I didn't build the engine Mark it was done by an engine builders up here in the north, the guy that built it knows these very very well so i don't suspect anything there.

I have just removed the cogged wheel to check for any damage or sharp teeth etc and their's a lot of belt fluff and one tooth down there, well all over the place really mixed in with oil. I can't work out if the oil is all from the top cam cover gasket or other lower seals, the lower seals are all Viton and gasket cometic - the sump gasket doesn't appear to be leaking so not sure. But i'm sending the motor back to the builders over the winter to check everything, renew the seals and gaskets and fit the head back on.

I'll be using a set of quaife pulley's as they look cool and they'll be new so should cause me any issues there, and i'll be getting the aux pulley checked and zinc coated as it's currently powdercoated

The only thing i can do is get all new or referb'd parts for the front and just keep my eye on it

 

To be fair the quaife are probably the best to use in the fact they can not slip Chris ! I hope it goes back together nicely for you mate such shit luck

 

The question is did he tension it and what tool did he use.

Mark

 

That i don't know Mark as i wasn't present when it was built but all i know is the Belt & tensioner was new with a new nut, it was tight to undo on Sunday as you would expect and the belt was correct before the engine went in to the car as i questioned it with him and he explained about what it should be like. From memory i think it dropped anticlockwise when loosened

The guy is a professional engine builder by trade for an engine builders and owns two Cosworth's himself so i can't question that as i would expect someone with over 20 years building engines day in day out to know all this stuff, it wasn't put together by an ametuer so i'm confident that isn't the issue.

 

Ask him the question about it as you will be surprised how many don't have the correct tool for that job and think 90dg turn is tight. A yb belt tensioned correctly is much tighter than you think it should be.

Mark

 

Should the belt be 'slackish' when the engine is stone cold, but tighten up a fair bit when warmed up?

 

The belt gets tensioned when cold then rechecked 2 hours or more after it has been run.

Mark

 

I never Knew that Mark. I never checked my t belt 2 hours after it was fitted.I do check the tension of the belt every now and then though.

 

Also not everyone checks the tension when the engines at TDC which makes a difference

 

The tension is checked turning engine backwards.

Mark

 

I've always used a tension gauge on the driven side while static, but then it is a lazy digital gauge

 

Mine is the ford recommended one so the scale works with the Manuel.

Mark

 

Oh ok thats what i need really, mines just a universal digital one cost a lot but can prove to be a c**t on some cars like renaults where there's no room

 

gutted for you

as far as I know a hard adonised surface is advised only, otherwise the components wear too fast, so the belt.

maybe this two facts caused it, the oil and the powdercoated aux pulley or it was a material defect but GATES belts are usually bullet proof.

 

In all the years I've never seen a timing belt strip like that due to an oil weap, I've seen the bloody things soaked in oil before and not cause that, I'd bee looking towards the pullies etc.

 

Mate, what a total pain in the arse! Sods law after all your hard work!

 

This is the thing the pulley's engage the belt perfect and it was never over tight - even on my last engine i had a cam cover leak but i have a cover over the pulley's so couldn't see and that belt was fine but so they say the issues i have suffered with a complete delamination on virtually every tooth points towards contamination.

Although i have learnt a few things from this and thats to make sure the engine is keeping it's fluids oil and water and to regularly check the belt - i'm even thinking about fitting the cover back on as their's a possibility something may have found it's way in causing this i'll never know.

 

Mate your probably right with contamination idea Because as for the over tensioned belt if it was to tight you can here the belt whining . Ive fiotted fucking dozens of cossie belts over the years and i bet many have on here and never used belt tension tools ect just common sense probably like your engine builder has and if it was to tight or fitted badly i bet my left bollock it would of failed way before now

 

Was so so gutted for you mate when you told me about this At Ford Fair after all the work you had put into making it such a spot on car, glad to see your straight back on it

Steve

 

Chris i've had a cover on and something got in and damaged my cambelt and 8 bend valves, if something comes in you're just unlucky i think

 

Well the new replacement bit's are starting to turn up

Big thanks to Kev for the cam cover - this is one of the parts going to the engineers and having the return fitting removed and fitted with a new base the same as my old cover which accepts a threaded AN10 fitting then off to the powdercoaters and at the minute i'm thinking Gloss Black but then i'm undecided on Escos BT Blue to match the hoses - then back to the engineers for skimming the top.



Next up is big Steve, Cossie4i for sending me replacement set of valves super quick which is a massive massive help and will get the job sorted a lot quicker out with the old and in with the new



Big up to James at MSD for coming to the rescue again & sorting me out with a replacement lead for the damaged one i found when stripping down



I'll be dropping the head off on Friday along with the turbo and cam cover. The turbo i'm hoping to have time serts fitted so i can mount by just adding nuts as this nut and bolt way just doesn't work and always comes loose and they fall out so this is getting sorted this time.
The head needs the combustion chambers checking and maybe a little work on some of the edges where the valve kissed before the lightest of skims.

