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Peugeot 205 with 4wd cosworth engine and running gear.

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Old 10-05-2015, 04:19 PM
  #401  
Caddyshack
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This weekends fun: I re fitted the alloy strut brace on the front that would not fit with the efr, a bit of heat and persuasion with a hammer to flat a little section and fits a treat. I got out the da with various grades of wet n dry, 320, 400, 500, 800, 1200 then 2000 before I gotbthe rotary out with auto sol....came up well so did the alloy top mounts too before refitting.
Then the adjustable track control arms and emptied all the water ready for the Evans waterless coolant.
There were a few electric bits I wanted to do in the engine bay.
I think a few more hard days at it and we should be running.
Old 10-05-2015, 08:51 PM
  #402  
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Bet you can't wait to get it running.
Old 11-05-2015, 11:52 AM
  #403  
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Originally Posted by stu21t
Bet you can't wait to get it running.
Its doing my head in! I just want to get out there in it now as it has been so long.
Old 11-05-2015, 12:25 PM
  #404  
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How do you think I feel? It's been 4yrs lol.
Old 11-05-2015, 02:25 PM
  #405  
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Polished strut brace now clears all of the engine
Old 11-05-2015, 02:26 PM
  #406  
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Here you can see the cleaned strut tops, the bits of tape etc will be replaced to remove the overspray from poor masking
Old 11-05-2015, 10:53 PM
  #407  
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Have you got much to do now mate ?
Old 12-05-2015, 08:03 AM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by COLEYST200
Have you got much to do now mate ?
Small jobs really mate:


New boost pipes to suit the hart inlet, connect a vacuum pipe from hart inlet to the new servo (just pipe needed), new windscreen washer jet wires and pipes as I have relocated the washer to the boot, new brake lines to suit the new master cylinder, flush the system for the Evans waterless coolant and connect up the ETS pro gearbox controller to the throttle position sensor (1 wire) and then the new throttle cable.


I am sure I will find a few other jobs but it is just fiddly stuff that all takes time.


Lots of bits arriving all the time so should have stuff to get on with this weekend.
Old 12-05-2015, 10:07 PM
  #409  
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Hi mate nice chatting again today I'm sorry the two boxes I'v got the switches are not working and I will need to jack the focos up to chech witch one is the revers switch
Old 13-05-2015, 07:38 AM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by COLEYST200
Hi mate nice chatting again today I'm sorry the two boxes I'v got the switches are not working and I will need to jack the focos up to chech witch one is the revers switch
Hi Mate,


No worries, I think the switches fail a lot from what I read on line. I think the rear most one is the neutral switch and the front is reverse.


Good to speak to you too, thanks for the call.
Old 05-06-2015, 08:14 AM
  #411  
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The brake lines finally turned up so I can now carry on and try to finish it, not too much left to do.
Old 06-06-2015, 12:05 PM
  #412  
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Good to here it's all most done now mate . Have you sorted the wiring out now ??
Old 06-06-2015, 12:59 PM
  #413  
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Originally Posted by COLEYST200
Good to here it's all most done now mate . Have you sorted the wiring out now ??
Yes, 99%. I had a dead short on a faulty brake light switch, It was draining the battery and melted the wires. Few more little wiring jobs to do.

Brake lines in today, remade the centre console with new elec window switches, bolted up the pedal box and made new windscreen washers....also fitted new pinch bolts in the track control arms.
Old 06-06-2015, 05:28 PM
  #414  
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Sounding like your pushing on big time mate
Old 06-06-2015, 06:42 PM
  #415  
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Trying my best. I put a carbon cam cover on today.

I also fitted twin pumps to wash the windscreen, I am really pleased with how neat they plumbed. I need to set up the adjustable track control arms.
Old 07-06-2015, 11:36 AM
  #416  
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My starter seemed jammed so I took it out, earthed it and it span perfectly so I tried to turn the flywheel and it is locked solid...I wonder if my repair "weld" is too proud and locking? Looks like Box out again to look for witness marks....kind of wished I had gone opplliger long box now lol. I know the end will be better with the 4wd control etc but this really tests my commitment!
Worst of all I have just filled the system with prep fluid for the waterless so if the engine needs to come out then I will need to reuse it as the engine needs to be run up to temp with it in.....oh well, i might just send the bell housing to mk for a better repair and might get Bara to fit a close ratio kit whilst it is out. Just put Ł100 of shock proof in the box too!
Old 08-06-2015, 06:13 AM
  #417  
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Hi mate I will ring you today some time to have a chat .
As you said this would be doing my head in now all so but we will sort it .
Old 08-06-2015, 06:59 AM
  #418  
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Nice project.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:08 AM
  #419  
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Great to see the car coming along, looking forward to seeing the finished product!
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:36 AM
  #420  
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It should be pretty good when done, just everything seems to take forever....for instance I am running two washer fluid pumps from the rear of the car to the front, by the time I had neatly attached all the pipework with plastic P clips, wired it all and mounted the tank that was very nearly most of a Saturday on that one little bit. I have now got the neutral light sorted and the reverse light.
Old 08-06-2015, 12:17 PM
  #421  
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That's the difference in doing it once and doing it right.
Once the car is finished you shouldnt need to do anything other wash it and drive it.
Whereas a car that's thrown together needs constant attention.
I do something in the middle as I'm impatient lol.
Old 10-06-2015, 05:32 PM
  #422  
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I released off all of the gearbox bolts by 3 turns this afternoon after work and the ring gear freed up so it is either the input shaft being too long and binding or the repair snagging on the ring gear.

