stu21t

i knew it was out but i didnt realise it was that much.
its at a static 6.15 degrees negative in the garage and increasing as i accelerate and it squats.
what is best for it uncompressed?
i would have thought more like 2 degrees?

fuzzy

6 degrees of static camber......!
i have no idea what your talking about.

RUPERT THE BIG HAIRY BEAR

its either negative or posative

r u saying static cause the car aint moving and its more when its moving

lloydmotorsport

iTrader: (1)

static camber?
camber is posative/neutral/negative.

stu21t

sorry yea i mean static cos the car is sat in the garage, and it increases the camber when on road and accelerating.

it is currently 6 degrees negative camber

and a quick search on google brings up that the ideal static camber is 1/2 - 1 degrees?

i wanna set mine up roughly before getting it done properly later on.

lloydmotorsport

iTrader: (1)

sounds like you need some adjustable top mounts.
pm nuts rus.

stu21t

stupid google.

i should explain myself more really.

its on my 5, not on a cossie, and its the rear wheels im talkiing about.
its all adjustable so i can do it myself now just wanna get it at the best angle i can before going for a proper setup.

stu21t

just had a read of simpsons motorsport
they recon 0.5 - 2.5 degrees of static negative camber is ideal so will set mine to 1.5 degrees.
wonder how much difference it will make.

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

roughly about 4.5 degrees at a guess

stu21t

some1 had to say it. lol

im always reading about 6 degree beams on cossies.
without soundin more stupid what exactly are they?
why are they better and what camber do they run not 6 degrees surely?

RUPERT THE BIG HAIRY BEAR

think about ur wheels at 66 degrees u idiot lol

stu21t

harsh lol
should hit the preview button 1st to spot mistakes i guess.
that was obviously meant to be 6

JTECH James

iTrader: (13)

might have slightly abnormal tyre wear at 66degs

stu21t

tyre wear is bad enough at 6.15 lol

jammerrs

a 6 degree as i understand it is a beam that allows the camber to change less as it squats or rises.

a 0 degree rear beam would be like a mk1 escort. that just allows the wheels up or down so camber is not affected by squatting

and 18 degree (as standard on cossies!?) allows the wheels to change more - this is why saphs GENERALLY dont do as well 1/4 milees compared to older cars with a 0 degree beam with equal power.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

6 degree beam isnt referring to static camber settings.

1-2 degrees sounds good as a starting point, but like I said the other day it depends on use what is optimum and you need to measure how much it changes by when it squats.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

PS

I would be suprised if it doesnt take a couple of tenths off your 0-60 time when you remove some camber from it.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Not good for tyres then.

markk

iTrader: (2)

if you are running 6deg of neggy camber, you dont just realise it all of a sudden, the wheel must of looked pissed for ages !

Chip

iTrader: (3)

It does, I said when I saw it at middlesex that it looked like it was "running about half a dozen degrees of camber"

I am gutted to here my eyesight is 0.15 degrees out of calibration

crazycage

pmsl

stu21t

lol ive always known its been out, i just never knew how much by
when it comes to geometry im a bit of a novice, but done a bit of measuring and reading and wolah, still a novice but with a slightly better setup lol
this is only to get me by until i get a pro to do it.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

To get the right results, you are going to need to spend time on track with it playing, but certainly worth getting "in the right ballpark" at least for now, if only to save your tyres!

stu21t

I like the look of that cornering force place you posted about but can't afford it.
I think I will get it done as good as locally then have a play till it feels most comfortable.
I have set it to roughly 1.5 now, I had to wind the top of the wheels out about 20mm each, which means they catch on the plastic arches/ bumpers, so I wound the coilovers up about 25mm each on the rear.
Haven't had chance for a test drive yet.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

Can you not wind the bottom in a little, rather than doing all the adjustment on the top?

Yes its a shame that the setting up for all the needed data logging equipment with corneringforce is so involved, it does make it very expensive for a "toy" car rather than a serious racer!

stu21t

Yep too dear for my toy.
The bottom is as far in as poss as it is. It's a shame the frame wasn't made a few mm smaller to get a bit more adjustment.
It's all adjustable but I don't have any room to adjust it lol.

Chip

iTrader: (3)

Not a big deal to cut and shut the bottom arm where the joint is I guess, but can understand you probably dont want to do so!

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

6 degrees im surprised your shafts have not popped out !!

stu21t

Shafts are fine, helps they are dead level.

And no chip I'd rather not have to cut and weld things, once set they won't need adjustin much anyway, and I'd rather cut a bit of arch away and raise the body a bit for clearance.