What about nikasil liners?
#1
PassionFord Regular
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What about nikasil liners?
What about these nikasil liners that everyone is talking about? Where you buy it from? how much? and how the process is made? apriciate all the help. Thanks.
#2
Caraholic
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The walls of the block are completely removed (so can be done to a cracked / over-bored "scrap" block that no-one else would want ), and steel liners pressed in. The Nikasil is a friction reducing coating process. The reason for doing it is strength and resistance to cylinder pressures that would otherwise crack the standard block.
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I have Nikasil liners in my ZVH. The water way blew when mapping on the original spec engine (due to a casting defect in the block - which was a NEW Ford item), so it was sent off for the machining and liners. Hopefully this will create a good strong bottom end capable of some serious boost.
You will also need to use specific piston rings if you have a linered block - you should be advised this when you order your liners.
You will also need to use specific piston rings if you have a linered block - you should be advised this when you order your liners.
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#9
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I've heard of production model cars fitted with liners to have some batch problems. But I have heard of none that have be retro-fitted having problems.
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a lot of old motorcross 2 stroke bikes ran nikasel liners if i remember the kx 250 was one of these i did hear problems with the liner coating wearing away but not sure about new generation of liners tho
just a qiuck question though do you reqiure the rubber o rings that sit at bottom of the liner like the liners fitted to r5 gt turbo,s and pug 205 gti,s etc for sealing
and also can std ybo 611 gaskets fit or is it liner reccommended jobbie
looking to liner an old block ive cracked down two of the bores(straight to waterway)
but with my past experience on before mentioned cars am reluctant as i know they can be a pain unless done properly
just a qiuck question though do you reqiure the rubber o rings that sit at bottom of the liner like the liners fitted to r5 gt turbo,s and pug 205 gti,s etc for sealing
and also can std ybo 611 gaskets fit or is it liner reccommended jobbie
looking to liner an old block ive cracked down two of the bores(straight to waterway)
but with my past experience on before mentioned cars am reluctant as i know they can be a pain unless done properly
#13
Caraholic
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If you have them done properly, then there are no issues. These particular liners are done to the same tried and tested spec and style as the Ford works cars (which run 30psi at 2500, 42psi ay 3000 (500lb ft of torque at this rpm point !), 37psi at 3500, 29psi at 4000, 25psi at 4500, 20psi at 5000, 16psi at 5500, 13psi at 6000, 11psi at 6500, 9psi at 7000 and 7psi at 7500 and all this on a 10.2:1 compression (albeit with high octane race fuel). So I think you could safely say they are strong enough!
90.8mm bore + machining (only) for 10 stud = £1400ish (customer supplied block) + delivery
93mm + machining (only) for 10 stud = £1600ish (customer supplied block) + delivery
The only reason for Rod's failure was down to the way Perfect Bore did his liners. I understand from Mark's comments on that post that they have since moved away from this style of fitment for Rod's new engine and are using the same Ford works spec / style as I have posted pictures of above. Perfect Bore supply the 93mm liners and Mountune supply the 90.8 ones (which are made in Italy). Perfect Bore / Mountune have completely perfected the Nikasil coating process and as far as I am aware, there have been no issues with the coating process (touch wood!).
The crucial point is the machining and fitting of the liners, which is carried for Harvey by the same people who do the works blocks. The block is heated, the liners frozen and then very quickly pressed into place as an interference fit . So the machining has to be absolutely 100% perfect...
90.8mm bore + machining (only) for 10 stud = £1400ish (customer supplied block) + delivery
93mm + machining (only) for 10 stud = £1600ish (customer supplied block) + delivery
The only reason for Rod's failure was down to the way Perfect Bore did his liners. I understand from Mark's comments on that post that they have since moved away from this style of fitment for Rod's new engine and are using the same Ford works spec / style as I have posted pictures of above. Perfect Bore supply the 93mm liners and Mountune supply the 90.8 ones (which are made in Italy). Perfect Bore / Mountune have completely perfected the Nikasil coating process and as far as I am aware, there have been no issues with the coating process (touch wood!).
The crucial point is the machining and fitting of the liners, which is carried for Harvey by the same people who do the works blocks. The block is heated, the liners frozen and then very quickly pressed into place as an interference fit . So the machining has to be absolutely 100% perfect...
#16
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yes defenitly, I like to use the wrc head type gaskit but over here in Malta are doing a different type of gaskit with the rings being machined in the block. These are not like wire wrung but a different type of rings which can take massive boost. these are manifucatured in Italy by Nava linea. I will try to make a pic as well. Quarter mile fans over here are all using these type of gaskit and prooved to be very effective.
