One for house people - Wooden floors
#41
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As it's under 25sm yes.
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
Im not saying you CANT fit solid flooring floating or that it wont look good but imo its not the right way...solid flooring is meant to be fixed firmly in place!
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#42
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Skirting is not on yet anyway
Will go to Wickes and BBQ plus a few other local distributors and have a look at all the different types. So would Engineered wood be happy medium between Laminate and Solid?
Arggh i cant make my mind up. How long do you think it would take to lay a floor like that and do proper job over my area?:
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Arggh i cant make my mind up. How long do you think it would take to lay a floor like that and do proper job over my area?:
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#43
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If your a time served joiner you should know, ifyouve never seen it done, work for better firms
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#44
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i have oak all through my hall,living room and lounge,i absolutely love it.it might get dented by high heels,mine hasnt yet even though my wife comes in with them on,the dogs run around on it and theres no damege,theres 1 line at the door where i put a set of keys through the letterbox then opened the door later.with real wood you can sand it loads of times.it doesnt creak either.i have seen a few done that buckle up and move,usually this is caused by not letting the wood aclimatise to the house before laying,we left ours in a room for 2 weeks.its sealed with wax and everything wipes off of it.it is a floor for life where with laminate you will eventually wear through the wood grain effect topcoat where you regularly walk.our wood was 28 a square meter to buy and about 25 a square meter to lay if i remember correctly,that was the cheapest i could get it done for,we were about 2800 all in,the guy that laid it did rip us off as he got through it a hell of a lot quicker than he thought,but a price is a price.
#46
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Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning
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#47
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Going of measurements i put up, how long would you expect to fit that? Charge etc? Only real odd bit is around bottom of stairs as bottom step comes out and goes around etc.
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As it's under 25sm yes.
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
The subfloor HAS to be level then use a parque type underlay running 45 degres to the joints. I'm also assuming it's at least 22mm thick.
Anything less then 22mm or an area bigger then 25sm a different way would be needed.
There's even products like elastilon which cut out the need for nail's or glue, it's expensive @ £9sm but makes easyer to fit trade and diy.
I'd like to know how you'd fit a solid floor to a concrete subfloor with nail's and t&g glued?
Under 25sqm and if its 22mm thick always do the loose lay thing
#49
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Well in that case i'm going to the supplyer's tomorow to tell them to tell the people who machine and grade the wood and who spend millions every year on development of laquers and expansion jointing and then distribute throughout the world that the guidelines they give are wrong, as they are wrong does that mean the LIFETIME structural guarantee that comes with the wood would only be honoured if it was fitted the wrong was as stated in there guidelines for fitting.
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning
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Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method! I wouldnt walk away from a job happy if id only floated it over some underlay on top of a concrete floor!
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Well in that case i'm going to the supplyer's tomorow to tell them to tell the people who machine and grade the wood and who spend millions every year on development of laquers and expansion jointing and then distribute throughout the world that the guidelines they give are wrong, as they are wrong does that mean the LIFETIME structural guarantee that comes with the wood would only be honoured if it was fitted the wrong was as stated in there guidelines for fitting.
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning![Surprised](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/bigcry.gif)
Thanks for that mate i'll go first thing in the morning
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lol
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I got some paperwork for a wood floor that i am fitting on Monday which is 22mm thick think i had better throw it all away and do it Passionford style
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#51
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its a fair sized living room,dining room and a l shaped hallway,it took about 20 hours,i cant remember exactly how many square meters but thats what the wood and overall cost was.i got it from russwood up in inverness.theres a knothole in our living room which i would have made them change but i never noticed till they were gone,the wifes nephew seen it and asked why we had holes in our carpet!
#52
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the shape of the step doesnt matter. the jigsaw will see to that. i cant see how that couldnt be done in a day or maybe a day and a couple of hours if skirtings are also going back down. if its going half under any doors they will need to be removed and cut so more time there. for me to do that id be charging 300ish depending on details .
