Mark Walker to spin them up in his big lathe to take 3 mm off the mounting face but may drop them off when I pick up the engine.
I pretty much clean the car every time I drive it so don’t mind a lot of wheel cleaning
I have been thinking of trying to get some carbon fibre dive plains for the front air dam, nothing over the top just a subtle nod to group b, plus still looking for a roof spoiler for it. I will speak to Dimma but I think it may not work with my kit. I have found one in carbo fibre but the side mounts look too Max power
Yeah I like the th2's, that is Terry Pankhursts car who owns Dimma, Mark Shead mapped it as it is a Mitsubishi Evo underneath, it is for sale for Ł38k at the moment.
The wing is a true group b rear wing off a t16, he had it for years and always wanted to build a car to put it on.
I am surprised being such a light car how well it does grip on the 195's, I think it is down to the 6 degree, lsd front and rear and the uprated v/c.....maybe lighter cars do not struggle as much as there is less inertia? If I hit a damp patch under full load in 2nd it will spin a bit but it is more like a torque steer which can be frightening. When the rear lets go on a bend it is quite controllable for such a short wheel base (22m shorter than a Sierra on the rear prop) but I think that is down to the softening of the suspension too.
It has 500ftlb now, it's gonna get 50 to 100 more plus 50 to 120 more bhp depending on the final turbo.
Yeah I like the th2's, that is Terry Pankhursts car who owns Dimma, Mark Shead mapped it as it is a Mitsubishi Evo underneath, it is for sale for Ł38k at the moment.
The wing is a true group b rear wing off a t16, he had it for years and always wanted to build a car to put it on.
I didn’t map it in the end as Terry didn’t go ahead with the Emtron upgrade Mark
10-01-2018, 05:51 PM
