One for house people - Wooden floors
19-03-2009, 06:20 PM
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One for house people - Wooden floors
Whats the real difference between solid wood floor and Engineered wood Flooring? I have a hall way and would like wooden floor but the surfaces is not 100% smooth but not terrible. I think laminate might look a bit cheap? What can i get away with as budget has dwindled a lot 
19-03-2009, 06:27 PM
#2
Testing the future
laminate can look a bit cheap but is very durable which is important in a hall. i have used a light oak laminate from b&q in my hall and it does not look cheap imo. the secret to the look is in the laying. take the time to space it all out correctly and get the joints even etc. and put the skirting board on over the top, not bodge it with the little strips of edging
the floor where you will lay it does not have to be totally smooth as you put an 'underlay' of foam on top.
real wood is as it says on the tin - engineered wood is real wood that is glued together to make it stronger, usually using small pieces that would otherwise have been waste so usually cheaper.
the floor where you will lay it does not have to be totally smooth as you put an 'underlay' of foam on top.
real wood is as it says on the tin - engineered wood is real wood that is glued together to make it stronger, usually using small pieces that would otherwise have been waste so usually cheaper.
19-03-2009, 06:33 PM
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Cheers Nick! The Skirting is not on yet and is waiting on the flooring going down, so theres now problem there. i am fussy with having things done properly. With regards to real and Engineered wood there is no real difference in looks? I have not seen the two together to compare.
Dont know what to do tbh, been quoted nealy £400 for the wood and then have to be adhesive etc which been told is £90? And then spend on getting it fitted. Not sure wether want to spend that much? That is the proper wood flooring etc though.
Dont know what to do tbh, been quoted nealy £400 for the wood and then have to be adhesive etc which been told is £90? And then spend on getting it fitted. Not sure wether want to spend that much? That is the proper wood flooring etc though.
19-03-2009, 07:36 PM
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Another problem with solid oak flooring and the like is with the changes in temperature/humidity in your house as it's an entirely natural product it will shrink/warp. Which could leave you with gaps in your floor.
We're having a full laminate put down tomorrow I hope when it arrives and I've been told it will wear better than a solid oak floor, bearing in mind it will be in our hallway and have to put up with Captain Chaos scratting around on it.
We're having a full laminate put down tomorrow I hope when it arrives and I've been told it will wear better than a solid oak floor, bearing in mind it will be in our hallway and have to put up with Captain Chaos scratting around on it.
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19-03-2009, 07:42 PM
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19-03-2009, 07:42 PM
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Dont worry Djoi i wont wear my high heals People will take shoes of at front door in my house lol.
How can Lamite be better and stronger than solid wood flooring?
People will take shoes of at front door in my house lol.How can Lamite be better and stronger than solid wood flooring?
19-03-2009, 07:45 PM
#10
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Another problem with solid oak flooring and the like is with the changes in temperature/humidity in your house as it's an entirely natural product it will shrink/warp. Which could leave you with gaps in your floor.
We're having a full laminate put down tomorrow I hope when it arrives and I've been told it will wear better than a solid oak floor,
We're having a full laminate put down tomorrow I hope when it arrives and I've been told it will wear better than a solid oak floor,
Dojj it only really effects the pine or birch massively.
19-03-2009, 07:45 PM
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tbh i prefer a nice genuine hardwood floor, looks nicer but requires gluing, pinning and pulling up tight with ratchet straps, normally best to run the grain with the hallway to make rooms etc look bigger, good luck
19-03-2009, 07:45 PM
#12
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laminate is plastic so harder wearing but tends to also open up at the joints after a year or 2 with the weight of people walking on it constantly wearing down the 'click' system.
19-03-2009, 07:55 PM
#14
i put my laminate flooring down about 6 years ago, not moved and not opened up the gaps or buckled of wobbled about and that was some cheap b&q stuff
but i did do the prep work to make sure the interlock stuff was clean and the joints, hammered it all in propelry, no glue but i did put bits down the edges when i was hammering it home and there were a few nails to hold it in place originally
didn't go under the skirting though
but i did do the prep work to make sure the interlock stuff was clean and the joints, hammered it all in propelry, no glue but i did put bits down the edges when i was hammering it home and there were a few nails to hold it in place originally
didn't go under the skirting though
19-03-2009, 07:59 PM
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personally i like solid wood flooring, but depends on funds, but you can get nice laminates, but the prices they're id go soild wood flooring lol. but heels etc can dent solid wood but at the same time can chip crap laminates, its all down to preferance but expect wood to last longer
19-03-2009, 08:02 PM
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19-03-2009, 08:02 PM
#20
if you go for laminate get a bevelled edge floor 8mm thick, something like uniclic. The bevelled edge makes it look more realistic and reduced that lino look laminate can have.
Also, if care is taken fitting (not bashing the edges) the fact the edges are bevelled means that they are less likely to lift on the joins.
There are also LOTS of finishes, pick the correct colour with a grain texture finish to avoid that plastic look of cheap laminates.
Fit skirting after so there is no cheap beeding, and cut the door architraves and slide the laminate under (lay a piece of lam and underlay againt the frame, use a flat saw and saw into the frame on the side of the door frame that the lam will sit on. Then the laminate can be cut and slid under the fram for a smooth look.
