Peugeot 205 with 4wd cosworth engine and running gear.
#1401
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iTrader: (2)
Looks in good condition.
One thing to be aware of is that on older lathes the cross slide graduations are the actual movement of the slide.
This means that if you take a 20 thou cut you will reduce the diameter by 40 thou - which is fine as long as you remember !
Newer stuff tends to show half the movement so 20 thou is 20 from the diameter.
Have fun making stuff
One thing to be aware of is that on older lathes the cross slide graduations are the actual movement of the slide.
This means that if you take a 20 thou cut you will reduce the diameter by 40 thou - which is fine as long as you remember !
Newer stuff tends to show half the movement so 20 thou is 20 from the diameter.
Have fun making stuff
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Caddyshack (19-02-2017)
#1402
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Wow love the old 1950s lathes. The possibilities are endless with equipment like that in your garage. We had one for years at work, bolted in the same place since the 60s but my boss just sold it for £500 on eBay as we haven't used it now in about a year and none of our apprentices are interested in using it or learning so he sold it. Gutted really as I'm sure now we'll prob need it loads again
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Caddyshack (19-02-2017)
#1403
PassionFord Regular
as far as i know, at that time, they used to let age cast iron for machine tool chassis' for a couple of years. so the chassis came out very strong and it won't vibrate like the newer ones, (from 80's on... but it ain't said).
this is true for italy, but i guess it's true for britain too. british steel is famous to be a very fine product, especially back in the days.
once figured out speeds in relation to materials, tools, (and coolant if you're using it), you'll take some real work of art out of it.
(with new tool materials, you should be able to spin and progress a bit more faster than what you can read on 30-20yo manuals)
just need good flooring and to catch up the end-plays... then enjoy that toy!
this is true for italy, but i guess it's true for britain too. british steel is famous to be a very fine product, especially back in the days.
once figured out speeds in relation to materials, tools, (and coolant if you're using it), you'll take some real work of art out of it.
(with new tool materials, you should be able to spin and progress a bit more faster than what you can read on 30-20yo manuals)
just need good flooring and to catch up the end-plays... then enjoy that toy!
Last edited by rooos; 20-02-2017 at 07:24 PM.
#1404
10K+ Poster!!
Thanks Roos, learning by youtube at the moment.
What sort of flooring?
What sort of flooring?
#1405
PassionFord Regular
in my hereabouts there's a lot of humidity, (it's an ex-swamp) and quite often, the floor collapses under the weight of heavy machines during the time. how fast depend on how much it works, quality of the floor, humidity beneath.
working on warped floors, may cause a little chassis warp (not in a definite way for the chassis though, it's still an elastic object).
it can still work with good tolerances, but it could be source of little errors, depending on how big are the items you're working on.
couldn't understand how heavy is your lathe by that pic.
if it's an heavy duty one, take care of sharing the weight on the widest surface, for not damaging the flooring.
more over as a general rule, take care of having the supports well levelled. you can verify that with an "air-bubble-in-water" level on the turret slides (sorry, donno how it's called).
it's up to the precision you want to take out of it. but since you got it, some little affordable precautions will make it better.
maybe some machine tool installer can give you some more advice about this.
you may also find useful technical high school books on that matter, (as i did). for the start, there are just a couple of multiplication to do, to figure out speeds. once learnt that, you'll learn using it, same as for any other device, machine, car... then for advanced skills, any info comes handy. don't worry too much, it'll be a piece of cake for you too.
hoping this is useful...
keep us posted mate!
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Caddyshack (21-02-2017)
#1406
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Thanks Roos. It is not that heavy, 2 people can lift it in 2 parts. It is is on a flat and level concrete floor so I am confident that will be ok.
#1407
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a pic of the badge that Monster has made for me
#1408
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Back end in place and exhaust is now level...just for Jonfoc
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jonfoc (21-02-2017)
#1411
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Yeah, as Jay says, they are really good. It is better now that I have sunk it in the ground as it doesn't get in the way when not in use but it wouldn't be a deal breaker and you COULD add a pit but I didn't see the need
I have a roller trolley and a seat on wheels that you can move up and down and I find it really comfortable and useful.
the ramp only blocks the sills and if you wanted to access those you can just add more rubber protectors to lift it clear. You can move them too as they have wheels that slip under.
I have a roller trolley and a seat on wheels that you can move up and down and I find it really comfortable and useful.
the ramp only blocks the sills and if you wanted to access those you can just add more rubber protectors to lift it clear. You can move them too as they have wheels that slip under.
