jb weld test of submersed strength/sealing
05-10-2014, 04:06 PM
#1
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jb weld test of submersed strength/sealing
well I have a bad casting/rust damaged block and ive used jb weld to try and repair it.
the engine suffered massive water leakage into the sump, so we stripped it and found the motor is fine it just has a small hole in the bottom of the water gallery right down at the bottom of the block.
once the whole area had been cleaned thoroughly we were left withg a 3mm hole from underneath the block, and from above down the side of the bore we had a hole approximately 15mm2
a piece of the block casting has come away I suspect due to a pourous area from new.
so we have attempted this, first off I mixed up 200g of jb weld and poured it in from the top its thin enough so it will flow slowly so we made a dam in the bottom of the block so weve ended up with a layer about 15mm thick of jb weld above the pourous area
we then packed down the jb weld from above like temping concrete, the jb weld was coming out of the hole in the bottom so we then screwed in a 4mm self taper screw from underneath
how will this turn out I don't know but im hopeful that the jbweld will in effect weld the self tap screw to the block sealing it for a good while, I hope lol.
I shall update this once its running and holding or not holding coolant, I thought it would be a good test for the stuff being under 10 pounds of pressure at 90c water temps so id document it for all to see.
the engine suffered massive water leakage into the sump, so we stripped it and found the motor is fine it just has a small hole in the bottom of the water gallery right down at the bottom of the block.
once the whole area had been cleaned thoroughly we were left withg a 3mm hole from underneath the block, and from above down the side of the bore we had a hole approximately 15mm2
a piece of the block casting has come away I suspect due to a pourous area from new.
so we have attempted this, first off I mixed up 200g of jb weld and poured it in from the top its thin enough so it will flow slowly so we made a dam in the bottom of the block so weve ended up with a layer about 15mm thick of jb weld above the pourous area
we then packed down the jb weld from above like temping concrete, the jb weld was coming out of the hole in the bottom so we then screwed in a 4mm self taper screw from underneath
how will this turn out I don't know but im hopeful that the jbweld will in effect weld the self tap screw to the block sealing it for a good while, I hope lol.
I shall update this once its running and holding or not holding coolant, I thought it would be a good test for the stuff being under 10 pounds of pressure at 90c water temps so id document it for all to see.
Last edited by scoooby slayer; 05-10-2014 at 04:08 PM.
06-10-2014, 11:16 AM
#4
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Why wouldnt you do a normal weld on the block?
06-10-2014, 02:14 PM
#5
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because all my machines are flat out and I need this one out on hire aswell, to weld the block the motor will need to be removed and stripped to a bare block which is a lot of work/time that I don't have right now, also once stripped to a bare block and completely rebuilt I don't think id want to use this block anyway as its a bad casting and could fail again.
it will be getting water in the gallery tmrw if it doesn't leak/weap at all then we will commence with reringing and rebuilding tmrw.
06-10-2014, 02:16 PM
#6
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lol I do plan on running the coolant pressure a little lower
i thought its a good test of it as its being used as a weld to weld and seal the screw to the block, its supposed to be resistant upto 500f so 220f should be a brease for it in theory..........
06-10-2014, 02:35 PM
#7
Ive no doubt it will work.
the question is, how long will it last ?
You have a few things in your favour. It's location, the small hole and the fact you can totally submerge it with the JB Weld. So it should last a good while.
the question is, how long will it last ?
You have a few things in your favour. It's location, the small hole and the fact you can totally submerge it with the JB Weld. So it should last a good while.
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06-10-2014, 02:41 PM
#8
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and potentially wil loose the whole hire if I don't soon get it back out which is a few months work
fingers crossed
06-10-2014, 05:26 PM
#10
cossie fan (unluckerly)
I repaired a small crack on the bottom of the pumping unit housings on the block of a Daf upec engine about 6 years ago! It was leaking oil I did it with chemical metal it's still like it as far as I know lol. Ive used it a fair few times now
11-10-2014, 05:31 PM
#11
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well shes all up and running, done about 3 hours running it and so far its perfect, its off back to site for work Monday morning fingers crossed it holds permanently ........
11-10-2014, 05:47 PM
#13
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I did consider it lol
there is a trick to using radweld to achieve a lasting repair though ime, once the leak has started remove redcap with warm motor and pour in radweld, leaving radcap off I run the motor for 20+ minutes with no pressure behind the leak, it seams to let the stuff find the leak and block it up better without pressure behind it.
when its just been poured in and radcap put back straight away they've either not sealed or sealed and not lasted very long
since using radweld this way ive had no repeat failures so far touch wood.