Solid wood is nice but is expensive and is alot of work, laminate is a lot cheaper and easier and gives a nice look - just dont cheap out on the laminate you buy,
Also, if care is taken fitting (not bashing the edges) the fact the edges are bevelled means that they are less likely to lift on the joins.
There are also LOTS of finishes, pick the correct colour with a grain texture finish to avoid that plastic look of cheap laminates.
Fit skirting after so there is no cheap beeding, and cut the door architraves and slide the laminate under (lay a piece of lam and underlay againt the frame, use a flat saw and saw into the frame on the side of the door frame that the lam will sit on. Then the laminate can be cut and slid under the fram for a smooth look.
Solid wood is nice but is expensive and is alot of work, laminate is a lot cheaper and easier and gives a nice look - just dont cheap out on the laminate you buy,
19-03-2009, 08:05 PM
#21
cos its laminated
my mates gor a wood effect laminate in his house, in the play room and his missus is a child minder with lots of kids throwing toys etc around. its been down over a year and there is not a mark on it.
was about £10 a square metre from B&Q iirc.
do you already have a wood floor? but its uneven?
as you can get industrial sanders to make it all flat etc, then varnish over the top. a local tool hire place should have something like that
19-03-2009, 08:07 PM
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just wondering your reasons as this is normally standard precedure for solid wood
19-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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No Fudge, currently its just concrete as was carpet down before But tbh its not the smoothest lol. Though obviously not terrible.
Matt some good tips! Why can non of you fitters be local to me
Titcy i dont want tiled, as Kitchen will be and this is leading to Kitchen so will be to much in once space imo.
But tbh its not the smoothest lol. Though obviously not terrible.Matt some good tips! Why can non of you fitters be local to me
Titcy i dont want tiled, as Kitchen will be and this is leading to Kitchen so will be to much in once space imo.
Last edited by Rhys; 19-03-2009 at 08:09 PM.
19-03-2009, 08:13 PM
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Yeah will be paying someone, as dont think i trust myself doing it tbh. Laminte will be a lot easier than really wood, as laying ti with adhesive etc. As been told the Adhesive is not cheap 
19-03-2009, 08:20 PM
#29
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For the size he's after for the hallway as it's way under 25sm i'd float it.
How would you glue and pin it?
You talking about pinning the boards together from the top, to each other?
Or pinning the boards to the existing subfloor?
If the latter why would you secret nail it then glue it?
When you glue it are you talking about tongue and groove glueing? Which is floating or using the adhesive to bond to the existing subfloor?
19-03-2009, 08:28 PM
#31
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Sorry mate it isnt standard.
For the size he's after for the hallway as it's way under 25sm i'd float it.
How would you glue and pin it?
You talking about pinning the boards together from the top, to each other?
Or pinning the boards to the existing subfloor?
If the latter why would you secret nail it then glue it?
When you glue it are you talking about tongue and groove glueing? Which is floating or using the adhesive to bond to the existing subfloor?
For the size he's after for the hallway as it's way under 25sm i'd float it.
How would you glue and pin it?
You talking about pinning the boards together from the top, to each other?
Or pinning the boards to the existing subfloor?
If the latter why would you secret nail it then glue it?
When you glue it are you talking about tongue and groove glueing? Which is floating or using the adhesive to bond to the existing subfloor?
Glue the TnG's and secret nail it!
19-03-2009, 08:30 PM
#32
Professional Waffler
Fix 12mm ply down, then glue, strap and secret nail the soilid wood flooring down to that!
19-03-2009, 08:35 PM
#34
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Sorry mate it isnt standard.
For the size he's after for the hallway as it's way under 25sm i'd float it.
How would you glue and pin it?
You talking about pinning the boards together from the top, to each other?
Or pinning the boards to the existing subfloor?
If the latter why would you secret nail it then glue it?
When you glue it are you talking about tongue and groove glueing? Which is floating or using the adhesive to bond to the existing subfloor?
For the size he's after for the hallway as it's way under 25sm i'd float it.
How would you glue and pin it?
You talking about pinning the boards together from the top, to each other?
Or pinning the boards to the existing subfloor?
If the latter why would you secret nail it then glue it?
When you glue it are you talking about tongue and groove glueing? Which is floating or using the adhesive to bond to the existing subfloor?
19-03-2009, 08:37 PM
#35
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Yeah Lee onto Concrete floor. Agree solid wood is mega stuff, but im looking at £400 for the wood to cover that space before adhesive, fitting etc etc.
19-03-2009, 08:38 PM
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19-03-2009, 08:39 PM
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Whats the real difference between solid wood floor and Engineered wood Flooring? I have a hall way and would like wooden floor but the surfaces is not 100% smooth but not terrible. I think laminate might look a bit cheap? What can i get away with as budget has dwindled a lot
Pull up your skirting board. and lay floor then fit new skirting.
And also it you can fit some matching real oak thresholds, as the Bodge/diy strips look gash.
Its the only way to make laminate look half decent.
You say sufrace is not smooth, do you mean the existing floor? You can get over this buy using a self leveling latex compound for a perfect level.
19-03-2009, 08:40 PM
#38
Professional Waffler
Im about to fit it into my office!
19-03-2009, 08:42 PM
#39
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As it's under 25sm yes.
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
19-03-2009, 08:48 PM
#40
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plys fixed down for tiling ,not hardwood floors. floating as already said if on concrete or perhaps on timber battons, foam edged 2x2 or similar..
Last edited by fuzzy; 19-03-2009 at 08:50 PM.