It's a pain but i'll be replacing the stem seals all gaskets (although cometic) and all seals and O rings just to be on the safe side plus i don't 100% know if the oil leak was coming from the bottom or top - i made a massive mistake in powdercoating certain parts like bottom crank and Aux cover to make stuff look pretty but i'm just going to blast everything and give a very light coat of silver paint to stop surface rust as i want everything to tighten correctly and seals & gaskets to sit perfect (mating surfaces weren't P/C but the rest was) so just want it 100% this time.

I've bought a set of these as i like the look more and they seem the best and cheap enough, opted for Steel version



More updates after the weekend

 

Glad to see your cracking on with it chris, I also had reservations about my powder coated pulleys, im gonna strip mine now, its not worth taking the chance

 

Looking good on the mend then

 

Top lads Steve and James.This is what this site is all about helping each other out.

 

I just hope I don't need the valves, would be just my luck

Pleased to of been able to help Chris

Steve

 

sorry to read Chris.

don't break it though, just take your time and fix it when you can, you have done too much to this car to get rid of it now.

 

Glad to see your getting it sorted mate

 

Cheers lads, thats the head, cam cover & turbo at the engineers - the head is a simple fix and will receive a minimum skim and it's good to go - valve guides are looking fine up to now but are getting checked - one of the studs needs a helicoil.

The turbo is having 4 shouldered inserts sunk into the exhaust housing then i can get shot of the nut & bolt way which always comes loose.

The cam cover is having a threaded boss fitted in the rear, then off for paint - not sure which is the best option, paint or powdercoat - then back to the engineers for skimming.

The parts list is starting:

2 new oil filters
2 Viton cam seals
4x turbo stud kit
3x downpipe stud kit
new crank pulley washer
Quaife Cam pulleys
Gates cam belt
Front cover gasket
Aux gasket

Once the bottom end is out i'll be able to see if any other seals etc are needed

 

For what it's worth unless they've bin replaced I'd fit new F&R main sills

 

Everything was brand new when built 2400 miles ago last year - everything is being checked when it's removed - gearbox is coming out too and checked then the hydraulic clutch conversion is being fitted.

 

Nice one Chris and you have got the best pulley's there to

 

Fair dos, what hydro are you fitting internal release or external slave

 

It's a Reyland kit so external, just need to whip the box out and mod it to suit

Everything is modded ready on the pedal etc so pretty simple installation once all the engine is out.

One thing i need to know regards to the bottle is can it be installed near the battery as i have no space on the exhaust side due to breather, heat shield and other part in the way so theirs no problem with a longer from the bottle?

 

People like Martin and the guys at reyland and every other engineer for making the bolt on kits make it some much easier now days for us to modify and upgrade everything,

Does the kit come with a modified fork or is it modified to suit a standard fork

Can you not run a pipe of the brake res, or is it safer to run a seperate bottle

 

The kit is complete with a pedal box but i only need the clutch pedal so i'll remove the dash over the winter to replace with a Sapphire dash top whilst the 3dr one get's repaired so i'll fit it all then.

 

Ah cool sounds like a good piece of kit

 

hope u get it sorted asap

 

I've got some time now as i've got a new addition to the family and possible start in a new career so i've got my hands full but i'll do it slowly over the winter months

 

Well it's slow but i've started to get the bit's in

Sorted all the replacement gaskets, viton cam seals, oil filters, new Genuine water pump nuts, bolts and washers - crank pulley washer - picked up a replacement Aux pulley cover as i powdercoated the one on the car but i'm doing away with all that kind of fancy shit off this build it's going to be more functional over fancy, so bottom cover is being removed and blasted too.

Also picked a great great bargain up off ebay, a full brand new set of inlet and exhaust valves and brand new valve guides for the price of one set of valve guides, gotta love ebay (sometimes)



I've been after a set of grill vent covers for years but never got around to buying a set so got some cheap off ebay, maybe only fit the passenger side though as i picked up one of those K&N air filter socks from Matt Lewis to protect from the elements

Pulled my spare rear bumper out of the attic and it'll be going in for paint soon as it's the better of the two bumpers i have (well around the tailpipe, me being fussy) other for sale in Cos section on here

The head, turbo and cam cover are still away as i've been so busy with the new job so haven't had time to even go down and see if they're ready but i'll try this week at some point

Updates soon

 

Have you split with your las now?

Theres no way id be aloud all that in the kitchen