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What's the thickest cosworth front Anti Roll Bar

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Old 18-10-2010, 04:45 PM
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Mr C
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Default What's the thickest cosworth front Anti Roll Bar

What's the thickest front ARB for a cosworth, which model is it from, ESCOS, sapphire 4x4 or? And who has one for sale, how much are they?
Old 18-10-2010, 05:14 PM
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ECOS95
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Escort Cos. 28mm from memory.
Old 18-10-2010, 07:07 PM
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the granada 24V one is 29.3mm thick, but it's for the 2wd cars only as it upsets the geometry of the 4wd cars
Old 18-10-2010, 07:20 PM
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Not sure if you mean standard or not i got this from dewitts escos wrc
not cheap though
1 x arb…….cost £285
2 x blade @ 90….cost £180
2 x nylon bush @ 10….cost £20
2 x bracket @ 22…….cost £44
2 x drop link @ 20…..cost £40
2 x bearing kit @ 65…cost £130
ARB front overall length is 86.5cm
ARB rear overall length is 102 cm
Diameter of front and rear is 32mm
Blade overall length is 24.2mm
Old 18-10-2010, 07:24 PM
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Mark Shead
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Originally Posted by Mr C
What's the thickest front ARB for a cosworth, which model is it from, ESCOS, sapphire 4x4 or? And who has one for sale, how much are they?
Why do you want a thicker front bar.

Mark
Old 18-10-2010, 07:25 PM
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105epwr
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For the rear its the esc cos 22mm arb good upgrade for a 2wd or 4x4 sapp
Old 18-10-2010, 09:55 PM
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Mark- I'm going to have more steering lock and wider front track and am wondering what's best to make the front work. it's looking like I need to fit compression struts with a modified TCA mounting point, but will I still need to link the two sides with an anti roll bar? Ive got the option of a Zoo front ARB or modified cosworth items. I've got Avo coilovers and its a caged sapphire for track

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Old 18-10-2010, 10:04 PM
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I don't want to go too stiff but at the same time without an anti roll bar how will that drive? It doesn't look right but am open to suggestions and advice. so open to anybodies experience/advice.
How will the car drive/ handle and am I best sticking to a 2wd item to mod?
Old 18-10-2010, 10:05 PM
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Chip
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Personally I hate road cars with no ARB, but you'll find people on here who love them on compression struts with just the springs providing all the roll resistance, fuck knows why!
Old 18-10-2010, 10:12 PM
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Is there a benefit to fitting a Saph Front ARB over a 3 Door one, does it make the front end less twitchy? More Castor?
Cheers Rich
Old 18-10-2010, 10:19 PM
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Ok no ARB doesn't look right but am going to have to try it, the rear has no ARB and grips well to be fair, not really too much body roll, certainly not enough to worry me on the road but it needed something while at Pod drifting. Maybe try no front but an Escos rear to show one extreme, no ARBs front and rear and then try various ways of linking the front wider track up with different thicknesses?
Old 18-10-2010, 10:28 PM
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What castor angle difference is there between 3dr and 2wd sapphire exactly? I'm still going to have adjustment in the modified compression strut based on a 2wd hub and front ARB set up. Ive been told to use 3rd hubs for better angles? But again nobody can tell me exactly how it will feel, handle, what will change etc etc Also what physical TCA, TRE, shock/ hub mounting points, -ve camber etc changes there are between the two?
Old 19-10-2010, 07:28 PM
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tabetha
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Originally Posted by Sonic Boom
Is there a benefit to fitting a Saph Front ARB over a 3 Door one, does it make the front end less twitchy? More Castor?
Cheers Rich
3 door hubs use a castle nut on the end of the track control carm joint that pokes through the hole in the hub, the 2wd sapphy type use a pinch bolt in the hub to grip the joint part that pokes into the hub.
The original 3 door came with a front arb that some(magazine) testers reported as being so lacking in castor it made the car feel wandery and twitchy, but it turned in a LOT better than the sapphy bar, the 3 doors were at owners request fitted with a replacement front arb which was later used as std fitment on all the 2wd sapphy.
There is a marked difference in the hubs also on 2wd and 3 door, the 3 door has better bump steer characteristics, and when combined with the original, and best imo front arbs made a far better front end gripping car.
The original bars were designated H13, the later replaced under warranty bars were H14.
I've used all combinations on the same car and prefer the original 3 door hubs and arb, but on a bumpy road if not concentrating can be all over the place without much warning, can't relax like in a sapphy when driving.
The rear arb on the 3 door was a joke imo, really couldn't notice much difference whether it was there or not, hence why I converted my other sierras to sapphy arb on rear.
I would have thought if drifting you would make the rear a lot stiffer ?, I totally agree with chip about road cars without from arb and using comp struts only, I never would.
I can put you onto a man who could make you a one off arb to your spec, adjustable if wanted to fit perfectly with your comp struts, have seen two where the arb went forwards not back from the comp struts and worked perfect.
tanetha

Last edited by tabetha; 19-10-2010 at 07:33 PM.
Old 19-10-2010, 07:59 PM
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In a straight line it's all over the place, start chucking it around and it feels nice and stable. I don't want to lose the chuckablity but it would be nice if it felt better in a straight line plus it very twitchy when braking hard.
Rich
Old 20-10-2010, 08:41 AM
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tabetha
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Twitchy under braking and all over the place, I'd check basics like tracking first, I used to run1mm toe in, the lack of castor will make the car have a mind of it's own as to where it wants to go and will be a lot more influenced by road surfaces, make of tyres can make this a LOT LOT worse, so experiment with tyre pressures as well, it shouldn't be a like a wild animal, instability under braking can be improved by fitment of a front strut brace if not already got one ?
The 3 door shell has more wobble than jelly, using a triangulated rear strut brace will help matters even at the front, don't go mentally stiff on the front otherwise the front inner wings can start cracking about 10" back from the headlight shell.
The sapphy set up is much more friendly and not terrible grip wise most find it totally ok, may be worth seeing if you can borrow a arb to try, but I suspect you may get enough improvement from tyre pressures/tracking, oddly enough the very very sloppy rear end if sorted will make the front(whole car) a lot better as well, poly diff mount first.
tabetha
Old 20-10-2010, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sonic Boom
In a straight line it's all over the place, start chucking it around and it feels nice and stable. I don't want to lose the chuckablity but it would be nice if it felt better in a straight line plus it very twitchy when braking hard.
Rich
You tracking is out or you have play in something if its that bad.
Old 20-10-2010, 10:06 AM
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Just had the tracking done, the whole car is poly bushed, front strut brace fitted, standard rubber diff mount and rubbish 3 door rear arb.
It's got Yoko A520 215/40/17 on the front although they have plenty of tread they are getting on age wise. Brand new Hankook 245/35/17 V12 Evo's on the rear.
Rich
Old 20-10-2010, 12:13 PM
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The hankooks are good aren't they!!
About to order 4 for me new wheels myself, standard diff mount, surely suicide would be easier than using one of them ?, sort out what is known to be bad ie the diff mount, as it will have a knock on effect on the car as a whole, I'd try some different tyres on the front, they do go off, and play about with the pressures.
What et you running on rear and what width rims, did you need any mods to get 245 on there ?
tabetha
Old 20-10-2010, 03:28 PM
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Ye the Hankooks are really good very grippy, the wheels are 8 x 17 all round ET33 up front and ET23 on the rear, took a plama cutter to the rear arches and cut the lip off completely, looks very tidy though and trimmed the plastic arches right back.
Rich
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