pikey ripoff welsh garage nobheads didnt do mine properly (or even put in enuf coolant for that matter ) n its starting to be a pain in the arse doin it myself...

i always struggle to do it

so anyone got any tips n tricks other than just keep squeezin the hoses n toppin the water up when the level gets low?

 

I always leave the highest hose from the rad disconnected (thermostat site, hold hose up a bit higher) while I fill up trough the header thank, when water starts pissing out I connect the hose.

fill up a bit more, start engine, keep filling up.
then let water cook / bubbles escape while topping up if needed.
Job done, never had problems like that.

 

take top hose off thermostat and blow into the header tank.

 

top hose off thermostat you ever seen a 2.8 v6

(just jokin by the way )

 

nope... and hopefully won't ever

 

@ me

 

Not sure on your engine Jim without seeing it.

Its fookin important though, I cooked an engine on the dyno today because of an air lock. (Wasnt me who filled it up and didnt bleed it tho! ). Set the engine up on the dyno, got it running set it to 95nm load and 1800rpm, left it running for 10 whilst I paid a visit to the shithouse, got back to find smoke pissing off of it, head looking a rather goldish colour and the EGT at 632degC. (Max for this engine spec was 400degC). Oops Another one scrapped then

So kids, never underestimate the importance of bleeding your engine propperly!

 

Jim your engine should be self bleeding so couldn't be easier.
Make sure car is level (not on hill etc) fill header tank to the max mark run engine
with the cap off keep adding water as and when needed make sure heater warms up with engine leave running untill the viscous fan winds up and engine reaches normal running temp replace cap and retest.

Hope this helps matey.

 

dean, trust me its not that easy (unfortunately)

 

You need the right tool for the job and its a piece of cake

http://www.toolrealm.com/c/Cooling/L...B00021TS50.htm

 

thats cool... how does it work then?

 

it makes the funnel the highest point in the cooling system

I have one and it works great

you can fill the rad through the funnel and run the car with the funnel in place. fill it about 1/3rd of the way up with coolant and let the car run until the t-stat opens a few times. squeeze the upper coolant hose a few times while the car is running to get rid of any air bubbles

gravy

 

Jim it should be this easy. I've never had any problems bleeding these engine this way. Are you sure there aren't any other problems, leaks, blockages etc

 

well last time i tried using that method it didnt work n i ended up spending hours of pumping hoses n warming up/ cooling down etc. etc.

this time i've not actually tried that yet ops;... just done the whole "let it get fookin hot, bung on cap, then top up when it cools down n level drops" so might try that tomorrow (means putting the viscous back on tho )

thing is the car dont overheat or nuffin, its just that the temp fluctuates a bit when cruising, and runs hotter than usual in traffic... so unless this garage have done something SERIOUSLY wrong when replacing stat+waterpump i assume it's be the same as it was or even better perhaps?

 

thats how i did my car jim after i put the new rad on

 

Jim it is that easy mate.
Sounds like you have a prob there maybe the radiator is starting to block same thing happened to me try flow testing the rad before you try bleeding it again.
your only wind up blowing headgaskets etc..

 

This isn't exactly rocket science, Jim.....its not that tough

 

wait, the rad is blocked... one corner doesnt get hot, so i assume theres a blockage down there...

the rad has seen better days as i got it from a scrappy...

is this relevant?

ps reason i havent swaped it yet is ive been too lazy to get off my bum n go n pick up my new rad... lol

 

jim

 

No wounder you cant bleed the damn thing

 

Jim your a cock, im supprised people even try to help when your such a pikey.

 

i still dont quite understand how its relevant... does the blockage cause a permanent airlock or something? ive managed to get it perfect before on the same rad, hence why i dont see the direct link...

 

 

oh wow karl what an informative answer. youve found someone who DOESNT KNOW as much as yourself so feel you have to insult them... i hope that makes you sleep better at night and feel less inadequate

an answer along the lines of "yes its relevant" or "no its not relevant coz it was fine before welsh pikeys touched it" would have been just as quick to post and actually USEFULL

 

Jim, how fookin dare you reply with that attitude when normally I do take time to help if I can.

I posted that smiley because you're a cock of the highest order! Your radiator is blocked, you say you have'nt changed it because you can't be arsed and yet wonder why your coolant circuit doesnt function properly.

As said you're a cock!!

 

sorry... did someone say Jim was a cock?



didnt i preach this MONTHS ago!

Jim..

you are a COCK

 

pmsl where is the hammer one?

 

karl, how dare i? what the fuck, you better than me or something?

yeah youve helped me before and i've been greatful, but posting a smiley for the sake of it... thats arrogant, and if you dont realise that then youre a bellend

my line of thinking was 1) its been perfectly fine before with the same rad 2) its only losing circa 10% of its surface area making it still more than efficient enuf to keep the temps down

dave, GET THE FUCK OFF MY THREAD YOU WANKER

 

err...



no



blah blah blah blah blah blah

 

Jim its probably not an airlock but a lack of flow through the rad.

Go buy a new one.

 

Jim even if the rad is partly blocked this will have a massive affect on the flow of coolant. Jim this is very common, tried and tested. get your self a new rad..

 

thank you deam for a proper reply giving me both an answer and a reason why... its v. helpful...

 

the Euro cars (2.8 & 2.9) had a similar problem, we developed a new rad and header tank to solve it.

 

what problem? blocked rads or hard to bleed coolant?

p mine's an early car with the 4 outlet radiator, not the later 2.8s which only had the 2 outlets

also mate how much to re-core my spare rad if i pop it in the post to you?

 

Top tip :

stop being a PIKEY, and if you really are a car enthuiast and not an internet COCK stop posting shit on here and go and repair it properly (with new rad etc).

 

i didnt realise it made a blind bit of difference so why would i replace something with urgency when i didnt THINK i needed to? i like to PRIORITISE what i spend my money on, coz i dont have much of it...

 

PMSL, Jim stop being a nob end and take peoples advice instead of throwing it back in there face, your cooling system is easy to bleed, ya rad has a blockage, change the fooking thing then come back if that dont work

What do you mean"so might try that tomorrow (means putting the viscous back on tho ) " please dont tell me ya not running any cooling fans at all.

 

And you state you have the viscous fan disconnected? and your saying it runs hot in traffic? no shit shirlock

 

as many people have also advised before jim....BUY YOURSELF A CAR THAT YOU CAN AFFORD TO RUN AND MAINTAIN PROPERLY

MARK