Shot Blasting (Renting or Using in Open Air)
06-11-2008, 07:02 AM
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Shot Blasting (Renting or Using in Open Air)
Right im thinking of buying the shot blasting kit to use with a compressor to do so resto on my shell.
Has anyone used these? Are they any good?
Also how much shot/grit/sand do they use? tons?
Did you reuse it somehow? i.e sweep it up and put it back in.
Basically want to do the engine bay, underneath and inside of my car.
Any tips greatly aprieciated,
Also if anyone mentions it i've already though about chemical dipping the shell, but the costs are just too high.
Has anyone used these? Are they any good?
Also how much shot/grit/sand do they use? tons?
Did you reuse it somehow? i.e sweep it up and put it back in.
Basically want to do the engine bay, underneath and inside of my car.
Any tips greatly aprieciated,
Also if anyone mentions it i've already though about chemical dipping the shell, but the costs are just too high.
06-11-2008, 07:05 AM
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Its a coooont of a job the dust and noise is unreal. The sand gets everywhere. 
The guy i use for blasting does reuse some of his sand, lets it dry in a massive barn.
Id pay someone to do it, far nicer!
The guy i use for blasting does reuse some of his sand, lets it dry in a massive barn.
Id pay someone to do it, far nicer!
06-11-2008, 07:18 AM
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i was toying with that, i.e trailer the car somewhere, but how locally could do that, and at what cost, i.e there not going to want to do it in open air i would imagine.
06-11-2008, 07:36 AM
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Speak to steel fabrication firms local to you. You need to use a fine silicone free grit (sand has silicone in it)or even better this plastic media stuff cos it doesn't take away any steel.
If you were closer i'd do it for you, I did my own car.
Whoever does it just make sure its not concentrated on one spot for too long. And be prepared with an industrial hoover for the next week!
If you were closer i'd do it for you, I did my own car.
Whoever does it just make sure its not concentrated on one spot for too long. And be prepared with an industrial hoover for the next week!
06-11-2008, 07:50 AM
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cheers for the advice, think i might jsut take it somewhere if the cost isnt very high.
as i think it will be more agro than its worth for me to do, and looking on the net, it seems quite a few companies do car blasting (none that local to me though)
although im going to phone my usual powder coater and see what he says on who might be able to do it.
as i think it will be more agro than its worth for me to do, and looking on the net, it seems quite a few companies do car blasting (none that local to me though)
although im going to phone my usual powder coater and see what he says on who might be able to do it.
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06-11-2008, 08:50 AM
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Depending on how small the area/parts are my mate had a small kit that he used with his compressor for sand blasting stuff at home it even had a thing that recycled the crap out of the sand it used. I could find out what it is if you want?
06-11-2008, 10:35 AM
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please rich, and nigel very kind offer might take you up on that, even if its just to do the engine bay would save me a monster task, as some tit has put so much paint on and "high build" primer its undereal, some places its like 3mm thick 
06-11-2008, 10:50 AM
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I was under the impresssion that proper shot blasting is actually quite a skill, and that you have to be ready to coat the exposed metal straight away to stop moisture beginning the rusting process?
06-11-2008, 12:37 PM
#19
PMS is no good for steel (the media will just disintegrate to quick and won't work as well as it should), if your on about using a PMS booth from painters in the RAF, they won't allow it due to cross contamination with ally, which what 'PMS' is used for.
Ryan, you need DMS, It's not to expensive, and I wouldn't even think of setting up your own unless you got a BIG area, and the right breathing setup, Which I'm pretty sure you need a license for..
It's very noisy, messy and a shit job to do, Plus if you dont know what you doing, you might blow holes in the metal!
hth
06-11-2008, 12:50 PM
#20
PMS is no good for steel (the media will just disintegrate to quick and won't work as well as it should), if your on about using a PMS booth from painters in the RAF, they won't allow it due to cross contamination with ally, which what 'PMS' is used for.
Ryan, you need DMS, It's not to expensive, and I wouldn't even think of setting up your own unless you got a BIG area, and the right breathing setup, Which I'm pretty sure you need a license for..
It's very noisy, messy and a shit job to do, Plus if you dont know what you doing, you might blow holes in the metal!
hth
Ryan, you need DMS, It's not to expensive, and I wouldn't even think of setting up your own unless you got a BIG area, and the right breathing setup, Which I'm pretty sure you need a license for..
It's very noisy, messy and a shit job to do, Plus if you dont know what you doing, you might blow holes in the metal!
hth
There's no standards since the raf moved out
06-11-2008, 01:28 PM
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when we have shells done,engine bay inside and underneath its usually Ł300 which I would say is a fare price to pay. any quotes higher walk away but any lower snap there hand off! its a shite job to be doing.....
06-11-2008, 02:36 PM
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06-11-2008, 03:28 PM
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Speak to steel fabrication firms local to you. You need to use a fine silicone free grit (sand has silicone in it)or even better this plastic media stuff cos it doesn't take away any steel.
If you were closer i'd do it for you, I did my own car.
Whoever does it just make sure its not concentrated on one spot for too long. And be prepared with an industrial hoover for the next week!
If you were closer i'd do it for you, I did my own car.
Whoever does it just make sure its not concentrated on one spot for too long. And be prepared with an industrial hoover for the next week!
06-11-2008, 04:45 PM
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i do grit blasting/shot peening for a living but nothing as big as a car, tbh i would get it done professionaly as even coverage is pretty important.
aluminium oxide grit would be the way to go, plastic will take hours to do anything and glass bead is not really ideal for this.
if you have got anything you need to know about different media let me know
aluminium oxide grit would be the way to go, plastic will take hours to do anything and glass bead is not really ideal for this.
if you have got anything you need to know about different media let me know
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