I have 3 big cats with radweld in, the rad cores are Ł3000 each so you can imagine if they can be salvaged they need to be lol
I don't like using the stuff as it must gunk the coolant circuit up but needs must, once the machines are stood up for winter I will remove the rad and braze the leaking core flute.
weve just serviced a set of 7 rad cores from a d6h they are Ł4400 new I thought fook that lol
we thoroughly cleaned them and straightened all bent fins by hand, refitted them and shes out at work holding 70 - 80c water temps, it was hitting 110c when it came in for repair
there is a trick to using radweld to achieve a lasting repair though ime, once the leak has started remove redcap with warm motor and pour in radweld, leaving radcap off I run the motor for 20+ minutes with no pressure behind the leak, it seams to let the stuff find the leak and block it up better without pressure behind it.
when its just been poured in and radcap put back straight away they've either not sealed or sealed and not lasted very long
since using radweld this way ive had no repeat failures so far touch wood.
I have 3 big cats with radweld in, the rad cores are Ł3000 each so you can imagine if they can be salvaged they need to be lol
I don't like using the stuff as it must gunk the coolant circuit up but needs must, once the machines are stood up for winter I will remove the rad and braze the leaking core flute.
weve just serviced a set of 7 rad cores from a d6h they are Ł4400 new
I thought fook that lolwe thoroughly cleaned them and straightened all bent fins by hand, refitted them and shes out at work holding 70 - 80c water temps, it was hitting 110c when it came in for repair
08-04-2015, 08:37 PM
#15
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Just thought I'd update this, the jbweld repaired engine has now done over 500 hours and is still perfect and hasn't used a drop of water, it's proved reliable enough I shall now just run it to failure 😃
08-04-2015, 08:48 PM
#16
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Blimey, that is impressive!
09-04-2015, 07:50 PM
#21
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I'm well chuffed It's lasted so long and is still working perfectly, the motor was using a little water for a long time before it proper failed I'm talking years! cracking stuff I will happily use jb weld again for similar quick fixes 😀
11-04-2015, 03:44 AM
#22
I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
I had faith in this holding up , the guy from ppc mag with the 26 litre meteor powered sd1 , when he got that engine the bores were porus as water had got in during storage , he cleaned them up and used jb weld then honed the bores with a simple honing tool and to this day hasn't missed a beat , amazing stuff
10-09-2016, 08:43 PM
#27
PassionFord Post Troll
That's good going, where did you get it from?
13-09-2016, 09:16 PM
#31
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Any car factor should have it, I used standard in weld takes a few hours to set not sure if the quick dry would be as good, I've also used it for temporary hydraulic ram rod repairs and works a treat in dents and deep grooves
Plenty of experts told me they didn't think it would hold but it has, he who dares wins Rodney lmao
Plenty of experts told me they didn't think it would hold but it has, he who dares wins Rodney lmao
Last edited by scoooby slayer; 13-09-2016 at 09:18 PM.
07-01-2020, 05:12 PM
#33
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Thought I'd better update this, motor has done over 4000 hours now since repair and still uses no water
Just for reference to put it in car terms if you assume 40 mph average speed that's 160000 miles of use
Just for reference to put it in car terms if you assume 40 mph average speed that's 160000 miles of use
07-01-2020, 05:22 PM
#35
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It's worked a treat in there so far
Sump repair on a van, it's bloody brilliant stuff pal
07-01-2020, 05:35 PM
#36
burnzy
Ive repaired a sump with it.
got the engine out the van in the dark and put it on a dolly, got it ready, bolted the trans on and started putting it in the car, get underneath it to see a shoddy repair with JB weld, was gutted as the engine I took out the sump was fine but now the trans was on and it was inside the engine bay I couldnt be arsed to unbolt the lot again so took the old repair off, prepped the surface properly and repaired it from the outside, been fine, sold the car to a mate and its still going strong.
would do it again If I had to.
got the engine out the van in the dark and put it on a dolly, got it ready, bolted the trans on and started putting it in the car, get underneath it to see a shoddy repair with JB weld, was gutted as the engine I took out the sump was fine
but now the trans was on and it was inside the engine bay I couldnt be arsed to unbolt the lot again so took the old repair off, prepped the surface properly and repaired it from the outside, been fine, sold the car to a mate and its still going strong.would do it again If I had to.
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scoooby slayer (08-01-2020)
08-01-2020, 10:08 PM
#37
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
I was thinking about this the other day, i remember the original thread and wondered how it was going. So thanks for sharing the results
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scoooby slayer (08-01-2020)
11-01-2020, 08:40 PM
#40
PassionFord Regular
im needing something similar - i have done many drill, tap and threads but on this occasion was to pissed / s****d so i went wonky, on a zetec rocker cover bolt , only gone as big as 9mm , before i removed head am about to try the old jb weld steel stuff you nead in ..my question is will it be strong / stable enough to drill / tap after one hour? shall i just let engineers do it prop = yep lol just answered my own question ha ha