#1414
10K+ Poster!!
Yep, mine weighs about 500kg so could leave an imprint in soft tarmac but it rolls on my plastic garage floor without marking it but if you jacked a car up with a trolley jack that would mark my floor. My concrete happens to be thick and re-inforced but it would sit on any normal garage floor. Runs off a 13 amp plug too.
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MONSTER (22-02-2017)
#1415
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I thought I would grab 40 mins out of the office after lunch as some metal bar arrived, I fired up the lathe and started making my first part....extension for the anti roll bar, drilled a hole through the bar for the bolt to pass through and turned down the end to the correct diameter and depth to mate to the rose joint, next job is to get the other end ready and cut to the correct length.
#1416
Advanced PassionFord User
Loving the new flat exhaust mate. Just out of interest, what do those ramps cost?
#1417
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http://sm-t.co.uk/product-category/v...scissor-lifts/
#1418
Advanced PassionFord User
Well it's a trolley jack and axle stands for me!!!
#1419
Advanced PassionFord User
Just a shame about those shonky rear dampers now!
#1420
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#1421
PassionFord Regular
I thought I would grab 40 mins out of the office after lunch as some metal bar arrived, I fired up the lathe and started making my first part....extension for the anti roll bar, drilled a hole through the bar for the bolt to pass through and turned down the end to the correct diameter and depth to mate to the rose joint, next job is to get the other end ready and cut to the correct length.
i like each pic you post of that car, that peugeot looks really massive
well done with the exhaust too...
#1422
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#1423
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I felt the car was a little nervous in the straight ahead, almost like play in the rack, I bought new steering arms from a 4x4 from burtons and cut them down to suit but each at the same width, the old ones were slightly out, re-did the tracking and also found a little play in one of the pins on the steering arms (replaced the track rod ends) I found that the rose joints were not getting full articulation so made up some shims with a bit more room and then really tightened up the pin, re-tracked the car and now it is perfect. Very happy man today.
I took my mate for a blast up the road and he couldn't believe how quick it was. I think the 0-100 mph must be under 8 seconds. Best guess is between high 6/ 7 and low 8 but that is only using a bum dyno and comparing to other 8 second cars that I have driven. If you look at cars around the 500 bhp per ton they tend to do the sprint in about that time.
I took my mate for a blast up the road and he couldn't believe how quick it was. I think the 0-100 mph must be under 8 seconds. Best guess is between high 6/ 7 and low 8 but that is only using a bum dyno and comparing to other 8 second cars that I have driven. If you look at cars around the 500 bhp per ton they tend to do the sprint in about that time.
#1424
PassionFord Post Troll
Weldine mate glad your happy made all your hard graft worth it
#1425
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#1426
cossie fan (unluckerly)
#1427
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Mark thinks a 2.4 on 7670 will make less peak power than 2.2 but maybe 600 ftlb, imagine that in under a ton.
Last edited by Caddyshack; 24-02-2017 at 05:27 PM.
#1428
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Thanks mate, been texting Mr Shead today for his advice on 2.2 vs 2.4 for a road car. I don't have a power target, just loads of torque and throttle response.
Mark thinks a 2.4 on 7670 will make less peak power than 2.2 but maybe 600 ftlb, imagine that in under a ton.
Mark thinks a 2.4 on 7670 will make less peak power than 2.2 but maybe 600 ftlb, imagine that in under a ton.
Mark
#1429
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Have been toying with selling my 205 1.9, if it gets £10-£12k that helps towards a good spec.
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#1431
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#1432
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Stage insane i like it
#1433
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On the 2.2 vs 2.4 could you give me a quick run down mate did you say your limited in the revs on the 2.4?
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#1435
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Need to give you a call mate i think cheers mark
#1436
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I don't think the 2.4 revs as easily as a 2.2.
#1437
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Who needs revs with 600lbft though? My 330d with BM power pack makes around 500lbft, it doesn't go above 5000 rpm but with close ratio 8 speed box it doesn't need to stretch.
#1438
PassionFord Post Troll
True mate i guess im stuck in the past in my street race days the sounds high tevs banging off the limiter i never grew up lol
#1440
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I think we are talking 7500 vs 8500 though, still big revs. Mine ran to around 7000 today and it didn't need more, there is so much torque that by 6k you can change up and in to the big power again. 4K to 5.5k is so immense that you change up anyway