#17
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Okey, my understanding is that nikasil liners are necessary when your block \ bores are excessively worn..
Now this may sound like a stupid question, but I’ll ask anyway..
Would you recommend having liners installed to a new block that would be build for 500bhp.. or are nikasil liners only required if your current block is due for rebuild..?
My guess is that it’s worth doing this at the start of the build, thus making the bottom end bullet proof from day1.. or is it not worth it at this level of tune..??
thanks,
Manoj
Now this may sound like a stupid question, but I’ll ask anyway..
Would you recommend having liners installed to a new block that would be build for 500bhp.. or are nikasil liners only required if your current block is due for rebuild..?
My guess is that it’s worth doing this at the start of the build, thus making the bottom end bullet proof from day1.. or is it not worth it at this level of tune..??
thanks,
Manoj
#18
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porsche has been using nikasil since the 60s afaik. reason for it being that piston has less friction on the nikasil (which actually means NIkkel, CAdmium and SILicium) so it can move with less effort or drag.
also, it has better properties when the oil film is torn, protecting the cylinder wall and piston (no oil or too hot oil situation) against scratching etc.
porsche used to have little stars engraved in the bores that could hold tiny amounts of oil so when the engine was started, it was lubricated right from start and not only after the oil pump had filled the channels etc.
was seen a lot, as some have mentioned, in the 2-stroke world for above reasons aswell.
the liners on the other hand give the strength that everyone goes on about, we just got them in a nikasil coated version because it gaves us above mentioned benefits on top. really what we wanted was the strength (liners) in the first place.
oh yeah....one last thing about this setup : normal piston rings dont work, needs to be special material (donno what though...)
also, it has better properties when the oil film is torn, protecting the cylinder wall and piston (no oil or too hot oil situation) against scratching etc.
porsche used to have little stars engraved in the bores that could hold tiny amounts of oil so when the engine was started, it was lubricated right from start and not only after the oil pump had filled the channels etc.
was seen a lot, as some have mentioned, in the 2-stroke world for above reasons aswell.
the liners on the other hand give the strength that everyone goes on about, we just got them in a nikasil coated version because it gaves us above mentioned benefits on top. really what we wanted was the strength (liners) in the first place.
oh yeah....one last thing about this setup : normal piston rings dont work, needs to be special material (donno what though...)
#19
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but there are also steel liners on the market or not?
nikasil is just a coating, which was developed by Mahle years ago, if I am right.
aren't steel liners much cheaper and also quite healthy? Perhaps not that perfect for a 600 hp engine, but for a "smaller" one these should suit if you have a block on 2nd bore.... or?
nikasil is just a coating, which was developed by Mahle years ago, if I am right.
aren't steel liners much cheaper and also quite healthy? Perhaps not that perfect for a 600 hp engine, but for a "smaller" one these should suit if you have a block on 2nd bore.... or?
#22
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
The only reason for Rod's failure was down to the way Perfect Bore did his liners. I understand from Mark's comments on that post that they have since moved away from this style of fitment for Rod's new engine and are using the same Ford works spec / style as I have posted pictures of above. ...
Mike is correct we have now gone back to the type of liner Mike has shown it allows better cooling which will stop the rear of the block warping.
We tried to move things on & failed.
However i will add we were using a '99' block which we now know is not as strong as earlier ones & we are now using a heat-cycled block not a new one. Development is an expensive game.
#23
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Originally Posted by miller3
Originally Posted by miller3
These have been used for years haven't thay
Iv heard the Nicasil can come away from the bore.. is this true?
Iv heard the Nicasil can come away from the bore.. is this true?
if you use the right pistons and rings, normally not, if it wears, the cylinder will fail....
#26
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Originally Posted by - Sim -
but there are also steel liners on the market or not?
nikasil is just a coating, which was developed by Mahle years ago, if I am right.
aren't steel liners much cheaper and also quite healthy? Perhaps not that perfect for a 600 hp engine, but for a "smaller" one these should suit if you have a block on 2nd bore.... or?
nikasil is just a coating, which was developed by Mahle years ago, if I am right.
aren't steel liners much cheaper and also quite healthy? Perhaps not that perfect for a 600 hp engine, but for a "smaller" one these should suit if you have a block on 2nd bore.... or?
I have a 200 block on standard bore with one liner in it. Needs a rebore on no 4 now as well due to melted piston, wondered if it would be worth more to liner the lot or the just the melted one to keep it at standard bore, or just get it bored to .25 oversize (1 liner and 3 normal bores, all at .25 oversize)
Anyone know?
Si
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