I know there is a simular problem allready posted on here but not quite the same as mine (the other one on here has allready tried to get the bolt out)

What is the best way to get a snapped bolt out of the head ?

no one has attempted to get the bolt out yet so how do i do it with the head still on the car?

cheers

 

Best to take the head off as you'll find it almost impossible to drill the stud out with the head still attached

 

as i found out.

 

anyone tried these

http://www.crustyquinns.com/tech/easyout.html

are they anygood?

 

Heads are a bit expensive .. If you mess the job up, aint they?
My advice is to get the head off .. and get it to an engineering company that's used to this sort of work. The head and tooling need to be kept perfectly aligned .. if you are to succeed. I have done a few by hand, but others I wished I had done "professionally" If the end of the bolt is domed, and bottoming out .. you may be OK drilling the core. If threads seized or cold-welded together, you may be looking at a helicoil repair. Nowt wrong with these, if they are done properly.
I have mixed opinions about thread removers ... The tapered ones usually taper the nice hole you just drilled, then expand the shell, totally buggering the whole lot up! Used to use a hardened straight-fluted set, and special removal nuts to suit. These are better, as they dont expand the shell .. but end up slipping or twisting if the shell is really jammed in.
Thats my experience!

Regards ....

 

Easiest way is a MIG welder and an old wheel nut

Place the wheelnut over the broken stud and mig weld through it joining the two, the heat loosens the seized stud and the wheel nut gives you something to get a spanner on.

Mark

 

Gaz "Easy outs" work if the stud isn,t mega tight in the thread
Head off job is best bet mate

 

..... which is what I do ... IF the bugger is sticking out ... even done this on a knackered wheel locking nut!

P.S. Mark .. I need some info on 2000 16v > 2300 galaxy bottom end. ICU have one! Can U spare some info?

Cheers all ...

 

Thing is car is worth fook all , start taking heads off and taking it to a engineering place, new gasket , etc etc, the work is gonna be more than the car is worth

 

I have plenty of info but have sold the car
What do you need to know?

Mark

 

Thought you liked the Mk2 Gaz saying it,s worth fooookall is a bit harsh

 

shitheaps worth nowt mate

 

Mind you just been checking how much the plate is worth on the crapi , happy with the findings

 

Yes they sell these under different brand names, but they do work. Sears here sells them in different sizes for such occurances. Basically you drill this special bit into the bolt then wrench out the bit including the offending broken piece.

 

how much of the bolt is left in there if you take the head off there maybe enough room to get some mole grips on the bolt if not though you will have to dill it and use a thread extactor that you have metioned above as the twisty section of the extactor tightens into the hole while it is working agaist the thread to pull it out.

 

I have a draper (i think) stud extractor kit, which is perfect and made for the job, I only bought it cos I snapped a head bolt in my old s2, head off and job is a goodun, came out first time no problem, this was about 2 years ago, fuck knows where the kit is now

 

Mark ... Yes ... Have an RS 2000 16v to fit in my Mk4 van ; ) and gearbox.

I'm looking for the info on ..

1. Balance shafts .. Leave in or can take out, also saving weight.
2. Waterway has to be blanked off when fitting block.
3. Huge C.R. rise to around 12.5:1 .. I can use 11:1 no probs, as using LPG (gas) and that likes up to 12.5 as its around 110 octane : )
4. Any other probs you had!

Maybe you can PM me : ) or I'll start a new thread!
Cheers!

 

https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...450594#1450594



Mark

 

Thanks mate ...

Something's makin me blind ... Must be age and .. err something else : )

Cheers again ...