Caddyshack

Yep, getting closer...then it can go off to the trimmers for the rear shelf and carpet set and then I can enjoy it before embarking on the 2.2l long stroke.

whizzisat114

iTrader: (2)

Love the badges Toby they'll look cool all painted up ��

Caddyshack

The beam is here and looks a million times better in the flesh, really pleased with it. It took Mark 4.5 hours to get here.

smiley

Had a good long think about the smith & jones id want the head aswell maybe in future

Caddyshack

I don't see why people want the head so much, the cossie head is the bit that made a Cossie not a pinto. I get that the bores match the head but it is still an ally casting and I can get mine ported etc to suit.

I get it for a N/A build more.

Not saying that you are wrong, just haven't seen why I would need it? I am not chasing massive numbers.

jonfoc

If I were you Toby I'd do exactly what Mark says. There are many tuners on here and I'm yet to read of one that would question his knowledge, I may be wrong. If I had a cosworth and I was looking to improve it, I'd ask him or Stuart at msd.

Caddyshack

It is deffo going to Mark. I will guided by him but the budget will also need to dictate things, hence not changing the head.

jonfoc

Wise, just chip into the millions stashed under your bed! You got that beam on yet?

Caddyshack

Lol,

Not started the beam yet, pretty busy with a few things. Will make a start at some point this week though.

smiley

Lol bit of a joke mate seen the price? 😂

ajamesc

Do you think even after yours is at a point that's pretty much finished and it turns out to be and amazingly quick capable car as is your still build a more powerful engine?

smiley

Std crank in the new one or arrows? I know its not needed at your target just wondering if your going all new bottom

Caddyshack

@ ajamesc....Tough choice really, the car does go very well but I think I would really like the bottom end throttle response of the long stroke and I am aware that my engine has not be rebuilt in 20 years, it does puff a bit of smoke at times, cylinder leak down and compression test were perfect though. I like the concept of 25kg weight saving but I am not 100% convinced I would use any more power that often...tough choice really.

I am certainly not in any rush

My psych profile says I am very likely to modify and alter things.....

@ Smiley Mark says "would you want to put a 20 yr old crank back in a Ł4k block?" which probably means that I would go for an Arrow. If I bend the car and write off then I would probably buy an Escort Cossie shell and go closer to 650bhp which might only be a turbo swap and manifold change if the bottom end is all done ready??????

smiley

Good plan mate id be the same re crank

ajamesc

Don't think I'd spend all that money on a modern block then fit an old crank iver I'd have to fit an arrow which is a big expense

Caddyshack

Yeah, I was offered an unused one for Ł1800 but didn't buy it and now he is needing it on his new build. I think a new one will be around Ł2k or more.

I know it wont be a cheap build but I hope I can gain a fair chunk back on my 200 block and crank as I do not believe it has ever been apart other than a metal head gasket being fitted.

As Ajamesc says, I may just find that I am happy with how it is and leave it all alone, if it ever needs a rebuild I can go for it but it kind of makes sense to sell it knowing it is a good engine.

Cams, oil pump, oil jets, rods, pistons, bearings, head work, gaskets Marks time plus the re-mapping, big wing sump, long studs and I am sure there are many other things ...to find....it all adds up very quickly but if I can buy bits as I go and then sell my engine at the end it may not be a big hit.

smiley

Yes bit by bit is the only way for me i'll get thier one day lol

Caddyshack

I nipped out for 40 mins today so mounted the diff to the beam (simple job and not using the fitting kit is def the way to go mine can still take a std diff too). Then mated the the beam to the chassis, just need to bolt the shox back on and tighten the diff mount then add back drive shafts and brakes.

Caddyshack

Mark took my old beam and he said he is going to do a few more like it now. I had the hangars put on so I can run standard OR bladed rear arb too. Nothing at all has been cut off this beam so all options open.

smiley

I wish you liked taking pictures abit more how much was the beam if you dont mind me asking?

Caddyshack

I will take some pics of it soon.

I think the beam was around Ł1300 powered coated and adapted.

smiley

Cheers toby

Caddyshack

It's in!







Supra diff mounted directly on the beam



Diff hanger is pretty close but there is about 10mm air gap

Mark V8

iTrader: (2)

Much nicer solution than all those brackets to hold the diff in


How do you go about setting the geometry up roughly until a specialist can look at it ?

smiley

Like that alot mate

Caddyshack

I have got tracking gauges and camber gauge so will set it as close to straight as poss and measure each side as best I can then drive slowly and carefully to the laser place about 10 miles from me. Then will get a guru on it.

rooos

totally agree!
i'd say another good investment and job done...
keep us posted mate...

Jay,

iTrader: (4)

Hi Toby I use a digital angle gauge to ! Oh my new ramps will be here today lol can't wait

Caddyshack

Cool as, what ramps did you go for in the end?

Get a pic up.

Caddyshack

Mark tells me that his new covers will allow more room around the diff hangar and lugs.

Caddyshack

Just got the prop back in and all lined up straight on the new mounts that I made, these tie in to the seat belt mounts and through the floor so the centre bearing is now dead straight and well supported.

I need to slacken off the joint on the quick shift as it had jumped out of 4th gear, Mark Shead thinks a few turns looser may help it go in to gear better, if not then it is back offf to Bara for a new selector fork.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

I had the same problem with my diff hanger so I trimmed down the head on the bolts to give it a bit more room

Caddyshack

Here are the centre bearing mounts that I made.



Drive shafts bolted in. Will powder coat them at some stage

smiley

Awesome did you drill and tap the cover yourself mate mine will need doing want to run cooler

markk

iTrader: (2)

That joint at the box wont work.
The nvh will be terrible and the stress will break something. You need a flexy joint at the box, whether it is a piece of rubber or a uj, but you need something.

Caddyshack

No, it came done.

Caddyshack

Lots of people have solid mounted theirs. Not all cars have a flexi.

Harvey at scs sells, or used to sell, a billet conversion. MK also recommends doing away with the rubber. I am pretty sure the Reyland Escos didn't have one and Mark Shead didn't seem to have an issue.

If there is vibration then I will go back to normal.

The way I see it is that every rubber joint in the suspension is now a rose joint, nvh has gone out the window....but, it is not that much more noisey than usual. The rubber donut was a very basic Cush drive for nvh without a doubt but it can work without as long as there is no deflection in the driveline.

Caddyshack

Wenny used a lowbro joint so I could go down that route if this is a problem. I believe some have put a uj in there instead.

Caddyshack

If it doesn't work then I will change it and improve it, the car is a journey so I am learning as I go, if something breaks then I will develop it. We will know in a few days if it works or not

markk

iTrader: (2)

Something will break. You have rubber/plastic in the engine mounts and box mounts andca rotating shaft with a floating center mount bearing, of course you have movement and movement creates misalignment in any driveshaft.

I never speak without having experience. Been there done that.