I would not say ignore the fuel pump as that sounds like its the current issue,

No priming pulse / no fuel = not starts so, I would start looking at why its not getting power,

No power at the pump side and no power to relay

So 1st check the pump out put on the ecu to relay continuity, then if the continuity isn't there find why the ecu isnt powering it on ie no power to ecu

With 12v at the injectors (if tested with multimeter) then my bets at the cable is shorted or disconnected

 

Of course he should ignore the pump, he has already said the pump works on manual activation.

Do the tests exactly as I stated.

 

Sorry I believe we are talking about the same thing,

I meant focus should be on energising the fuel pump,

Crank and cam sensors should have no effect on the priming pulse here,

I completely agree on checking the ecu output to the fuel pump as the next step

 

Thanks guys.
Stevie 'When you test with a meter between 12v and fuel pump output, does anything register on your meter when you key on ?'

Do you mean test across pins 4 and 6 on the ecu?

Also, why would I have no spark even if I have no fuel pump? Surely I should still be getting a spark?

I will test fuel pump output as soon as I am back tonight.

thanks

 

If Pin 6 is a known permanent 12v then yes you can use it.

no spark, no fuel pump = ecu dead

You will only get spark if the ecu is live and sees and recognises the crank/cam signals

 

Well it seems my worst fears have been confirmed by Ahmed Bayjoo who has been very helpful earlier today.
I sent him some pictures of the ECU and a suspect area that I had noticed around the internal battery area, but hoped was nothing... He says the internal battery has burst and knackered some parts of the board. melted tracks etc. Meaning the ECU CPU is not working and hence why all areas are dead
its a scrapper he said. Unrepairable.
This is an early T2 and he reckons he has only ever had them fail when the battery leaks onto the board like this one. Then Pectel changed the battery to one that couldnt leak...As standard course with this ECu he would have changed the battery for a Li Ion one or something which he said cant leak.

I'm gutted!! I need to find a used T2 now or pay Ł1000 for a new one. On the plus side he rates them very highly.!

I will be testing the pump volts in a bit just to confirm to me this is definitely the issue!!!

 

So this leaves me with a quandry. Do I spend the money on a T2, keep my existing engine loom and plug and play the new engine and get it mapped by ahmed (he will supply a base map). Or do I go all out and go for a different standalone? I like the look of the Megasquirt 3...!! and its cheap. But would mean hacking the loom up.. hmm
Or theres the AEM was the other I considered.

 

Depends on how quick you want the car running because t2 ecus come up for sale every now and then and normal sell for 300ish. Have a look on motorsport websites

 

Any links mate?!!!

I remember seeing Martin Hadland sold them?

Are there any suppliers recommended who can sell me one, cheapish!!

or is anyone on here seeing a working T2?

ack

 

Any links mate?!!!

I remember seeing Martin Hadland sold them?

Are there any suppliers recommended who can sell me one, cheapish!!

or is anyone on here selling a working T2?

ack

 

Did ahmed say if he had any second hand ones? .they come up on racecardirect.com inthe forsale section every sometimes. Try gineta forums because the g20 race series use them aswell and the formula ford series used them aswell

 

He is looking into it for me mate. But if I can source one myself Im going to
thanks for the link

 

Its a old advert but might be worth a try.they might have more than one because it looks like a company selling it

http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listin...el_t2_ecu.html

 

Thanks mate! Just phoned him 2 mins before you posted that up! Friendly chap, sadly he has 'just' sold it to someone else. and he did have two of them
gutted!!
The search goes on. But some people are wanting silly money for what in essence is an old ECU!

 

That's a shame yeh I've seen them go for over 600 for second had ones. I will keep an eye out for one and let you know if i find any

 

http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listin..._ford_ecu.html

 

Its sold as well!

Might be an omen to get a new ECU and redo the engine loom. It might be my only option because I sure as hell am not paying nearly a grand for a replacment T2!

having said that, Im going to keep looking for T2s as I dont want to take the car off road until the end of 'summer'!

 

have a look at boost monkeys ofam if you want to go stand alone!

I was thinking about this at one point!

 

Really, if the loom is fine, all you would need to do is replace the ecu connector to install a new ecu.

Looking at the T2 outputs etc, it is a very basic ecu anyway, so there would be loads of budget options you could go for.
And unless you have the map that was in your ecu saved to disk, you're going to be starting from scratch anyway


But just to confirm...this damage is actually just a coincidence and nothing to do with the alternator problems etc ?

