martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Hi,

Having trouble getting the hub back onto the driveshaft. It is not a sliding fit and I have to use the hub nut to push it home, this wouldn't be an issue but my concern is I have to use a bit of force to do this.

A hub puller is also required to remove it and speaking to a friend he said his slid off.

I replaced the wheel bearing and it was like this prior to replacement.

I have cleaned the splines on both the stub axle and driveshaft to no avail, there is no corrosion.

The bearing I replaced circa 6 months ago, collapsed last week and the wheel seized.

As such there is an underlying reason and don't want to put it back together without knowing the root cause.

It now seems it is even tighter since this time.

Any help would be appreciated please.

Martin

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the front or rear? I think the rear ones are always a bit tight over the splines of the driveshaft.

Albertodelgado

iTrader: (1)

same here if you're talking about the rear..
Even with the splines greased and cleaned they're bit tight and I also used the centernut to pull them trough, needed to do that on a few different Cosworths.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies, I may assemble it and see how I get on.

Yes, it is the rear nearside.

This time I took the hub to a mechanic to press the bearings in and he said it should slide on and I shouldn't have to wind it on with the nut.

A friend has a 3 door and he says his slides on and off.

Having had the previous bearing fail in a short space of time, it's not something I want to occur again and want to eliminate anything untoward.

Martin

Caddyshack

I had mine pressed in.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The first time I done mine by hand with a heavy duty screwdriver and a club hammer

So this time got them pressed, defiantly better and takes all of five minutes.

I suspect the hut nut may have not been tightened enough, having one of these fail though at high speed is not an experience I want to go through again.

Martin

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I had no problems with my rear hubs. They just slid in the bearings fine.

Adam-M

I suspect you damaged the races when you first installed them using a hammer which is easily done, can you remember what torque you tightened the nuts too the first time? Iirc it’s like 260nm

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I’ve built it back up tonight and been for a short drive, I used what circa a 2 foot breaker bar and went as ‘tight’ as I could without going OTT with the car on the ground.

Have not got a torque wrench and if I did I don’t believe there are that many that handle the kind of torque required in this case.

Martin

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

The last part on mine I had to use the nut, I have cleaned the splines with a needle file and there is no corrosion.

I have taken a photo and would post but it’s not like the old times with photobucket.

I chalked it up to the tolerances being minute that some fit and some don’t.

It’s not a job I done before and so have nothing to compare it with.

Martin

Adam-M

I personally wouldn’t risk doing it without knowing how tight you are going, when torqued up the wheel should have some resistance when you try to rotate it in the air

Adam-M

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273862027760

works out not too bad and can be used on your breaker bar

dojj

iTrader: (3)

I used a 500lb/ft torque wrench to do mine up

But yes, they should be tight coming on/off because the bearings are tight on the hub shaft
They normally fall apart when you pull the hub off so you need to replace them
If they are sliding on/off then either the bearings aren't right or you have other issues
The whole point of them sitting right is that there's no movement in the hub

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Wow that tight? Doesn't the manual state like 200lb/ft?

Martin

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, will buy one of them, especially useful as they are multipurpose.

Martin

Adam-M

Puts your mind at ease mate, be interesting to use it to try work out how tight you did them with your breaker bar to see if it’s higher than the torque stated or less

dojj

iTrader: (3)

to undo them i had my dad, all 17 stone of him back in the day, standing on the beam while i was hanging from the bar

i had it upto 300 lb/ft before it started to turn

and i weighed around 170 lbs then so i'm sure someone will do the maths on that

but they are supposed to go right up to from 310 to 350 nm so that's fucking tight as fuck!!!!!

Adam-M

According to my manual it’s 250-290nm so I did mine to 270

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I think it was a little tighter, but have now torque'd it to just over 185 Lb/ft. The range the manual states is between this and 214 Lb/ft.

Previously, I believe it was too loose as I could loosen it with a 2 FT breaker bar with the car in the air.

Kind regards,

Martin

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Originally I was able to undo mine with a breaker bar and now I have torqued it, opposed to guessing. But that does seem tight, I worry about going to tight, or conversely to loose.

Now I'm worried what I quoted is from Haynes, where was yours?

Kind regards,

Martin

Adam-M

You quoted yours in lbft Martin where as I quoted mine in NM. I’ve got the Ford Cosworth workshop manual

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

When you right a thread there are icons at the top of the box you type in. The 12th on along(looks like 2 mountains and the sun lol)click on it and you can post pics this way without photo bucket.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, yes, for some reason thought NM was much, but 260 NM is 191 lb/ft, so it's the range I stated

Kind regards,

Martin

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, despite being a long standing member here, clearly I'm out of touch

Martin