Coley thinks it is the input shaft not correctly measured.
Old 10-06-2015, 05:50 PM
  #423  
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Easy fix put two cover plates on ?
Old 10-06-2015, 07:13 PM
  #424  
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Originally Posted by graham c
Easy fix put two cover plates on ?
Funnily enough that had crossed my mind, coley thinks I can probably just grind the end off.
Old 10-06-2015, 08:33 PM
  #425  
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Or yes bit then you need to take the box rite out instead of backing it off a bit
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:46 PM
  #426  
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Originally Posted by graham c
Or yes bit then you need to take the box rite out instead of backing it off a bit
I like your thinking, it would save a huge amount of hassle. I might give it a try...thanks
Old 10-06-2015, 09:28 PM
  #427  
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I had to do that on my car,
I have a cossie engine and a Renault un1 gearbox.
I was having clutch problems and I made another plate to sit between the engine/box. I cut it out of 2mm aluminium and left the old tin one in there and it worked a treat.
Just back the box off by a few mm and take the bolts out.
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Old 11-06-2015, 07:54 AM
  #428  
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Originally Posted by stu21t
I had to do that on my car,
I have a cossie engine and a Renault un1 gearbox.
I was having clutch problems and I made another plate to sit between the engine/box. I cut it out of 2mm aluminium and left the old tin one in there and it worked a treat.
Just back the box off by a few mm and take the bolts out.


I am certainly going to try it. I ordered another Cossie one last night so hopefully here at the weekend. I can see they have a split in them to get past the input shaft so should be straight forward.....even if this is only temporary until I have the box rebuilt with the close ratio kit in it then I will be happy.
Old 11-06-2015, 09:54 AM
  #429  
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Yea they're split to get past the input shaft but you need to remove the box off the dowels (if you have them) there should be one either side of the engine. The std tin ones are quite thin though, you may need to cut a thicker one like I did.
Old 11-06-2015, 10:02 AM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by stu21t
Yea they're split to get past the input shaft but you need to remove the box off the dowels (if you have them) there should be one either side of the engine. The std tin ones are quite thin though, you may need to cut a thicker one like I did.


Cool Thanks, I will draw around the new one when it turns up as I can get any thickness laser cut for pennies.


Yes, mine does have dowels.


In theory I may be able to get one cut in decent ally and have that welded to my bell housing to add back in the strength.


Thanks for the help
Old 11-06-2015, 01:49 PM
  #431  
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Doesn,t it go on the engine between that and the flywheel ? it may have to be cut in half all together?
Old 11-06-2015, 03:28 PM
  #432  
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Originally Posted by ossie cossie
Doesn,t it go on the engine between that and the flywheel ? it may have to be cut in half all together?
Thanks, I had decided to cut it in half, plus at the bottom my one had just 2 bolts but there is provision for 4 so I studded the other two with studs on the block side so I will need to allow for them to slot in as would need to move the box back about 4 inches to allow for them and I would rather move it as little as poss.
Old 12-06-2015, 03:19 AM
  #433  
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Wow what a weapon! Nice to see it being modernised
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:58 AM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by Caddyshack
Thanks, I had decided to cut it in half, plus at the bottom my one had just 2 bolts but there is provision for 4 so I studded the other two with studs on the block side so I will need to allow for them to slot in as would need to move the box back about 4 inches to allow for them and I would rather move it as little as poss.
My only concern with doing that is would it rattle on the joint?
Obviously not around the outside, but in the middle near the input shaft, unless you cut a 5mm gap maybe? But it may still rattle against the other plate?
I know it won't be much but could be very annoying.
I don't think it's neccisarry to cut tbh.
As the gap is at the top you can just slide it up from below.
Old 13-06-2015, 11:55 AM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by stu21t
My only concern with doing that is would it rattle on the joint?
Obviously not around the outside, but in the middle near the input shaft, unless you cut a 5mm gap maybe? But it may still rattle against the other plate?
I know it won't be much but could be very annoying.
I don't think it's neccisarry to cut tbh.
As the gap is at the top you can just slide it up from below.
Wouldn't the clamping force of bell to block squish it?
Old 13-06-2015, 12:15 PM
  #436  
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Only around the edges mate
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Old 13-06-2015, 02:53 PM
  #437  
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Well in that case cut it to the shape of the bell housing only use it as 1 big washer. ????

Last edited by ossie cossie; 15-06-2015 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 14-06-2015, 10:25 AM
  #438  
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I have done it as a washer now, thanks to you lot for the input. I have got it all loose fitted and will slowly torque it down next week as have to go out later. I will test the ring gear for movement at each stage but it seems to have done the trick.

The project feels soooo close to finish but I still have a list of jobs as long as my arm.

I added the prep fluid for the waterless and it seems to have created a tiny drip that I cannot locate the source of. I wonder if the prep fluid is thinner than water in terms of cold viscosity and therefore it's finding a weak point....I will have to fix that first after speaking to their technical help desk later in the week.
Old 15-06-2015, 11:39 PM
  #439  
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This is what one looks like.
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can you show me where you cut it just in case i have to do it as well.
Thanks.

Last edited by ossie cossie; 15-06-2015 at 11:40 PM.
Old 15-06-2015, 11:51 PM
  #440  
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Hi Toby

How much did you pay for your ETS-Pro controller delivered to the uk mate

I'm looking at getting the same for the fiesta but not sure on added tax and shipping costs ect, want to see if somebody can send me as a gift instead to save import duty


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