What sort of money should i expect to pay to have this done?

And who should do it?

Cheers

 

reyland do a nice set of studs which uses a standard socket to install

i think reyland charges around £70 a stud supplied and fitted (pretty sure he uses a machine shop to do the machining to the block)

ps. you'll need a 200 block

 

i had it done so long ago i can't really remember but think it was about 350 at a1 rallysport bout 3 years ago...

 

Yeah i have a 200 block.

£70 a stud? How many studs lol?

 

6 or 8

 

mine has the middle 6 done so thats £420

 

i paid £300
any machine shop should be able to do it
theyre about £30 per stud to buy

 

Where did you get them from mate?

 

This is the place that mountue use they will make the studs for you and machine the block.

http://www.pmasonengineering.co.uk/

 

if you get a quote from the company in maldon then let me know the price for 6 long studs and the machining

 

I have 6 long studs and it cost £420 from a place called gosnays in essex

 

Anyone else?

 

?

 

i have emailed pmasonengineering in Maldon for a price to machine the block for and supply 6 long studs with washers, o'rings and nuts,

will let you know what they say

 

Ok cool, see if they will do a deal on 2 engines?

 

just got a price and there bloody cheap compared to anyone else, just waiting for them to confirm something then il put the price up for anyone interested

 

If that's maldon Essex, I guess that's who did mine.
I had them done as part of the rebuild by joe Stevens @ bluesprint, and he's also in maldon.

 

Yeah put it up or send me a PM if you want to keep it quiet?

Nice one fella

 

pete mason engineering is where most of joes blocks go for long studding and as said are the same firm that do all mountunes long studding etc

ps you wont be able to get just any engineering firm to machine block for long studding..

cheers danny

 

price from pmason engineering,

Price to M/C Block for 6 Studs = £85.0

Stud Kit Complete = £130.0

 

Mine was done by SCS

 

thats a very good price how much for ten with the modified water pump

 

wow. that sounds cheap. how bout a group buy.

 

more a question is do i need to have long studs ?

 

[quote=markk;4842853]more a question is do i need to have long studs ?[/quote

depends how much horse. you wana run

 

do they do wet liner conversions. if so how much

 

...you can use std headbolts at 600bhp so long studding isnt essential BUT i feel its better to have when using the WRC head gasket to get the clamp. If your running high comp then it is essential imo.

 

id love to see how long a yb running 600 bhp with out long studs would last!!!!

if your building a big spec yb why wouldnt you make it better for the cost of long studding???

the clamping forces are better and come from the base of the block instead of the deck much safer and stronger....


cheers danny

 

It would last fine mate on a low comp engine, hi comp ala wrc cars and high cylinder pressures are where u really need long stud!

 

Absolute bollox mate!!!



cheers danny

 

..oh not to forget the 3bar boost spike!

The NMS monster runs std head bolts i beleive...that has a lot of bhp lol.

Its called "wrc" longstudding for a reason and thats only 300bhp with massive torque massive boost spike 9-1 + comp.

 

why do you think ford desighned a thick wall block back in the early 80s for??
The bttc cars(rs500)had a thick wall block wich could be drilled for long studding and big power upgrades,and funnily people and race teams did this to good effect
What power were these phil you numpty???550 bhp+ with what cr???6.8 and evenlower iirc
so as i said your talking shit mate!!!!
long studding was here before any body even thought of high comp engines and has nothing to do with power but boost pressures to stop the heads moving around on the block hence why they still use them on the wrc yb engines...
Also it was grp a long studding first so wrong again...


cheers danny

 

Phil,

I am concerned about my eninge at 480 bhp and no long studs!. Let alone 600.

 

the thing is it may be fine but with all that boost you run the head will be moving around on the block and sooner or latter it will crack the block face and if the hg does goe it will make a bigger mess than if studded as the std head bolts loosen before the hg starts to leak badly and can cause detting,its all ifs and buts but hey ho it works now just worry about it when it goes wrong...



cheers danny

 

Danny,

My engine was fine with 2.5 bar peak boost from a t34 but 2.5 bar froma Gt30 is another matter which is why i am slightly concerned . But yes you are correct its all ifs and's and but's. Will worry if it starts to go wrong

 

can you retorque the headbolts danny, or is it possible to replace the headbolts without removing the head ?

 

thats a good one..if you mean the long stud nuts then yes we always re torque them after the first hot run,if you mean std ones then you can always chek the torque settings as for changing them without removing the head you can change them one at a time using the torque pattern with out any trouble,just dont undoe them al at once as the head will lift and put fluids in the cylinder


cheers danny

 

yes thats what i meant danny ,if you checked and the bolts had lost their torque setting could you change them one a time using the original settings.
it could save a lot of hassle maybe?

 

Last time i got a block done,it was by a guy in blackpool,recomennded by msd,cost £200 and i supplied my own long studs,doing it again i would get 10 studs done

cheeRS stu

 

danny just in case your interested here is what NMS explained why they disagree with long studding

https://passionford.com/forum/genera...dding-bad.html