NOW FIXED!!!!

i now have no compression after fitting cams scroll down for more info


i got some 2.0 cams from an engine at the scrap yard and i want to make shure that there actualy 2.0 cams because anything could of been fitted to the old scrap yard car in its life!

cheers any info would be greatly apreciated!

 

Dont they have a number cast in them?

 

yes but both my cams have same number

looks like the number is there before there ground from blanks

 

the ex cam seems to have 1mm more lift

i just took the cam out of my 2i

not mesured inlet yet

 

I have a pair of 2,0 cams in my workshop, I can measure lift and base circle if that would be of any help....

 

ok just got in from the freezing cold and fitted cams and timed up perfectly and double checked! and my dad checked it too!

even put screwdriver down the plug hole to make absoloutly shure it was TDC!

no compression on any cylenders!!

seems like the hydralic tapets arnt letting the valves shut

do whats to do now? new set of hydralic tappets x16 ??

inlet cams had an easy 3mm more lift btw

 

You havent fitted black top cams to a silver top or vice versa have you ?

because Silvertops have hydraulic lifters, blacktops have solids.

Because of this the cam profiles are totally different.

 

the Cams 180 degrees out? sorta easy-ish to do on a zetec
if you dont use a flat plate to lock the cams at the coil pack end.

 

You also need the locking pin in the block too...

 

ok put old cams back in and still the same!!

however turn the pulley over with no cams in and i have a job to turn engine over with the compression !

so is it posible that the lifters have some how pumped them selves up???

 

If timing is 100%:

Get a tow rope, and tow the car around in 1st - keep trying to start it and eventually it should go - the tappets may have 'pumped up' so no longer allow the valves to seal.

This should obviously only be done if you're 100% on your timing, and the engine turns over by hand.

 

ok would it hurt if i put the lifters in a vice and squeeze the oil out?

 

As long as you don't scratch them, then I suppose it would work.

I'd just stick them in and tow the car about until it runs - that what they do over here.

 

if you turned the car over with no cams youll only be turning the crank anyway??????

you still havent said how it turns over by hand thought with cams

 

just a thought.. you have put the exhaust cam in the exhaust side and
inlet in the inlet side??

inlet cam on Zetec has the lug for the cam trigger on it (coil pack end)

 

woo hoo towed it for a mile and it started to fire on 1 cyl then 2 then suddenly started to isle smooth!!!!!!!!


cheers ON-UJAH you'r a star!!!

the little fooker cirtemly goes now!!! loves 7k rev limiter no problem!!

only problem now is its running 1 lambda flat out so i need a rs 1800 ecu to fix that

or try the resister of doom on the air temp sensor

cant beleve how far we towed it with the transit in 1st to get it working

roll on the bike throttle bodies and megasquirt!

 

Your problem is almost certainly the lifters being extended if you've had the cams out - when you put the cams back in they will hold the valves open even on the base circle. Answer is to compress the lifters carefully in a vice just before you refit them with cams, to get all the oil out. It's surprising how hard you need to squeeze to get the oil out when it's cold, hence why they will hold the valves open against the springs.

 

I didn't know the zetec e had a timing pin for the block, where abouts does it go?

 

yup its that bolt in the block near the crank sensor!

whip that out and shove in the tool!

 

ive never heard of that either mate.

i know there is an M8 bolt in the block, near the flame trap/CPS

so you take this out and then what?

scew a longer bolt in that i assume locates in the crank at TDC?

 

Guys Guys Guys...

I cant believe you have Zetecs and dont know there is a tool to lock the engine up.

Its essential when doing a cambelt.... its a general service tool

 

got any pics lol

the haynes only states about the tool to lock the cams in place

i would like to know tho as i have to do the timing on zetec turbo soon

so, PICS please!!!!

 

yeah ditto, i know about the pin on the zetec se as the crank pulley is tapered but never knew there was one for the zetec e.

James [ford mechanic]

 

PIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIICS

 

Just checked tis and it seems it's just left of the cps and you remove a blanking bolt and then fit the special tool. Only thats for the black-top. The older zetec it says remove the starter motor and fit a universal flywheel locking tool.

BUT that may well be wrong?

 

CVH tappets can also cause problems after a cam change, and the method works there too.

 

well i know about the bolt that does nothing, but never seen that there is anything to lock the crank with.

im talking about silver tops too.

NEEEEEEEED PIIIIIIIIIIICS

anyhow, as for identifying cams, there are 'rings' cast intot he cam shafts, it seems that all the cams have the same number stamped into them, but the rings in different orders identify the cams.

i dont have any pics to show what im on about either, but i think a few years ago on the westfield site it said something about them

 

The crank locking pin is only on the black top engine.

 

i forgot to add that towing the car at 20mph for 1 mile in 1st gear sorted out my problem!!!

the hydralic tappits managed to pump them selves up some how so got my dads tranny van and a tow rope and abused it until it started lol

it poped banged farted then run on 1 cylender then 2 etc...

now it feels like a flying machine compared to how it used to be and uses less fuel