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I am surprised being such a light car how well it does grip on the 195's, I think it is down to the 6 degree, lsd front and rear and the uprated v/c.....maybe lighter cars do not struggle as much as there is less inertia? If I hit a damp patch under full load in 2nd it will spin a bit but it is more like a torque steer which can be frightening. When the rear lets go on a bend it is quite controllable for such a short wheel base (22m shorter than a Sierra on the rear prop) but I think that is down to the softening of the suspension too.
It has 500ftlb now, it's gonna get 50 to 100 more plus 50 to 120 more bhp depending on the final turbo.
hi toby
are you sure your cars wheel base is only 22mm shorter than a 3 door
as a escort is 57 mm shorter
and a mk 6 fiesta is 122mm shorter
mark
Oops, mixed up my mms again, yes 22 cm shorter than Sierra.
I could run wider tyres in theory but most of the extra arch width is taken up with 4x4 system, don't forget that the 205 gti is much narrower track, so it is a case of what is left to fit tyres and wheels in, I need et25 / 28 to clear the suspension struts and brakes, if I go et 30 the rims hit stuff, et 20 and things poke out the arches.
What’s your opinions on these wheels, personally I think I need to have the outlets made silver like the old fronts. These are Yokohama Road and track tyres, pretty sod 205/45/16 on 8 inch rims et28. I tried 215s but they were too big as the 45made the diameter too large. I prefer they way they look from the rear as the 195,s on 7 inch looked too skinny and the new engine is going to need all the rubber I can get.
New wheel and tyre side view
New wheel and tyre rear view
Old front wheel and tyre
Old rear 195
is it me or do the front and rear look different offset?
They are in the pics, I was comparing before and after, the fronts on the pic are 7x16 et25 with 195 tyres....I really like the silver outer so was showing that as comparison. I will only ever run it with identical tyres and offset etc all round.
Yes, it is overkill but bullet proof and after I sell my engine it is cheaper than a rebuild.
I highly suspect I will go to 580 and my engine cannot do that, my engine would let go and this engine will go on forever and produce much more torque, spool up even earlier and Rev more.
For what I have paid it would cost the same for a reliable 500 engine.
I priced up Ł10k to get my engine where it would need to be, but much lower spec than this one. 2.2 spins the turbo up much earlier and makes more torque. Can't remember the turbo for 710 but a 9180 efr would be a safe 800 bhp on this engine.
I might drive in lower boost most of (which is still over 400bhp) the time now but I also use it in high, it's nice to have the option and I use low now as my engine is stock, mark feels 1.8 bar is safest on standard so I prefer the safety of low but would be different on bullet proof.
This engine far exceeds my spec and needs but the cost is the same as a compromise so why not? If I bend my car I would put the leftovers in to an 800bhp escos.
500 bhp spec is more cost than selling my engine and upgrading to this one.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 14-01-2018 at 07:55 PM.
New turbo, 10 long studs, crank, oil squirts, pocketed Pistons, inlet cam, headwork and a remap plus some labour for a safe pair of hands to screw it together. Incidentals such as gaskets, modified water pump for the long studs, oil pump, breather.new bearings. Head bolts, bolts for crank.
Big wing sump also
This leaves out rods, liners, Billet caps, solid lifters oil system, liners and long stroke etc....believe me, I have been over it sooo many times including ally block.
The good thing is I can sell this block and buy the ally one and only be 2-3k down, that is my long term plan.
It looks like I will be able to get the engine a little sooner than I thought, I am probably going to swap to the WRC front crossmember seeing as the engine will be out, these are stronger and lighter but more importantly it gives me alternative mounting point for the track control arms, mine run horizontal at normal rested suspension meaning they go inverted under compression which I believe is bad for bump steer and geometry so I can dial that out.
Mark is doing me a nice big wing sump at the same time.
So, engine will probably be here within 2 weeks and I am hoping Mark will have done the front WRC beam at the same time, I am having the engine mounts on the beam though as do not want to chassis mount the engine. I understand that the WRC cars did chassis mount and that way the whole front subframe and suspension was easy to remove with engine still in place. I am having rack mounts for power and non assist racks in case I delete the power steering altogether OR go full elec (corsa B) later.
We have struck a deal for the rear WRC cradle, mounts uprights etc... and some front top mounts to match. this will do away with the poor turrets on the back of my car and allow me to run 4 suspension / shox all the same all round.
Cool, I may be sending the car to MK shortly for the cradle work and it would maybe easier for you to pick the beam up from there based on where he is in Grimsby, compared to me in Surrey / Hants?
Toby your car is going to be an animal. Is it time you changed to the T 16 kit and got some really huge wheels on?
Mine is T16 Rallycross kit. I can't see anything allowing huge wheels unless I jack it up. The original t16 could fit wider rubber as it was not really much like a 205. I struggle as the 4x4 set up takes a lot of room up as my car is still thinner than an escos.
So today the gearbox is out, ready to go off to Bara for the 4th gear selector fork to be looked at. Engine is nearly out, turbo is off, inlet is off and loom all disconected. Diff nearly out.
Next weekend I will drop out the engine and strip the interior ready to take out the bolt in cage and for the weld in to be added to tie in with the Wrc rear cradle.
Had a really good chat with Bara yesterday about my Oppliger box popping out of 4th, I am going to drive the box up there and they are going to pop the bellhousing off for me whilst I watch and then check and replace the selector fork, they are convinced it is just that. I can then drive back same day. That is great support and service. He is such a nice bloke and remembered the spec of my car straight away and he did this work over a year ago.
Mark Walker MK is making me some longer bladed arms for my front ARB as I had a bit of a funny angle on the drop links due to where the bar is mounted, he is going to check the rears when my cradle is being done (cradle is built and being adapted for the Supra diff too) and I am having the front cross member done to take the manual rack too as Mark has got me an alloy rack with quaife internals to try....the Pug 205 was always heralded as the non PAS being the better drive, my little Gti is power steerring but I do remember my 1.6gti non PAS was a better car (might be rose tinted specs and it was a newer car back then)
Yes, It does my head in as it is two steps forward and one step back. If I started from scratch with what I know now I would not being doing and re-doing things but I want it right and therefore I just need to keep going.
Been speaking to MK a lot this week and we have worked out the weld in cage spec and a few other things. Mark Shead has also helped me a lot or things like the crank trigger spec for my new pulleys to save enough space for a bigger radiator and fan set.
Now that I am having full weld in cage with big door bars I am considering lightweight doors and have found a supplier of really high quality ones, they save over 40kg if I do away with the elec windows....I need to consider the practicalities but they can run wind up or elec windows if I go glass but they said lexan would scratch too easily.
I already have the carbon fibre bonnet which weighs less than a packet of crisps and the rear hatch is available and saves 20kg over standard so I should save back the weight of the cage and more as I already have a heavy bolt in cage. I am considering T45 steel to save a lot of weight.
Before you know it you'll be too light and needing aero. I've got Kevlar doors, composite tailgate, carbon bonnet, and fibreglass wings. I'm genuinely concerned it'll be too light on the rear.
T45 cage would be nice.
[QUOTE=smiley;6760417]Jon dont supose you know the weight of the mk2 v mk1?[/QUOTE
Hi jon will
Know but going on size and wheel base etc the mk2 is bigger so i would imagine
It will be heaveir
14-01-2018, 02:23 PM
will that beam fit sideways in a v60 sportbrake?
midlands mate