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All thats bollox mate! All that shit is just modern development and shit to cover the DIY'er etc! All about getting the job done quicker like all the rest of the shite that goes off in the building trade!
Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method! I wouldnt walk away from a job happy if id only floated it over some underlay on top of a concrete floor!
Im talking about fitting natural, solid oak flooring down in a proper traditional proven method! I wouldnt walk away from a job happy if id only floated it over some underlay on top of a concrete floor!
#54
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with the hardwood floors there only 4 inches wide by ramdon lengths so you need to cover the floor with ply to get a decent fixing in it, you could'nt use the 2x2 batterns besause they would be every where.
#56
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Floating floors IS proven!
So you'd fit a 22mm solid on a 12mm base in a hall way under 7sm?
Your raising the floor level by atleast 34mm going into maybe 3/4/5 or more rooms that dont have it running through, so every doorbar would have to be machined for the height and the drop would be fucking stupid,
And you'd walk away from that job happy?
#58
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So thats what a GOOD carpet will cost, look how long a PROPERLY fixed solid oak floor will last though! How much better it will look, and how easy it is to keep clean being in the hallway of all places! Worth the extra few ££ imo Rhys
Im about to fit it into my office!
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Im about to fit it into my office!
This is the job ive been doing the last 3 weeks. Basically a double (lenght wise) garage conversion into master bed and ensuite with bay window and french doors
Hope to finish off tommrow
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They chose a light oak laminate, which i must admit looks ok as We have made up real oak arcitrave and skirting.
Dont know what skirting your using, you say b&q which scares me a little
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You be much better going to somewhere like travis perkins, get better service, material and price.
We make our oak on planers and router machines but travis now sell this stuff buy the meter in oak, and its really not that expensive.
Just need to fix with screws and pelets and then laquer it and job done
You have to agree it really sets off the floor.
#59
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TBH, i wouldnt expect a floor layer to fix it as ive described i wouldnt even expect them to fix it properly over a wooden subfloor! Id expect them to float it over that too as they are floor layers not joiners!
I wouldnt expect a joiner to float one in the same respect!
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As long as your mre dont wear her high heals all over it, like mine did
This is the job ive been doing the last 3 weeks. Basically a double (lenght wise) garage conversion into master bed and ensuite with bay window and french doors
Hope to finish off tommrow![Big Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work001.jpg)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work002.jpg)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work003.jpg)
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They chose a light oak laminate, which i must admit looks ok as We have made up real oak arcitrave and skirting.
Dont know what skirting your using, you say b&q which scares me a little![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
You be much better going to somewhere like travis perkins, get better service, material and price.
We make our oak on planers and router machines but travis now sell this stuff buy the meter in oak, and its really not that expensive.
Just need to fix with screws and pelets and then laquer it and job done
You have to agree it really sets off the floor.
This is the job ive been doing the last 3 weeks. Basically a double (lenght wise) garage conversion into master bed and ensuite with bay window and french doors
Hope to finish off tommrow
![Big Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work001.jpg)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work002.jpg)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work003.jpg)
![](http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n271/leeivatt/work004.jpg)
They chose a light oak laminate, which i must admit looks ok as We have made up real oak arcitrave and skirting.
Dont know what skirting your using, you say b&q which scares me a little
![Wink](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
You be much better going to somewhere like travis perkins, get better service, material and price.
We make our oak on planers and router machines but travis now sell this stuff buy the meter in oak, and its really not that expensive.
Just need to fix with screws and pelets and then laquer it and job done
You have to agree it really sets off the floor.
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#62
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What, as opposed to fitting the unnatural solid oak?
Floating floors IS proven!
So you'd fit a 22mm solid on a 12mm base in a hall way under 7sm?
Your raising the floor level by atleast 34mm going into maybe 3/4/5 or more rooms that dont have it running through, so every doorbar would have to be machined for the height and the drop would be fucking stupid,
And you'd walk away from that job happy?
