jb weld test of submersed strength/sealing
#41
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did neigh work - heli coil keeps popping out - look like head has to come off as local engineers wont work on car.....anyone know anyone in North London that can do this? be waste to spend money on head gasket etc for a recently built engine just one freakin 8mm thread on top lol - I
#42
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im needing something similar - i have done many drill, tap and threads but on this occasion was to pissed / s****d so i went wonky, on a zetec rocker cover bolt , only gone as big as 9mm , before i removed head am about to try the old jb weld steel stuff you nead in ..my question is will it be strong / stable enough to drill / tap after one hour? shall i just let engineers do it prop = yep lol just answered my own question ha ha
Of coarse it won't be after 1 hour, it needs to be 100% clean and dry filled with jb weld and left for 24 hours to harden
Then try you drilling and tapping, make sure drill is right size
#44
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On a rocker cover bolt it should sort it easily, reads like he's drilled on the piss and took to much metal away, so filling with jb weld and redrilling straight
I've made thread with it before and its been fine, but I always leave 24 hours before touching irrelevant to what timescale paperwork says
#45
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Those Timesert things require a bigger hole than a helicoil. Although Even if one fastener had to be larger...I'd sooner do that than rely on an epoxy. Even small threads can bare a lot of force, especially when some people are often a little over eager when tightening things.
If I was solely relying on an epoxy type bond, I'd be bonding a threaded stud in instead. Rather than trying to tap it.
If I was solely relying on an epoxy type bond, I'd be bonding a threaded stud in instead. Rather than trying to tap it.
#46
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Those Timesert things require a bigger hole than a helicoil. Although Even if one fastener had to be larger...I'd sooner do that than rely on an epoxy. Even small threads can bare a lot of force, especially when some people are often a little over eager when tightening things.
If I was solely relying on an epoxy type bond, I'd be bonding a threaded stud in instead. Rather than trying to tap it.
If I was solely relying on an epoxy type bond, I'd be bonding a threaded stud in instead. Rather than trying to tap it.
Now that is another good idea, I have a clutch adjuster I need to repair in a dozer
Very difficult access and I do have about 1 thread at the bottom, can screw a stud in and nip it still lightly, I shall cover in JB weld and screw in and let set, then just nut on stud instead of bolt
Don't know why I didn't think of that before it's run over a year with a dodgy adjuster
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#48
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Already done the finisher tap on last repair I got enough to get a stud to hold on, just, but it's now slipped again sat awaiting repair
Its a 1967 machine so she's doing well lol
#49
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Are the forces pushing on the threads, or pulling ?
If pulling, I'd doubt any epoxy is really doing to sort it if there is only 1 or two threads actually holding.
Can you not just tap it out to a larger size and screw a stud in ?
If pulling, I'd doubt any epoxy is really doing to sort it if there is only 1 or two threads actually holding.
Can you not just tap it out to a larger size and screw a stud in ?
#50
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am using the puty stuff you knead together then turns to metal - yeah got it bang on this time but too soft. ill give it one last try and let it dry 24hrs - if that doesnt work plenty of metal there to go 10mm and just smash a dowel in , weld it , grind down then drill out the metal but that means head off to engineers
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#51
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gonna try the above - Laser 4707 Aluminium Repair Kit looks pretty good ..even does thread repair...shall I do it as per video and melt aluminium and shove a bolt in and undo it to create thread OR fill it up with aluminium then drill and tap ?
Last edited by t230; 13-01-2020 at 07:03 AM.
#54
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it prob wont work lol = anyway excuse to do a head stud conversion , uprated exhaust cam and fit original black cover if i get one....anyway Machine mart were out of stock so its ordered for Wednesday - says you can use a blow torch ???
#55
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Ok so that did not work lol..waskidding myself trying anyways...does anyone know a good engineer who can sort this for me in and around London area what would come here and sort it without taking head off ie is good with re threads /inserts/ timeserts etc? cheers or i can go there...
#58
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you'll need to do a bolt repair. It's basically like a big helicoil. try calling S A Precision Engineering, he's a bit north of London in Matching Essex but i know he does some on-site thread repairs. Just don't expect it to be cheap, you've probably cost yourself more by messing around with it and making it harder than it should be. If someone has to come to you to fix it, you'll probably be paying an hourly rate including travel there and back. I do this sort of work in cambridgeshire/norfolk/suffolk/herts area all the time. the job is always 10x worse when someone's already had a go.
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t230 (01-02-2020)
#59
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yeah ..i apologise to all engineers lol i am my worst enemy lol - done loads - first one i fucked - yeah local engineers saying £120 call out + !! went down to Pro Race Engineering today to pick up my mates 1.8t engine from them (vag community) and im supposed to send a pic later and he will give me an idea if he can do it or not....ill give your guy at SA a shout too - ill leave it till Monday - i will drive anywhere within reason as long as the head dont have to come off -
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