ajamesc

Anyone know wear I can get some 5mm ones from to fit a Sierra

Adam-M

I'd get them from eBay mate, I'd go for the ones that are actually drilled 4x108 rather than the big slotted multi fit ones as it's easier to get them on centre.

ajamesc

I can't find find any on eBay that are the proper hubcentric ones with the lip to support the wheel. I've email loads of sellers and they say they don't do them

cge

Couldn't get 5mm hubcentric spacers when I was looking about 18 months ago.

Chris

2wdsaph ben

5mm one won't be enough to clear the original hub lip enough to make a a new hub lip.

I bough these, best thing I could find
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/321687401899

gcfcos

I just bought some 7mm multi fit ones, looked at them and there's no way I'm fitting them to a 150mph car lol. They sell longer sleeved wheel nuts but not liking the idea of no lip for the wheels to sit on

ajamesc

That's why I'm after hubcentric ones as they have the location ring. I need a spacer to clear my ap's. I got my ap's second hand and there's something funny about them. So have to use the spacer or my rondels catch.

MONSTER

Don't think you can get them less than 10mm mate

ajamesc

Yeah I think your right once it's running I'll get 2 made

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

The spacer needs to be deeper than the protruding existing hub in order to create a second hub on the spacer, thats why they don't exist, as its impossible to make.

ajamesc

Of course it's possible to make I'll get the disc bell hole made larger and a spacer done that sits over the hub that fits through the middle of the disc the wheel side will have the lip that the wheel sits on

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

So how is this wider hub you have made to go over the existing hub then going to fit into the hole in the wheel? or are you machining out the hole is the wheels as well, hell of a faff

The reason hubcentric spacers only exist in 15mm plus is that the first 10mm of the hub hole in the spacer is larger than the existing hub and only once the metal of the spacer is past the original hub can it taper back down to the original hub size.

ajamesc

I've no idea what your picturing lol. It will look like a normal hubcentric spacer but the hub side will have a lip that will sit over the original hub and go through the middle if the disc if I could be arsed I'd draw a diagram. Once the cars driving it will need doing as it can't stay with the cheap halfords spacers so you will see a picture of them made

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

I have had centrelock adapters made to my spec in the past for a sierra, I know what I am talking about, people are trying to help you here, it cannot be done if you plan to keep the original sierra centre bore diameter of your wheels, simple as.

The only way your idea will work is if you had the centre bore of your wheels machined out to take the wider centre of the new hub that you had fabricated.

ajamesc

Very crud drawing but I'll have something like this made if the disc hole that go's over the hub lip is made bigger the spacer can slit in the middle of the disc. My disc bells and the 5mm spacer that's on there now cover the hole hub lip so there's lip to support the wheel

ajamesc

If are lath at work was not so shit I'd make it myself

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

The sierra hub is I believe something like 62mm from memory, as is the hole in your wheel to allow it to slide in

Your idea adds a few mm either side of the hub as a min taking it up to 65 mm plus, a 65mm hub will not go into a 62mm hole how ever hard you push!

ajamesc

As I say my discs are funny the bell almost covers the hole hub lip the drawing is very crud it's obvious the lip that sits inside the wheel will have to be the same size as the wheel. As there's very little original hub lip there this should not be an issue. If I can't buy something that will work give it till end of summer ish and I'll post a picture of what's been made

Adam-M

From reading what Paul's saying I agree it will be abit more involved that what your picturing mate. Your saying your 5mm spacer will have its own lip for the wheel to sit on but will be bigger in diameter so you'll have to machine your disc but as its bigger in dia it will also be too big for your wheels.

What part of the disc is fouling your wheels? Can't it be ground and repainted?

STeve

iTrader: (11)

ajamesc

The caliper hits the wheel that's why the wheels are spaced out buy 5mm. The disc where made for something odd so I was told after I bought them the spacer was a temporary thing that will be delt with before its back on the road

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

The only option would to machine the existing protruding hub face back until it is flush with the face of the disc then have a spacer made with an integral hub the same as the standard hole width, and bored out to clear the big nut holding it all on, but then the spacer itself would not be hubcentric as its relying only on the 4 bolts to hold it in place.