Floating floors IS proven!
So you'd fit a 22mm solid on a 12mm base in a hall way under 7sm?
Your raising the floor level by atleast 34mm going into maybe 3/4/5 or more rooms that dont have it running through, so every doorbar would have to be machined for the height and the drop would be fucking stupid,
And you'd walk away from that job happy?
No as opposed to fitting engineered oak flooring ,no need to get clever
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Will take a picky of the ensuite tommrow. Spent over £1k on having marble made you for the bespoke units and window reveals.
Now you know why the 16i aint had much progress the last 3 weeks
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#68
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How childish
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Last edited by Lee Reynolds; 19-03-2009 at 10:02 PM.
#69
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Look forward to seeing the marble
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#70
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What can of Worms
Im of to local builder merchant tomorrow as i did choose the Wood flooring but havign few issues getting it. Was solid teaked oak, There is few flooring places by that palce so will have butchers about, just not sure i can afford atm as pain in the arse. I still gotta buy all furniture and rest of building wk has gone OBver budget lol.
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#71
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What can of Worms
Im of to local builder merchant tomorrow as i did choose the Wood flooring but havign few issues getting it. Was solid teaked oak, There is few flooring places by that palce so will have butchers about, just not sure i can afford atm as pain in the arse. I still gotta buy all furniture and rest of building wk has gone OBver budget lol.
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#72
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Right my understanding was engineered was better for hallway as it didnt react so much to heat, and provided the top layer was nice and thick it's as durable as solid wood.
How is best to lay it on a concrete floor?
How is best to lay it on a concrete floor?
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We do stick quite a bit down but it all depends on the job-house and the situation.
Most if not all of my work is in BATH so its not cheap jobs,
and as i sub-contract to shops i HAVE to follow the fitting advice of the manufactures..
Maybe the manufactures should ask construction company wanna be fat cats to tell them how to fit their products
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Anyway i'm off in a min to do a job the wrong way seems i ain't done it right for the last 20 years
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Last edited by Chris Honeywell; 20-03-2009 at 07:53 AM.
#74
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Laminate is balls end of. Its only a pic of wood with a cheap thin laminate over the top.Good for a year or two tops.
Real wood is much better for wear and tear and can easily be sanded down. Tho its a Joiners job to fit but looks great when done.
Best bet is AMTICO or KARNDEAN, for life span, looks and ease of fitting.
Once down will never move,shrink ,warp crack or any of that stuff. Easy to live with being vinyl , mop it a few times a week and will still be looking great 10+ years on.
Karndean £30 Sq mtr upwards and £15ish per Sq mtr fitting. Excluding 6-8 mm marine Ply subfloor which varies greatly in £. Tho, you have concrete so 1 to 2 bags of latex self leveling screed £20 eash inc the Milk to mix it with.
FAR FAR Better than anything else available imo.
Real wood is much better for wear and tear and can easily be sanded down. Tho its a Joiners job to fit but looks great when done.
Best bet is AMTICO or KARNDEAN, for life span, looks and ease of fitting.
Once down will never move,shrink ,warp crack or any of that stuff. Easy to live with being vinyl , mop it a few times a week and will still be looking great 10+ years on.
Karndean £30 Sq mtr upwards and £15ish per Sq mtr fitting. Excluding 6-8 mm marine Ply subfloor which varies greatly in £. Tho, you have concrete so 1 to 2 bags of latex self leveling screed £20 eash inc the Milk to mix it with.
FAR FAR Better than anything else available imo.
#76
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my house in germany was laminated in the bedrooms as well and i liked it for the same reasons as you and the lack of dust is good for the missus who has asthma. it does feel a little colder to the touch than real wood though, so i don't know which we'll go for in the bedroom here when we redecorate soon
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Might end up going Laminate only down to price issues. If i was only decorating the one room i would do it with proper wood. but i need to budget for rest of house and dont think i can justify it
Bit gutted, just its 3 times price of Laminate really.
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