 

the battery leaks and fucks the board , so pectel fitted the later ones with a lithium battery. ive heard this a few times before . talk to ian howell about a pectel unit i think they are Ł650 new if not contact cosworth as i think they purchased pectel afew years ago.

cheers paul

 

That's a bit shit !!!

 

the loom is fine mate. Ive just tested the rest of it now. There is sweet fa happening on cranking it over.... my ECU is scrap..!

Unsure if it was to do with overcharging... but am going to redo the questionable bits of the car loom and will redo the alternator wiring to be certain. I'm also going to remove the current alarm, put it back to stock and then start over I think with a Clifford again!!!

I've been thinking about my options. If I was getting a new ECU, I would probably get something halfway decent so I dont have to change it again in the future with the new engine and bigger turbo etc. (might need more outputs than the 2 or 3 the t2 has)
The downside is mapping will cost Ł450 for a custom map (ish) and I would have to get it re-remapped when the new engine is done as well :/
My other option is to get it running myself with a conservative base map, then get it mapped professionally on a dyno with the new engine in.


So if I can get another T2, cheap, I can swap my eprom from this one to that and it should work. Alternatively, Ahmed can use my eprom and flash the map onto a newer ecu if I get one that doesnt have a removable chip (mine does).

So it comes down to if I can get a T2 for a sensible cost!!!

cheers zetaboostboy, . Area six never usually answer the phone when I have rung in the past..!!Ahmed can supply a brand new T2 as well if needed, but I would rather get a new/different ECU for sure I think. Even if it means I cant drive the car for a bit while I sort it .


As un update to this///

Cosworth (totally shite customer service) who must have bought Pectel, Say the T2 is obselete. No parts available. No units available. So I'm not sure how Ahmed can get new ones..!! lol

 

The first bit of (hopefully) good news this month!!
I've managed to get hold of a mint condition newer Pectel T2 from a formula ford
guru. It was an epic job trying to get one but if it saves me doing the new loom until my new engines ready to go in I will be a happy man.

Got to send it off tomorrow to get it flashed and unlocked and will update this thread when I get it back...!!

 

Hope it works out mate,put an inline fuse to the new ecu or run it through a relay so you never blow it doing something silly/by accident.

 

Cheers mate. Good plan..!!!On the 12v supply to the ECU ? Is a 25 amp fuse suitable guys?
cheers

// Im waiting to hear in the next couple of days if my ECU took out the chip in my original Pectel....
If it did I am majorly sh*t out of luck because it will need fully mapping again.
If that is the case the car is coming off the road and I am going to finish the new engine and redo a load of stuff and then get it mapped.
It will be a major nightmare though at the minute!

 

Fuse depends on the electrical loads on it and wiring.

For such a basic ecu, 25A sounds quite big

 

Yes, agreed mate. I have no idea of the electrical loads on it but there are no high current components in it as far as I am aware? maybe a 5 or 10 amp fuse would be better?!!

 

What do Pectel suggest ?

Or try measuring how much current it actually uses when the engine is running. It will give you a bit of an idea.

But all the ecu really does is switch things off and on. It wouldnt really be handling any high current directly from that power supply.

 

Pectel don't suggest anything as the t2 is obselete as is pectel sadly. Cosworth were about as helpful as a chocolate fire guard! I will do some ringing around and see what info I can get . Will update when I find out if I'm in the muck or not!

 

Well, Ahmed Bayjoo has confirmed his legendary status and sorted me out fully with this one!
The old ECU was dead but he has removed the chip from it and read the map from it and he has now unlocked and flashed my new T2 and remapped it with my map!!!
Going to put the car back together on the weekend if I have the ECU back by then, so will update...

He has also given me some info on the fuse requirements of the ECU which I will post up for anyone else with a T2 when I get chance

 

Another update.... New ECU fitted.
No different!!!!

Meaning Im not 100% sure it was ever the ECU.
I am moving attention to the alarm system now, as that has to be the culprit.

Its a Hornet maxx1, quite a decent Clifford cat 1 alarm. I have managed to get what I think is a wiring diagram for it and am going to remove it completely and start from there.

Will be majorly gutted if the ecu was never the problem!! (although the battery had leaked and a track was dead which I fixed!

Just need some time now...lol