Hammer to crack a nut as well.

If it could be done, they would be on the market, the reason they are not is because it cannot be done.

The centrelock wheel adapters out there for Fords are seriously flawed in their design due to the same problem, it is scary how much little alloy is left on the adapter when the centre is bored out to clear the hub when you look at them in profile, my design resolved the problem but it involved machining back the hubs.

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

If its the caliper that is the issue then that need to be moved inwards on its mountings and the disc moved back in on the bell by the same amount to compensate, A far simpler solution.

ajamesc

it will get sorted wish I never asked now

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

So you need the correct bells and calliper brackets?

ajamesc

20mm will stick out a little to far lol I'm not changing the brakes they have been on the car for 2 years now I'll sort the problem no worries

STeve

iTrader: (11)

you have been here long enough to know you cant offer stuff for sale without gold membership

scoooby slayer

iTrader: (4)

Have I missed something? He hasn't offered anything for sale has he? He's just simply said he needs the correct bells and brackets

mk2 escort boy

iTrader: (1)

Can't you get the wheels machined for clearance ? Or is that a no no

I had a similar problem when I ran a set of tarox brakes in the end I sold them went for APs still had th issue so a mate made me some new bells and caliper mount I went round the houses big time wish I'd bought a new set of wheels tbh

ajamesc

I've two options there's about 2-3 MM. of hub lip remaining I checked yesterday after fitting my new lower arms and stuff. It will iver have spacers made as I said as it will be possible with such a small amount of hub lip there. Or as my wheels have a removable spigot ring as such I'll get the spigot ring made to fit the wheel spacer as there's a thread on here where a guy has a set of 5mm spacers with a centralising lip that he got from a company called jjc race and rally. I've emailed them to see if they can still supply them. Iver way it will get done

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

Actually i did
Post edited and fair enough.

Sorry sir!

markk

iTrader: (2)

Here is the problem, inner bell face needs machining back, bells are too thick.
If your on radial mount calipers you might be able to redrill the brackets.

I agree on the other comments, you cannot have hub centered without the material in the first place.

I make all my own bells and caliper brackets btw.

ajamesc

Mk can sort it problem is over new bells will be made with the spacer built into them and wheel centralising lip. A new spigot ring in the wheel will be made to go with the bells.

botters

iTrader: (2)

lots of vehicles out there that only have the wheelstuds for support and no centre flange going into the wheel, mainly see it on big vans and commercials plus often when you get adapter rings with some wheels they are only plastic anyway so cant be bearing any load

Adam-M

Keep us posted with the end results then

ajamesc

Its been like it for about 3 years lol and seen plenty of off the clock action without issue. But to me it's not really safe and is an issue its always been on my to do list. As I'm pretty much re doing most of the car at the moment I'm going to sort it. I work on commercials and see lots of snapped wheel studs. The weight of the vehicle shouldn't really be on the wheel studs there should be a location ring

PAUL S

iTrader: (8)

If the wheels need a spigot ring then they are not Ford fitment, which is in your favour for an easier solution along the lines you were thinking of.

Whatever way you try, if you had ford spec centrebores on your wheels then hubcentric spacer of less than 15mm cannot be done.

The fact you have now clarified your wheels don't means you have some excess width on your existing hub to play with.

All you need to do is sleeve with steel tube your existing hub to the same diameter as the larger than Ford spec hole in your wheels.

Simply also have the ford hub holes in the bell and existing spacers machined out to the same diameter so the sleeve can slide through them as well, they will also hold it in place

The sleeve would need to be 8mm longer than the distance from the hub back face to the existing end, in order to give you 10mm of a centralising bore, Job done.

Far cheaper than the route you have come up with via MK and no need for spigot rings either then.

All the centralising bore does is correctly line up the wheel in order for the bolts to be secured correctly, once they are torqued up its then done its job, the wheel does not rely on it for strength.