boost problem
removing the plunger and spring will allow full bleed most boost maps are filled with ff which is max duty cycle.
An amul valve as used on the sierra cosworth is not a particularly good boost control valve it is cheap and should be replaced with a decent valve
An amul valve as used on the sierra cosworth is not a particularly good boost control valve it is cheap and should be replaced with a decent valve
yes it can stick air injectors on and inverse the boost strategy.
i would suggest people run a standard 2.5 mm in the r port to start and 0.8 in the c port this reduces the control pressure in the amul valve ,they weren't designed to control heavy actuators or high boost, high boost can generate outlet temps from the turbo in excess of 200 deg c.the valves have been known to regularly fall apart it is plastic
i would suggest people run a standard 2.5 mm in the r port to start and 0.8 in the c port this reduces the control pressure in the amul valve ,they weren't designed to control heavy actuators or high boost, high boost can generate outlet temps from the turbo in excess of 200 deg c.the valves have been known to regularly fall apart it is plastic
saff is working!!!...atm
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From: fishburn sex shop...co.durham
Originally Posted by Mitsy FQ
removing the plunger and spring will allow full bleed most boost maps are filled with ff which is max duty cycle.
An amul valve as used on the sierra cosworth is not a particularly good boost control valve it is cheap and should be replaced with a decent valve
An amul valve as used on the sierra cosworth is not a particularly good boost control valve it is cheap and should be replaced with a decent valve
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From: Exeter
I have to say I have removed the amal valve from my setup for various reasons.
I use a blitz boost control valve which uses dual solenoids to control boost. In my case, the boost I am running is close to the peak capacity of the turbo (similar to you JTech, 32psi peak, and 28psi hold). As such, it naturally has a kind of peak and hold characteristic.
The Boost controller uses the solenoids to do the job of the amal valve, but you program it yourself, rather than allowing the ecu to control it. It has four channels that can be mapped against rpm or speed.
It also has a boost match mode, which basically means you can set the desired level of boost, and it achieves it. This is a good deal more stable in varying conditions - prevents overboost in very cold climates.
JJ
I use a blitz boost control valve which uses dual solenoids to control boost. In my case, the boost I am running is close to the peak capacity of the turbo (similar to you JTech, 32psi peak, and 28psi hold). As such, it naturally has a kind of peak and hold characteristic.
The Boost controller uses the solenoids to do the job of the amal valve, but you program it yourself, rather than allowing the ecu to control it. It has four channels that can be mapped against rpm or speed.
It also has a boost match mode, which basically means you can set the desired level of boost, and it achieves it. This is a good deal more stable in varying conditions - prevents overboost in very cold climates.
JJ
Originally Posted by RS500/364
JUst get a expert to do it would have been sorted by now
if you dont know BREAK IT FFS
if you dont know BREAK IT FFS
but why not gain knowledge of how to sort probs yourself?
Check the postion of the wastegate shaft compared to a car that you know holds good boost. If the arm is at a different angle to yours, the it will be this.
What happens is that the heat makes the metal soft and the spring tension from the actuator is enough to twist it, so that it effectively backs the boost off. You can keep adjusting the actuator to compensate, but eventually you will reach the end of it's range.
The only cure is to fit an inconnel wastegate shaft which can withstand the heat.
What happens is that the heat makes the metal soft and the spring tension from the actuator is enough to twist it, so that it effectively backs the boost off. You can keep adjusting the actuator to compensate, but eventually you will reach the end of it's range.
The only cure is to fit an inconnel wastegate shaft which can withstand the heat.
That information is classified - this message will self destruct in 5, 4, 3....
It's what they make jet engine blades out of, it is a mixture of metals (not sure what) that can withstand extreme temperatures.
It's what they make jet engine blades out of, it is a mixture of metals (not sure what) that can withstand extreme temperatures.
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As Bill said above...........
The clever bit is that it protects itself when heated.............
When heated, Inconel forms a thick, stable, passivating oxide layer protecting the surface from further attack. Inconel retains strength over a wide temperature range, attractive for high temperature applications where aluminum and steel would "soften".
More information here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inconel
The clever bit is that it protects itself when heated.............
When heated, Inconel forms a thick, stable, passivating oxide layer protecting the surface from further attack. Inconel retains strength over a wide temperature range, attractive for high temperature applications where aluminum and steel would "soften".
More information here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inconel
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Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
t34 im not telling you what ex housing as you will take the piss and say it wont last 5minuites with als
damm i bet you can guess now
damm i bet you can guess now
PassionFord Post Whore!!
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From: Exeter
Originally Posted by JTECHSAFF
damm 
jj ,its not the actuator ,its the wastegate arm, on the turbo
jj ,its not the actuator ,its the wastegate arm, on the turbo
Oh bugger that then ROFL!!!
Ill stick to mild poo!! Mind you - at least its on a 0.63 housing
JJ
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